Rearend advice
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Seattle Wa
Rearend advice
I'm looking to upgrade my 36 gears, and do a basic rebuild. I've gotten quotes locally, and have looked online, and have pretty much decided on going with a complete assembly. My questions are, who is the most reliable source. I have been screwed on online purchases before, and now I'm very leary. In fact I already came close to giving corvettepartsonline.net my money, until I did some research on the business itself. Dodged that bullet! Also the often asked question of 3.5s, or 3.7s? I would really like to hear some real world experience, from actual users. This is where everyone tells me to get a 44, but I really am limited on my upgrade, so that's not going to happen. Also I don't beat on my cars, just some spirited driving, so the 44 isn't necessary. Thanks in advance. Also I have read every story I can find on the subject. So if you're answer is, do a search, I already have, thanks h
Last edited by hemivett; Mar 17, 2017 at 06:40 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Clearwater Florida
..... Starting with your existing Dana 36 , a new ring and pinion , posi clutches , and professional set-up will cost you around $700-$1000 depending on where you source your parts and gear shop ... you get new critical stuff ... buying a used Dana 44 with 3.07 or 3.45 gears will cost about the same $$$ ... Buying a used Dana 36 with 3.07 (most commonly available) 3.54 or 3.73 gears will cost you somewhere between $300-$700 ... if you have time to shop (read patience) , you might find better deals on any of the above ... with all but the first choice , you retain the residual value of your original 2.59 Dana 36 to sell or put on the shelf ... If you're not drag racing with slicks , the used D36 would be your most economical choice ... the D36 is not made of glass and will take a lot of abuse .....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,482
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From: folsom california
this can't be that hard; it's just a differential.
in the Seattle area there has to be any of a number of shops that can rebuild a rear end...Dana's are used quite a bit in other cars besides vettes; call around, tell 'em what you have and see what they can do for you; Jeeps use Dana's, so as crazy as it seems, might start with some shops catering to off road vehicles, and there must be a ton of those in your area.
pull the diff yourself, take it to the shop and put it on their bench...the labor to rebuild the diff, once out of the car, has to be a small portion of the cost of pulling and reinstalling the diff out of and into the car...you'll see what I mean. Good luck.
P.S. I see that you already have gotten local quotes...may I ask what the $$$ range was, and was that for the diff in or out of the car?
in the Seattle area there has to be any of a number of shops that can rebuild a rear end...Dana's are used quite a bit in other cars besides vettes; call around, tell 'em what you have and see what they can do for you; Jeeps use Dana's, so as crazy as it seems, might start with some shops catering to off road vehicles, and there must be a ton of those in your area.
pull the diff yourself, take it to the shop and put it on their bench...the labor to rebuild the diff, once out of the car, has to be a small portion of the cost of pulling and reinstalling the diff out of and into the car...you'll see what I mean. Good luck.
P.S. I see that you already have gotten local quotes...may I ask what the $$$ range was, and was that for the diff in or out of the car?
Last edited by mtwoolford; Mar 17, 2017 at 11:39 AM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
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From: Seattle Wa
this can't be that hard; it's just a differential.
in the Seattle area there has to be any of a number of shops that can rebuild a rear end...Dana's are used quite a bit in other cars besides vettes; call around, tell 'em what you have and see what they can do for you; Jeeps use Dana's, so as crazy as it seems, might start with some shops catering to off road vehicles, and there must be a ton of those in your area.
pull the diff yourself, take it to the shop and put it on their bench...the labor to rebuild the diff, once out of the car, has to be a small portion of the cost of pulling and reinstalling the diff out of and into the car...you'll see what I mean. Good luck.
P.S. I see that you already have gotten local quotes...may I ask what the $$$ range was, and was that for the diff in or out of the car?
in the Seattle area there has to be any of a number of shops that can rebuild a rear end...Dana's are used quite a bit in other cars besides vettes; call around, tell 'em what you have and see what they can do for you; Jeeps use Dana's, so as crazy as it seems, might start with some shops catering to off road vehicles, and there must be a ton of those in your area.
pull the diff yourself, take it to the shop and put it on their bench...the labor to rebuild the diff, once out of the car, has to be a small portion of the cost of pulling and reinstalling the diff out of and into the car...you'll see what I mean. Good luck.
P.S. I see that you already have gotten local quotes...may I ask what the $$$ range was, and was that for the diff in or out of the car?
So far my research is pointing me to Zip. They want $999 for a completely rebuilt 3.54 pumpkin. h
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 4,017
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From: Poughkeepsie New York
Originally Posted by hemivett
2.59s now. Not a lot of mods. Heads have been port matched, 1.6 rr, and emission delete. Will be adding a cam, and exhaust. h
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Seattle Wa
Just got a quote from Zip for $900, for 3.54 completely rebuilt. they also said they are going to see about doing a flat rate on shipping, so that doesnt kill me. So far they are in the lead! h
Racer
Joined: Jul 2016
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Boy thats a great deal! Ive hit all the major sites, local, and foreign, and I havent found anything in that range. Plus I have been screwed so many times by internet purchases, Im afraid to buy someone elses headache.
