Rearend advice
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
Here is some parts, including his, well Ikerds parts, that they sell. 1200 dollars in difference is quite a bit.
http://www.mcssl.com/store/ikerds-in...55231a8cd08019
http://www.mcssl.com/store/ikerds-in...erential-parts
http://www.mcssl.com/store/ikerds-in...55231a8cd08019
http://www.mcssl.com/store/ikerds-in...erential-parts
D44 $1295
D44 Core Charge $1500
Rear Cover $350
C Beam $150
How much is that?
Now how much did I say in putting in a D44?
All of these prices are from Ikerds, assuming you can still get some of them.
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
So you could buy a used one cheaper at Carlisle or ebay or Craigslist. If you do this, buy one that does not need to be rebuilt but try for low mileage wreck. Now with wrecks you have to be careful because with most of them the front of the bolt holes on the diffs are torn out. You can weld these, but it is expensive. If you have to rebuild it, then you may want to just spend the money and send it off, if you mess up the rebuild you are out way more than what the D36 would have ever cost. These are around used, they are just not plentiful. If you wait for a swap meet and are patient you will find one.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 17,062
Likes: 166
From: United States
Just to trying show you dont have to buy at some places, so as a forum member that has been screwed by some companies and people, I will shop around , okay Ziippy. Several thousand is stretching it a bit, was my point. Couple thousand with some shopping, as you can find bat wings, driveshafts, pumpkins, etc far cheaper, and even rebuilding a D44 isnt rocket science, and many have had them done far cheaper than some places..
Shopping around as a modifier, hot rodder etc is how most people do it, and I was just trying to help by pointing out some newer numbers on available prices.
Ignore list is a nice feature. Try it.
ps, I noticed someones batwings for D44 are now 995.00, hmmm...
Shopping around as a modifier, hot rodder etc is how most people do it, and I was just trying to help by pointing out some newer numbers on available prices.
Ignore list is a nice feature. Try it.
ps, I noticed someones batwings for D44 are now 995.00, hmmm...
Last edited by krackenvette; Mar 21, 2017 at 11:28 PM.
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
Just to trying show you dont have to buy at some places, so as a forum member that has been screwed by some companies and people, I will shop around , okay Ziippy. Several thousand is stretching it a bit, was my point. Couple thousand with some shopping, as you can find bat wings, driveshafts, pumpkins, etc far cheaper, and even rebuilding a D44 isnt rocket science, and many have had them done far cheaper than some places..
Shopping around as a modifier, hot rodder etc is how most people do it, and I was just trying to help by pointing out some newer numbers on available prices.
Ignore list is a nice feature. Try it.
ps, I noticed someones batwings for D44 are now 995.00, hmmm...
Shopping around as a modifier, hot rodder etc is how most people do it, and I was just trying to help by pointing out some newer numbers on available prices.
Ignore list is a nice feature. Try it.
ps, I noticed someones batwings for D44 are now 995.00, hmmm...
Actaully rebuilding any diff is not rocket science, but if you don't get the case spread correctly with aluminum main caps and you break one, which is what will happen, you will be buying another D44. Which is why I said you should not attempt if you do not do build these. Don't know who you had issues with, but believe it or not most of the companies are not out here to rip you off. You should be accountable for you what you are responsible and that is on both sides. What ever wrong has been done to you, you can imagine we 1000 fold of it, you know customer trying to take advantage of us, so it goes both ways.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
Likes: 12
From: Seattle Wa
Ok, lets put this to rest. I really had a max cap of $1100. I have made some calls, both looking for a d44 with gears, (pretty much was laughed at) and checking prices at a couple local shops. Everyone told me the same thing. $600 for labor, $400+ for gears, and $250 for a master rebuild kit. Thats me pulling it, and bringing it in. Ive been saving for about 6mos, so my patience is worn thin, and talking to all these poor customer service people, and after almost losing all my cash to a con man, today Ive had enough! I pulled the trigger on Zips d36 with 3.54. $899, and $80 for shipping. Thank you everyone for all the advice! h
http://www.zip-corvette.com/84-96-3-...l-rebuilt.html
http://www.zip-corvette.com/84-96-3-...l-rebuilt.html
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 17,062
Likes: 166
From: United States
Ok, lets put this to rest. I really had a max cap of $1100. I have made some calls, both looking for a d44 with gears, (pretty much was laughed at) and checking prices at a couple local shops. Everyone told me the same thing. $600 for labor, $400+ for gears, and $250 for a master rebuild kit. Thats me pulling it, and bringing it in. Ive been saving for about 6mos, so my patience is worn thin, and talking to all these poor customer service people, and after almost losing all my cash to a con man, today Ive had enough! I pulled the trigger on Zips d36 with 3.54. $899, and $80 for shipping. Thank you everyone for all the advice! h
http://www.zip-corvette.com/84-96-3-...l-rebuilt.html
http://www.zip-corvette.com/84-96-3-...l-rebuilt.html
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 234
Likes: 20
From: Stuart Florida
Ok, lets put this to rest. I really had a max cap of $1100. I have made some calls, both looking for a d44 with gears, (pretty much was laughed at) and checking prices at a couple local shops. Everyone told me the same thing. $600 for labor, $400+ for gears, and $250 for a master rebuild kit. Thats me pulling it, and bringing it in. Ive been saving for about 6mos, so my patience is worn thin, and talking to all these poor customer service people, and after almost losing all my cash to a con man, today Ive had enough! I pulled the trigger on Zips d36 with 3.54. $899, and $80 for shipping. Thank you everyone for all the advice! h
http://www.zip-corvette.com/84-96-3-...l-rebuilt.html
http://www.zip-corvette.com/84-96-3-...l-rebuilt.html
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary
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Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,381
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I'm in the same predicament. I have a 1994 with an Lloyd Elliot LE2 build. Dana 36 with 3.07 and a 4A. I have the opportunity to buy a D44 with 3.07 and batwing for $1000 that I would have to change gears to 3.73$$$, then I would need a c beam and driveshaft$$$.
