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Hi, i just bough a 92 corvette. The vette was sold because it wasnt cranking. As i have also a 96 camaro, i suspected a VATS problem. When checking ecm it has a code 46 stored. I made a resistor bypass with the correct resistor. Car is not cranking yet but now it is running if i short the starter (engine was dying before VATS bypass). I beleive the past owner made modification to try to make it cranck. Where should check now ??? Code 46 is still on (code H46 but stay here even after ecm reset).
Hi, i just bough a 92 corvette. The vette was sold because it wasnt cranking. As i have also a 96 camaro, i suspected a VATS problem. When checking ecm it has a code 46 stored. I made a resistor bypass with the correct resistor. Car is not cranking yet but now it is running if i short the starter (engine was dying before VATS bypass). I beleive the past owner made modification to try to make it cranck. Where should check now ??? Code 46 is still on (code H46 but stay here even after ecm reset).
Thanks you for our help
An A4 or an M6 car? Maybe the PO has attempted to by-pass the SER Start Enable Relay) in some fashion.
I would load test the battery and clean all connections both ends grounds and positive as well as the cables first.
Welcome to the forum.
No problem on this side. Battery is a new optima red top (dont fit at normal place, just here to mae the car run). It is able to cranck just any V8. For more, if i jump the starter, it starts without any problem.
Start working through the primary starting circuit; ignition>fuse>clutch switch> start relay>solenoid. Maybe not in that exact order...going by memory here.
An A4 or an M6 car? Maybe the PO has attempted to by-pass the SER Start Enable Relay) in some fashion.
the car is an M6. I know the past owner tried to make it run and has probably modified some things without knowing about VATS. The original problem is now found but i need to find the others problems he should have create.
Just 2 pics from under dash :
what is this wire for ? it is unplugged and i can't find what it was supposed to be used for .
this is a view of connectors above brake and clutch pedal. There is something unplugged. Is there any security thing to avoid start from here ?
Past owner told me he jumped the clutch security (but the connector above the pedal is still here), and change a connector on the column (dont remember which one). He also change the steering wheel so there is no more air bag. I would also love to know where is the starter enable relay on this car.
Start working through the primary starting circuit; ignition>fuse>clutch switch> start relay>solenoid. Maybe not in that exact order...going by memory here.
the original problem was VATS. Because of it the car was not running when the guy had it. The problem is they tried "things" to make the car running without knowing about VATS. I took the car and by-pass VATS. The car can now run if you crank it directly from the starter, but it is not cranking from the ignition key. I have to find what other problem has been create when people tried to make the car run
Snapshot #1 is the foot-well light(orange & white) on the knee bolster panel. The connector with the PURPLE is the connector for the clutch switch, the second wire I thought in a '92 should be YELLOW/BLK stripe so if there's anything connected to the other end of the connector it should be the clutch switch.
The clutch switch is now bypassed. The SER make a click when I turn the key. I even tried a new relay. Same cluck but no cranking. It seems power don't go to the solenoid starter now
The clutch switch is now bypassed. The SER make a click when I turn the key. I even tried a new relay. Same cluck but no cranking. It seems power don't go to the solenoid starter now
Sticky solenoid or bad connection to it or cable smack it and see if it starts. If original have it rebuilt.
the past owner told he changed the switch on top on the column. it seems it is not making contact when i turn the key. From the FSM it can be the problem