Oil Pan gasket question
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 74
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From: Bradenton Florida
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
Oil Pan gasket question
I am having a hard time finding good mechanic that is familiar and knows how to change the oil pan gasket and rear main seal on my 94 Vette. They all say they are unfamiliar with the older Vettes and don't want the job, So I said screw it and decided to do it myself. After a lot of research I do have one question that I hope can be answered by someone that has been down this road. I was reluctant to undo the motor mounts and get a chain fall to lift the LT1 engine while i was working under it (I do not have a lift, I usually bock the car up on specially cut wooden 2x12 blocks) I did once hear that this job can be done if the steel frame under the oil pan is removed, which will give access to all the bolts, is this true or fantasy.
I do have all the manuals, tools, (except a tri-pod lift) and a large garage, but at 67 years old I am looking for a better way to change the oil pan gasket and rear main seal myself.
I truly appreciate it if any one that has had a similar problem would share the experience and cure with me.
Thanks
Woody3882@aol.com
I do have all the manuals, tools, (except a tri-pod lift) and a large garage, but at 67 years old I am looking for a better way to change the oil pan gasket and rear main seal myself.
I truly appreciate it if any one that has had a similar problem would share the experience and cure with me.
Thanks
Woody3882@aol.com
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,485
Likes: 566
From: Clearwater Florida
..... I have an 8 quart pan on my '87 and it practically falls off the engine . You do have to remove the 2 brackets that go from the frame to the crossmember and you might need to turn the engine some to get the front crankshaft counterweights up out of the way . Use the blue one piece reuseable pan gasket when you put it back together . The transmission and flywheel have to be removed to change the rear main seal . Make sure your oil leak isn't coming from the oil pressure gauge sender or fuel pump switch on the back of the block before you start pulling trannies .....
Oil Producer
Joined: Apr 2014
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..... I have an 8 quart pan on my '87 and it practically falls off the engine . You do have to remove the 2 brackets that go from the frame to the crossmember and you might need to turn the engine some to get the front crankshaft counterweights up out of the way . Use the blue one piece reuseable pan gasket when you put it back together . The transmission and flywheel have to be removed to change the rear main seal . Make sure your oil leak isn't coming from the oil pressure gauge sender or fuel pump switch on the back of the block before you start pulling trannies .....
i will second this. i do not know if the LT1 is the same as the L98 though.
but i can tell you that no way would i ever pull the engine over the trans. the trans is so easy on these cars. the number of items you would have to disconnect (electrical, cooling, vacuum) in order to pull an L98 ....is crazy....compared to dropping the trans. the only tool you might not have laying around for that job is a wratching 8mm wrench for the driveshaft u joint strap bolts and a flare nut wrench for the trans cooler (can't remember size).
IF you do drop the trans (after verifying its not a ops or rear vc leak, (perhaps you have already pulled th einspection cover)
remember that to drop the drive shaft you will need to rotate the rear wheels. you do one side of the u joint strap, then you rotate the rear wheels (car in neutral) and do the other side.
So if you block the wheels like i normally, this causes a snag because you cant rotate the rear wheels like that. fyi.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2014
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From: Lunenburg MA
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 74
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From: Bradenton Florida
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
..... I have an 8 quart pan on my '87 and it practically falls off the engine . You do have to remove the 2 brackets that go from the frame to the crossmember and you might need to turn the engine some to get the front crankshaft counterweights up out of the way . Use the blue one piece reuseable pan gasket when you put it back together . The transmission and flywheel have to be removed to change the rear main seal . Make sure your oil leak isn't coming from the oil pressure gauge sender or fuel pump switch on the back of the block before you start pulling trannies .....
Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2016
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From: Bradenton Florida
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
If I do remove the remove the 2 brackets that go from the frame to the crossmember as you recommend, doesn't the cross-member still stop me from getting to the pan bolts on the sides ?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,485
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From: Clearwater Florida
..... Not on my rig ... I use 1/4" drive sockets and extensions and even with kick-outs on both sides of the oil pan , I have no problem getting at all the bolts .....
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: St. Charles MO
Ditto this. I was able to get all the bolts off my pan without even raising the engine, and my pan also has road-racing-style kick-outs. I would have to raise the engine to pull the pan all the way out of the car, though. But anyway, I doubt you have to remove the cross-members in questions.
