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I'm swappingthe motor out in my 94 coupe. I plan on pulling the motor and trans (ZF 6spd) as one unit. Everything is pretty much stripped off the old motor and now I'm to the point of disconnecting the drive shaft from the trans.
1) Is it necessary to remove the entire exhaust system? I can't see another way to get to the drive shaft. What it the best way to remove it if this is necessary? I can't budge the bolts on the passenger side, so it looks like I will have to cut that bracket that holds the cats, on the drivers side I can't even get to the second - lower - bolt, any suggestions? It's clear that these brackets are put on the block before it's dropped in the car as I see no real other way to disconnect them.
2) Once I have access to the drive shaft what then? Do I need to scribe where the drive shaft connects up at both ends so I can put it back like it was when I re-assemble?
3) Finally, what's teh easiest way to lift the block out, I mean connecting up the hoist etc. Based on room, I have to pull the motor out from the front of the car (the hood has to come off obvioulsy) but I was wondering how to go about actually connecting the chain to the block. Other motors I have worked on have had a chunk of metal sticking up with a hole in it where I could run a hook through and lift from there. Any suggestions?
1) Is it necessary to remove the entire exhaust system?
To get to the driveshaft, yes.
2) Once I have access to the drive shaft what then? Do I need to scribe where the drive shaft connects up at both ends so I can put it back like it was when I re-assemble?
It would be best to, but isn't severely important.
3) Finally, what's teh easiest way to lift the block out
I pulled mine out Saturday. I put a bolt through a chain in the driver's side cylinder head where the air pump bracket bolts in and another bolt through the chain on the right-rear intake manifold hold. It is the #12 bolt in the torque pattern on the intake.
I put the hoist about 3 chain links towards the front of the engine from the center of it. I pulled the engine from the side. When I started pulling up on the engine putting hte chain slightly forward made the engine tilt the rear (with bellhousing and clutch on it) downward some. This allowed me to pick it up about 6" and then move it forward a few and then pick it up the rest of the way.
If you have the driveshaft off, the ZF6 is only a couple of bolts away. I would think it is much easier to handle it w/o the tranny. Makes it much easier to NOT hit the windshield.:)
1) Is it necessary to remove the entire exhaust system?
To get to the driveshaft, yes.
And thus I would need to in order to disconnect if from the tranny, right? Or am I going about this all wrong?
I figure I'm going to pull them togeher if only becuase I'm going to end up replacing the clutch as well and I'm going to need the trans out of the car to do it (well, maybe not NEED to, but it sure should make it easier).
My plan was to attach the chain to the block much like you did, but make the run of chain shorter in the front than the rear, so that when I began the actual hoisting it would pull the front up a little bit first, allowing me to tilt it and bring it back and out. We'll see. If I had room to do it from the side I would, but my driveway is too narrow.
And thus I would need to in order to disconnect if from the tranny, right? Or am I going about this all wrong?
Yup. The driveshaft is held onto the differential by four 5/16" strap bolts. Don't forget you will also have to remove the torque beam, that is the nasty bugger. It is two 18mm bolts on the tranny, and two 21mm bolts on the differential. You have to get a socket on the bolt head on the bottom and put a wrench on the top to hold the nut in place as you undo the bolt. Put a jack under the tranny before you do this. After the jack is in place undo those bolts and lower the tranny about 1.5" if you can (should be able to).
Then take a decent size hammer and knock the torque beam backwards onto the differential about 3" if you can. At that point you should be able to knock the front of it towards the passenger side of the car. Then you can take something like a wrecking bar and wedge it down and out of there. It is a bear the first few times you do it.
And thus I would need to in order to disconnect if from the tranny, right? Or am I going about this all wrong?
Yup. The driveshaft is held onto the differential by four 5/16" strap bolts. Don't forget you will also have to remove the torque beam, that is the nasty bugger. It is two 18mm bolts on the tranny, and two 21mm bolts on the differential. You have to get a socket on the bolt head on the bottom and put a wrench on the top to hold the nut in place as you undo the bolt. Put a jack under the tranny before you do this. After the jack is in place undo those bolts and lower the tranny about 1.5" if you can (should be able to).
Then take a decent size hammer and knock the torque beam backwards onto the differential about 3" if you can. At that point you should be able to knock the front of it towards the passenger side of the car. Then you can take something like a wrecking bar and wedge it down and out of there. It is a bear the first few times you do it.
Will I actually need to do that to disconnect it from the transmission given that I am pulling the motor/trans as one unit? Sory Scorp, bear with me, I'm knew at this, don't mean to sound ignunt :)
Also, what is the easiset way to get the exhaust out of the way? I'm having trouble with where it connects up with those two brackets (which are attached to the block). I'm going to try the liquid wrench approah, but do you have any other tips?