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Bosch pinks are the correct injector for an 86 and later (22lb come out of an 02-04 Mustang GT 2V GT). The orange,yellow, and blue tops are technically wrong for this application. Don't know why they throw them in but they do.
not sure you can go strictly by color on this one. different part numbers for different applications. FWIW, I've bought 3 sets for aluminum head L98's from FIC - all three sets were yellow and according to Jon, 22 pound injectors, and correct for the AL head L98's. for my 85, blue, 24 pound injectors from FIC. have to say, I put my trust in Jon on this one.
not sure you can go strictly by color on this one. different part numbers for different applications. FWIW, I've bought 3 sets for aluminum head L98's from FIC - all three sets were yellow and according to Jon, 22 pound injectors, and correct for the AL head L98's. for my 85, blue, 24 pound injectors from FIC. have to say, I put my trust in Jon on this one.
You can do/trust, whoever/whatever you want. I'm telling folks where they can get take out 22lb injectors cheap. The 02-04 2V Mustang GT has them OE (and they are pink tops). You can call Ford,Bosch,Nippondenso, and Jon. They are all over as take outs. I pay $60-$100 for near new sets of 8.
You want to pay more that's your business.
Sometimes it is about cost. If a set of 22 goes for 200 and 24 goes for 160 because it is more popular, I'd get 24 to save 40 because I know that the ECM will compensate
I have found them for as low as $60 at the Ford swap meets. Its about knowing what they came in OE and where to find them. Your paying to much for 24lb injectors at $160. Can be bought for $80-$100 or less.
Lucas, bought my 86 with them n read they were dealer replacements at one point.
Interesting to know that. When I bought my 86 C4 in Feb. I noticed someone had taken the Multics out and replaced them with Lucas injectors at one point.
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St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by aklim
Sometimes it is about cost. If a set of 22 goes for 200 and 24 goes for 160 because it is more popular, I'd get 24 to save 40 because I know that the ECM will compensate
These were new take-offs and sold on fleabhey for $150.
I only mentioned the iron head as many seem to think there is a difference.
I'd think that once the coil insulation is eaten it will lose resistance but it is going to be all or nothing, I think. Just toss it prophylactically.
I ask because when cold, the engine starts immediately. After its warm and I get back in its much longer crank time and sometimes 2 -3 separate times turning the key, then it will fire. It also idles a bit rougher than I think it should. I havent had the chance to do a proper tune up yet, so I havent counted out the basics, but it seems more like its temperature & fuel related. Runs really good otherwise and seems responsive with decent power....
These were new take-offs and sold on fleabhey for $150.
I only mentioned the iron head as many seem to think there is a difference.
Depends on who does it, I suppose. If it is a reputable company selling take offs, sure. Someone who told me it was a take off from his 100 mile car, nope. It would have to be way lower for me to take a chance.
I ask because when cold, the engine starts immediately. After its warm and I get back in its much longer crank time and sometimes 2 -3 separate times turning the key, then it will fire. It also idles a bit rougher than I think it should. I havent had the chance to do a proper tune up yet, so I havent counted out the basics, but it seems more like its temperature & fuel related. Runs really good otherwise and seems responsive with decent power....
Hard to say. Without testing, who knows. Also just because the coil is good doesn't mean it is good. For instance, I could cut off the tip and it would still register good with an Ohm test which is why I think it is misleading at best. The pintle gets clogged from time to time. I lose some flow based on test results off a test bench when comparing the before and the after flow rate. Kinda why I either test on a bench or forget it. I had another car pick up 1.5 mpg after cleaning the injectors. Before the cleaning, the car "runs good" too.
In your case, do the basics first. Test plug wires for leaks, cap and rotor, plugs. After that, fuel pressure. After that, check and see if the ECM sees the same temperature as an infra red thermometer on the ECT sensor.
Either way, the injectors are old and will have some clogging for sure. So, for the cost of cleaning and testing, why not get a set already done and toss the multecs away? Sooner or later they will be eaten up by the ethanol. If they are not Multecs and are stock size, might as well get a cleaned and tested set.
Either way, the injectors are old and will have some clogging for sure. So, for the cost of cleaning and testing, why not get a set already done and toss the multecs away? Sooner or later they will be eaten up by the ethanol.
Kind of my thinking as well... I might just start gathering up tune up parts, injectors and the gaskets to get ready for the job... just get it all done at once.
Kind of my thinking as well... I might just start gathering up tune up parts, injectors and the gaskets to get ready for the job... just get it all done at once.
if you're looking to upgrade to boschIII's (third design), it's probably about the same price buying a cleaned/rebuilt, replacement set vs having yours cleaned and tested. seems to me, cleaning and testing is about $22 per injector. that times 8, with two way shipping. compare the overall cost to a replacement set. personally, I'd just buy another set. go to FIC on-line or give Jon a call -
if you're looking to upgrade to boschIII's (third design), it's probably about the same price buying a cleaned/rebuilt, replacement set vs having yours cleaned and tested. seems to me, cleaning and testing is about $22 per injector. that times 8, with two way shipping. compare the overall cost to a replacement set. personally, I'd just buy another set. go to FIC on-line or give Jon a call -
Corp. For stock size, that is fine. I have 42 pph so it is more complicated