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary
The 3.07 could be assumed to be an '88 or earlier build so why even consider at the price? Your car drives so you wait!
I'd think maybe you shop a 3.54 and start there. Maybe the additional gear you "hint" needing is foolish! Maybe even the later 3.45 build for a start!
Before an install if this is a DIY maybe you just do a clutch pack or for sure check - I'd think the 6 bearing service could be avoided - 3 seals for sure. Much depends on what you know about the rear and inspection.
Your D36 is very salable and maybe would command a higher price when it came to resale because it's drive-able and can be 'road-tested' - you spend the money to do a gear in it and regardless it's still a D36 and now you've got likely another $600+ invested.
Platinum Supporting Vendor
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 3,665
Likes: 341
I'm in the same predicament. I have a 1994 with an Lloyd Elliot LE2 build. Dana 36 with 3.07 and a 4A. I have the opportunity to buy a D44 with 3.07 and batwing for $1000 that I would have to change gears to 3.73$$$, then I would need a c beam and driveshaft$$$.
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 7,708
Likes: 266
From: indy indiana
There is a complete 44,rotor to rotor , on Indy craig list. I believe its located just south of Chicago, in Indiana. This is just for general info in case someone is in that area. Lord knows what shipping would be.
Last edited by ghoastrider1; Mar 22, 2017 at 12:40 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 7
From: Fort Ripley Minnesota
Our differential is fully rebuilt, we install all new bearings, seals, clutch pack and gears. Everything is cleaned and inspected. The diff looks brand new when you get it, you really would have no clue that the housing is a used housing. As far as a 44, no doubt you cant go wrong with a 44. Getting one for under a grand, probably not going to happen. Using a D36 cover on a D44, very bad idea. You will need a D44 rear cover and C beam as well. The D44 c beam is a little wider at the the diff and you need the extra support. The driveshaft is also a 1/4 shorter, but you can shorten yours. Hope this helps
I have a D36 with destroyed spider gears. If you have spider gears available I would buy a few sets from you.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 7
From: Fort Ripley Minnesota
I'm in the same predicament. I have a 1994 with an Lloyd Elliot LE2 build. Dana 36 with 3.07 and a 4A. I have the opportunity to buy a D44 with 3.07 and batwing for $1000 that I would have to change gears to 3.73$$$, then I would need a c beam and driveshaft$$$.
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary
Plus all the added labor to switch out to the Dana 44. Now for the question:I know the Dana44 is much stronger. But for those of us that only do street driving, an occasional burnout (with an auto and 3000stall converter, no clutch dropping at 5000rpm) is it necessary? How many of you actually know of someone who has grenaded their Dana 36 and what were the circumstances? Thanks Gary
I ran my D36 on the drag strip with DOT slicks for awhile ( half season)until the spiders gears became smooth and chunky. At that time I had 295 Hp at the wheels.
Currently I have 385 Hp at the wheels with a D44, which is holding up very well Knock on Wood. I re-build / adjust the clutchs each winter. I will suggest that more poeple install and rebuild their D36's, that way there will be more D44's for me..
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 3,556
Likes: 1,097
From: Ex DPRK, now just N of Medford, OR
The ship for just a differential ain't no big thing - I use a tote anymore because it's easy to pack and secure the differential, I can be reasonably sure that because it has handles it ain't going to be tossed around and dropped because someone didn't realize it's weight.
- WVZR-1
Saw a great trick used for shipping Porsche transaxles... Get a large Ice chest. Super strong, and double walled. Probably work great for the diff, transaxle size was ~$100.
- WVZR-1
Saw a great trick used for shipping Porsche transaxles... Get a large Ice chest. Super strong, and double walled. Probably work great for the diff, transaxle size was ~$100.