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I'm going to be running a T1.1000DL soundstream amp and 2 alpine type s 10's dvc 4 ohm wired to bring down to 1 ohm. Amp is calling for 0 awg wire, would I be ok running a 4 awg kit with ofc wire since I will never be pushing the amp that hard? If I have to ground to the battery then I'll have to buy that wire separate since kits only come with 3 ft of ground.
I'm going to be running a T1.1000DL soundstream amp and 2 alpine type s 10's dvc 4 ohm wired to bring down to 1 ohm. Amp is calling for 0 awg wire, would I be ok running a 4 awg kit with ofc wire since I will never be pushing the amp that hard? If I have to ground to the battery then I'll have to buy that wire separate since kits only come with 3 ft of ground.
Protect the wire with the proper size fuse and it will be fine. If you overdrive you will simply pop the fuse.
Personally I would spend the money and buy the wire.
Don't bother with a capacitor. It's just one more thing to drain your battery, it's not going to help with anything other than lightening your wallet. This has been proven over and over again.
As was noted, you fuse a wire to protect the wire, not the amplifier. This is so your car doesn't catch on fire. According to the linked BCAE page, 1/0 can handle ~330 amps, and 4 awg can handle about 130 amps for a 15 ft run. So you just need to provide adequate current for the amp. This isn't as easy as just totaling up the fuses on the amplifier, as on peaks you can easily draw more than the fuse rating. However, unless you are burping your system, and depending on how you actually listen to music that could be moot anyways.
In your scenario a 200-300 amp fuse on 1/0 should be fine.
You shouldn't have to run a ground all the way back to the battery. The car has plenty of metal in the bird cage to act as a ground path.
Can you verify your amp model number? The closest thing I found was the T1.4000 which has 5-35 amp fuses.
If the amp you're using has 6-35 amp fuses, and is rated at 2000+ watts into 1 ohm, I'm wondering why you feel like you need to run it that way. Those subs have a 500 watt Power handling which is probably a little bit of a stretch, and you'll be way overpowering them. Have you already purchased the gear? Seems to me like you can get by with a smaller amplifier which would also mean smaller wiring.
For OFC wire I usually use Knukonceptz Kolusus Fleks or welding cable, and for this kind of current I wouldn't use CCA.
It's a t1.4000DL. Class D monoblock 4000 watts max . The amp can be returned. I can get something else, I've never used sound stream amps or alpine subs so I was wanting something different. I run jl audio subs and a Rockford prime amp in my truck. I could drop down to something around 1200 rms , maybe 2 channel amp ran at 2 ohm or something like that
It's a 95
Head unit was in it when I bought it, it's a Jensen DVD touch screen with back up camera, surprised it doesn't skip or anything, actually doesn't sound bad lol so I thought I'd use it
Components have a separate tweeter and midrange. Typically they come with a passive crossover to filter the correct frequencies to each driver.
Of the brands you listed, the only one I would avoid at all costs would be Hifonics. Used to be good, but the company changed hands and it's pretty much a bottom of the barrel brand these days along the lines of Boss or Pyle.
Sundown makes really nice gear. You won't be disappointed in anything that Jacob sells. Great customer service, and well built product.
If you could give me a budget I could put together a system for you with matched components.
Since you have a head unit that should work and has adequate preamp out puts I'd recommend you replace the interior speakers, amplifiy them, and get a single high output subwoofer with it's own amplifier as well. The Vette's cabin is so small you should have no problem getting infrasonic bass with a good high excursion 10 or 12" subwoofer.
Amp wire ?
