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With any of these kits you may want a little more wire for the amplifier grounds, depending on where you decide to locate them. but like I said, there's plenty of metal to ground to on the car.
If it were my car I'd abandon rear speakers and focus on getting the best speakers and installation in my front locations.
Right now in my car I have an older set of kicker resolution 4" components (circa 2000) in the stock locations run active off of a ppi atom (I don't recommend this amp) and a pair of 8 inch subs in the rear speaker locations off a bridged ppi atom 4 channel. It gets plenty loud
Are you familiar with how active crossovers work? A nice set of raw drivers an be had for about the price of a low-mid end component set.
Last edited by daverulz; Mar 16, 2017 at 02:12 PM.
Beware that frames are generally not adequately grounded back to the battery (-) to carry high amperage loads. The battery cable is connected to the engine block, and other grounds are connected to the block. The engine is mounted in rubber, any ground paths into the frame will be through shifter cables, and perhaps a small gauge jumper. (I don't know where this jumper is on a C4, but there probably is one). The frame doesn't carry any current other than incidental lighting or perhaps the fuel pump that is grounded to the frame and back to the block through the small jumper mentioned.
If you do use the frame for carrying high-load currents, install a large-gauge or braided ground strap between an engine mount bolt on the block, and the front cross-member.
Good info. I didn't realize that the battery was not grounded to the frame, as is traditional (at least on the other cars I've worked on.) Easily solved as described above or with an additional ground on the battery to the frame.
Quick research lead me here. Which is an older car, but most likely very similar. Upgrade G101 and you are good to go. Man that is a tiny ground! http://home.earthlink.net/~cliff_har...s/grounds.html
Last edited by daverulz; Mar 16, 2017 at 02:21 PM.
Most of what I see there is either garbage (lightening audio, audiobahn, etc) or does not represent a very good value because it is a high end brand (Morel, Focal, etc)
The mid-level brands (pioneer, alpine, polk, etc) just don't make 4" components because there isn't much of a market for them anymore. The high end brands DO make them because they are usually used in a 3 way component set that incorporates a midbass as well as in a 2 way set that does not, often with the same crossover.
There are options. That being said, there will be some fabrication necessary, because from my recollection the bose speakers/enclosures have a funky shape. Some form of adapter will be needed.
I guess i never asked, is the car Bose or not. I think the enclosures are different.
Here's a bose enclosure:
and you can see here that there is maybe a different enclosure used for the base system - also a good link to figure out what you're getting yourself into.
I guess I also have another option, I built my sub box for the alpine, I was thinking maybe I could add a section on the front of the box extending up to put a set of 5 1/4 components between the seats
After looking at the link of the install and modifications to the pillar speaker housings I can make those for 5 1/4's . Where he used the 3/4 mdf to make a plate and attached to the inside, could also do the same for the rear. I watched the amp synopsis video on the ppi 1000.1 and seems to be underrated which is good, I wanted something rated for more than my subs.
Last edited by Shanes1031; Mar 17, 2017 at 05:07 AM.
This means you will have more complicated modifications to make than the link showed in ordrer to fit 5.25 speakers. The front of the bose enclosure is not flat.
Would the alpine s be good in a sealed encloser with .61 cubic feet per chamber with the ppi 1000
Yes, that is about perfect for those subs based on what the manual says.
I guess I also have another option, I built my sub box for the alpine, I was thinking maybe I could add a section on the front of the box extending up to put a set of 5 1/4 components between the seats
From a sound quality standpoint, this is a bad idea. You want the majority of the frequency range coming coming from in front of you. The lower frequencies are more omnidirectional, so it is less important they be in front of you, but you want the rest to originate in front.
I did find some focal 4 inch components for 229.00 model 100A1 SG
I saw these as well. The low end of most high end brands are so-so in terms of sound. They are not a good value (you're paying for the name)
After looking at the link of the install and modifications to the pillar speaker housings I can make those for 5 1/4's . Where he used the 3/4 mdf to make a plate and attached to the inside, could also do the same for the rear.
Yeah, the mods aren't hard, but the problem is you have bose enclosures, which are different than what he was working with.
I watched the amp synopsis video on the ppi 1000.1 and seems to be underrated which is good, I wanted something rated for more than my subs.
Headroom is a good thing, but when we're talking about 1000 watts, a couple extra hundred here or there is not going to make a difference in sound (you have to double amplifier power in order to get a 3db increase in volume).
I don't really want to make a solid recommendation on the front speakers as there are just so many options! Also this is the most important part to your ears. Bass/midbass is easy, but the rest is much more dependent on your personal preferences. But here is what I can say:
I have read very good reviews on the Morel Maximos. But that was back when you could pick up a set for 80 bucks, not 180 and the expectations might have been different based on the price.
Polk dB's are a decent choice, I was pleased with the sound when I heard them, and they are really cheap.
I've heard nothing but bad things about alpine's type-r. They don't make a type S 5.25
The JL C2 might be worth looking at, the price seems right. The c3's are quite a step up in price.
I've heard nothing but good things about the Hybrid Imagines, but that might stretch you budget a little far if you want to have speakers in the back. If I had to recommend front speakers, it would be these as I don't think it's possible to be disappointed in them other than the price. https://audiointensity.com/collectio...iant=958192319
Last edited by daverulz; Mar 17, 2017 at 10:02 AM.
Thank you, I'll check out some of the brands and see what I can come up and run them by you and see what your opinion is. Is there any pics of the Bose modification or what they look like
Ok I would go with the 2 ppi amps you mentioned, the 1000.1 and the 900.4 and Polk db 402 and Polk db 652. I think I will have to run a 0 awg power wire and then split to maybe 4 awg.
Ok I would go with the 2 ppi amps you mentioned, the 1000.1 and the 900.4 and Polk db 402 and Polk db 652. I think I will have to run a 0 awg power wire and then split to maybe 4 awg.
I think those amps will make you happy. Use the Knukonceptz kits. You can either run 1/0 split to 4awg or you can run 2 runs of 4 awg. Either will work fine. Probably about the same price at the end of the day. Make sure you upgrade the battery ground (or even do the whole big 3) as noted earlier.
I decided on the 402 set since I'm not sure of the modification that would need to be done
You will have to modify the bose boxes no matter what you put in there. The stock speakers have a wierd triangular flange that NO aftermarket speaker will fit. You have to cut an adapter no matter what.
Hey Daverulz I went to a car audio shop yesterday to get a price on running all the wires , estimated $350 that includes running 0 awg wire, it's pure copper wire made by fosgate, installing the amps and speakers, making the modifications to the factory speaker locations , putting 5.25 components in the kick panels, all the wire and rca's , setting up the amps. I don't think that sounds too bad of a price. They are known for a lot of competition systems here. Then an alarm for 249.00 installed
Hey Daverulz I went to a car audio shop yesterday to get a price on running all the wires , estimated $350 that includes running 0 awg wire, it's pure copper wire made by fosgate, installing the amps and speakers, making the modifications to the factory speaker locations , putting 5.25 components in the kick panels, all the wire and rca's , setting up the amps. I don't think that sounds too bad of a price. They are known for a lot of competition systems here. Then an alarm for 249.00 installed
Is that including the wire, or you provide everything? Either way not bad. I never pay to have work done, but that seems reasonable to me. I'd get as much detail about what they're going to do before I let them go at it though.
I was out in my car the other day and snapped a picture of the adapters I had to make for the front enclosures to get the 4" components to fit in the bose enclosures. They are made from 1/4" MDF.