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From: Bradenton Florida
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
I am putting my trust in you, I will try to pull the braces and tackle it that way, but first I an going to check the oil pressure gauge sender and fuel pump switch as you recommended. My leak (one of them) is definitely the oil pan gasket, the other appears to be coming from the center of the fly wheel, only drips when the car is running. Now without sounding foolish, exactly where on the block is the oil pressure gauge sender and fuel pump switch located. I will be blocking the car up and want to do this right.
PS: I have found in the past that the easiest way to rotate the engine is to use a 1/2 inch socket and wratchet on the alternator bolt, much easier than a pry bar on the flywheel, this helped me out when the block was hydro-locked with fuel and oil)
Thanks you have been very helpful, I appreciate it
Woody
PS: I have found in the past that the easiest way to rotate the engine is to use a 1/2 inch socket and wratchet on the alternator bolt, much easier than a pry bar on the flywheel, this helped me out when the block was hydro-locked with fuel and oil)
Thanks you have been very helpful, I appreciate it
Woody
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 74
Likes: 11
From: Bradenton Florida
2017 C4 of Year Finalist
PS: I have found in the past that the easiest way to rotate the engine is to use a 1/2 inch socket and wratchet on the alternator bolt, much easier than a pry bar on the flywheel, this helped me out when the block was hydro-locked with fuel and oil)
Thanks you have been very helpful, I appreciate it
Woody
Race Director
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From: moraga ca
The cross member is way up in front under the very front of the oil pan. It will not impede access to the oil pan bolts. I have done this on jackstands and would suggest this over ramps. You will be able to remove the front wheels which will give you more room to move about. Also as mentioned, you will need to rotate the driveshaft in order to access the rear ujoint bolts. You can't do this with the rear wheels on the ground. I have a Moroso pan and had to lift the front of the motor a half inch or so to get the pan off even after rotating the crank. You probably won't need to do this with a stock pan.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2015
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From: St. Charles MO
That second leak definitely sounds like the rear main, but also check the rear seal of the lifter galley to make sure it isn't leaking up there and dripping down the back of the block.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 196
From: folsom california
I am having a hard time finding good mechanic that is familiar and knows how to change the oil pan gasket and rear main seal on my 94 Vette. They all say they are unfamiliar with the older Vettes and don't want the job, So I said screw it and decided to do it myself. After a lot of research I do have one question that I hope can be answered by someone that has been down this road. I was reluctant to undo the motor mounts and get a chain fall to lift the LT1 engine while i was working under it (I do not have a lift, I usually bock the car up on specially cut wooden 2x12 blocks) I did once hear that this job can be done if the steel frame under the oil pan is removed, which will give access to all the bolts, is this true or fantasy.
I do have all the manuals, tools, (except a tri-pod lift) and a large garage, but at 67 years old I am looking for a better way to change the oil pan gasket and rear main seal myself.
I truly appreciate it if any one that has had a similar problem would share the experience and cure with me.
Thanks
Woody3882@aol.com
I do have all the manuals, tools, (except a tri-pod lift) and a large garage, but at 67 years old I am looking for a better way to change the oil pan gasket and rear main seal myself.
I truly appreciate it if any one that has had a similar problem would share the experience and cure with me.
Thanks
Woody3882@aol.com
The first thing to realize is that pulling the pan is labor intensive but basically simple. undo the nut, one per side, holding the bottom of the engine mount to the car frame. place a large flat piece of wood under the oil pan and jack up the engine an inch or so, place a small piece of wood 3/4 or one inch thick between the bottom of the mount and the frame; lower and remove the jack. Pull pan. Replace gasket.
Now all this can be done by one person with nothing more than a floor jack, and it can be done in steps, over time.
Accessing the rear seal is a completely different story and much more difficult. At a minimum it requires two people . I would seriously consider farming this job out to a shop.
But long before doing that, I'd do the pan gasket, and in the process cleaning the underside of that engine throughly, you will probably discover the source of your oil leak. Only if by then I was absolutely certain that it was the rear oil seal would I consider pulling the transmission.
Last edited by mtwoolford; Feb 6, 2017 at 02:17 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Clearwater Florida
..... As others have said/suggested , you might need to raise your engine a bit to get the pan out , especially if your motor mounts are originals . I have new poly-urethane mounts in mine and do not have to lift the engine at all ... the oil pressure sender and fuel pump switch are fed oil from a passage that comes through on the bell housing flange on the back of the engine , it is left of center (drivers side) and when leaking , the oil path is generally on the drivers side ... another potential source of a leak on the back of the engine is the intake manifold to block seal (China Wall) ... If its oily wet back there , its going to be one of those 3 culprits .....
Last edited by C409; Feb 6, 2017 at 05:14 PM.