Just got a quote from Zip for $900, for 3.54 completely rebuilt. they also said they are going to see about doing a flat rate on shipping, so that doesnt kill me. So far they are in the lead! h
Just got a quote from Zip for $900, for 3.54 completely rebuilt. they also said they are going to see about doing a flat rate on shipping, so that doesnt kill me. So far they are in the lead! h
I know you already stated you want to keep the Dana 36 but if your going to be paying $900 for a D36 with 3.54, personally I would go with a used D44 with the same ratio for less money.
As long as it wasn't brutally beaten on and the gear mesh is good, your good to go. If your dead set on a D36 I would go with the rebuilt unit. For that $900 are you getting a new pumpkin or do you need to give them yours as a core?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 140
Likes: 7
From: Fort Ripley Minnesota
I'm looking to upgrade my 36 gears, and do a basic rebuild. I've gotten quotes locally, and have looked online, and have pretty much decided on going with a complete assembly. My questions are, who is the most reliable source. I have been screwed on online purchases before, and now I'm very leary. In fact I already came close to giving corvettepartsonline.net my money, until I did some research on the business itself. Dodged that bullet! Also the often asked question of 3.5s, or 3.7s? I would really like to hear some real world experience, from actual users. This is where everyone tells me to get a 44, but I really am limited on my upgrade, so that's not going to happen. Also I don't beat on my cars, just some spirited driving, so the 44 isn't necessary. Thanks in advance. Also I have read every story I can find on the subject. So if you're answer is, do a search, I already have, thanks h
Good luck, 44 or BUST
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
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From: Seattle Wa
I'm not opposed to switching to a 44 for the same price. If someone knows of one in that price range, let me know! The best I can find is the one on ebay for $999, that has a bent batwing. So add another 600 for that, (1 on ebay) + c beam, drive line, and halfshafts.
So ya, if anyone knows of a 44, with 3.45s, for under a grand. I have the cash in hand! Thanks, h
So ya, if anyone knows of a 44, with 3.45s, for under a grand. I have the cash in hand! Thanks, h
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2017
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From: Tacoma WA
2024 C4 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Have you tried Gundies Salvage yard in Bellingham, WA? They have a number of Corvettes that they salvage and they may have a used one that would be a less expensive option. I called recently and they had a number of 89-94 Vettes in, just not what I was looking for at the time.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Seattle Wa
Have you tried Gundies Salvage yard in Bellingham, WA? They have a number of Corvettes that they salvage and they may have a used one that would be a less expensive option. I called recently and they had a number of 89-94 Vettes in, just not what I was looking for at the time.
Team Owner
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OP - If the snapshots that you've posted are of 'your car' and you hint they are then the 'maybe' additional expense is justified and establishes a much stronger resale of the car. The hardware in the snapshots and a D36 is still a D36 BUT when it's partnered with a D44 then there's substantially more 'assumed' value.
The D44 also enables you a likely much less expensive change of ratio and more variety if you wanted.
The car drives so you're not rushed! Maybe you pay more and hold out for a 3.33 or maybe a 3.07 vs a 3.45 or 3.54. With the D44 you've also got 3.90, 4.10. and more.
The D44 also enables you a likely much less expensive change of ratio and more variety if you wanted.
The car drives so you're not rushed! Maybe you pay more and hold out for a 3.33 or maybe a 3.07 vs a 3.45 or 3.54. With the D44 you've also got 3.90, 4.10. and more.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 610
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From: Seattle Wa
OP - If the snapshots that you've posted are of 'your car' and you hint they are then the 'maybe' additional expense is justified and establishes a much stronger resale of the car. The hardware in the snapshots and a D36 is still a D36 BUT when it's partnered with a D44 then there's substantially more 'assumed' value.
The D44 also enables you a likely much less expensive change of ratio and more variety if you wanted.
The car drives so you're not rushed! Maybe you pay more and hold out for a 3.33 or maybe a 3.07 vs a 3.45 or 3.54. With the D44 you've also got 3.90, 4.10. and more.
The D44 also enables you a likely much less expensive change of ratio and more variety if you wanted.
The car drives so you're not rushed! Maybe you pay more and hold out for a 3.33 or maybe a 3.07 vs a 3.45 or 3.54. With the D44 you've also got 3.90, 4.10. and more.
This is the car I use for autox, and one of the reasons why I don't need to build the **** out of my convertible. Just want to make it more fun to drive. The car is in probably the best condition I've seen a C4. No squeeks, or rattles, and all original. It was a garage queen in one of our rich neighborhoods, so I'm trying to keep it as original as possible.
But like I said, if anyone wants to point me to a 44 with 3.45s, for a reasonable price, (under $1500) I'll take it. h
Team Owner
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The D44 regardless of ratio choice does way more for the car than anyone's "reman/rebuilt" D36
What does the $999 D36 build assure you? What parts are 'for sure' new, what brand and warranty! Is there a new clutch pack OR just what they say is satisfactory and did they actually check? Have they given you any assurance that it will be 'quiet' - have they told you they've confirmed clutch-pack break-away? Does the build include short-axles? There's much to ask and confirm.
The ship for just a differential ain't no big thing - I use a tote anymore because it's easy to pack and secure the differential, I can be reasonably sure that because it has handles it ain't going to be tossed around and dropped because someone didn't realize it's weight.