Knock sensor modification?
#1
Instructor
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Knock sensor modification?
A GM tech told me about using brass hardware to move out the knock sensor from the block to correct problems with false knock. I know I've seen this discussed but I was curious if anyone has seen this first hand and if it actually worked?? It sounded a little "bubba" but once I heard it was a fix used by dealers back then it made me curious.
#2
Safety Car
Scroll to post 11. The author is a reputable Corvette authority.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...deadening.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...deadening.html
#3
Instructor
A GM tech told me about using brass hardware to move out the knock sensor from the block to correct problems with false knock. I know I've seen this discussed but I was curious if anyone has seen this first hand and if it actually worked?? It sounded a little "bubba" but once I heard it was a fix used by dealers back then it made me curious.
#4
Scroll to post 11. The author is a reputable Corvette authority.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...deadening.html
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...deadening.html
Originally Posted by Hib Halverson
There is *no* safe solution to the problem of false knock stemming from an increase in valve train noise broght on by a camshaft that is more aggressive than production cams *other than* using gasoline of higher octane than can be typically found from most sources.
Last edited by dorri732; 05-02-2017 at 02:18 PM. Reason: spelling
#5
Melting Slicks
Not sure about moving the ks away from the block, but I believe that the knock sensors are specific to each engine, so if you might have just picked up one off the shelf, or from a parts guy who didn't need to look it up, you might have the wrong one, and that might be an issue. Just cause it fits doesn't mean it's right. My $.02.
#6
Race Director
I'm using an LT4 knock module in my heads/cam/headers 94 LT1, and no false knock.
For those that don't know the LT4 knock module can only be used in 94-96's.
For those that don't know the LT4 knock module can only be used in 94-96's.
#7
Burning Brakes
I was told by a corvette tech, when I did a coolant flush and got LT4 knock sensors, that I should use the LT1 sensors sense that is what belongs in the car,(94 LT1) he said LT4 are less tolerant to knock, so I sent the LT4 sensors back and got the right LT1s. So I would say that LT4s are less sesitive to knock than LT1s.
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My reason for the post was mostly to flush out whether it was a myth or not. Apparently it does reduce the sensitivity of the sensor. I was wondering if someone tried it with no or little affect or, as posted above, someone who did it and it worked for them. I'm not trying to confirm it for my use or debate the right or wrong. Obviously if you're engine is knocking then bypassing the sensor is not correct. Do guys extend the sensor straight out with a coupling or 90 degree fitting? Or whatever works?
Thanks for the replies by the way. I find things like this interesting when guys have first hand experience.
Thanks for the replies by the way. I find things like this interesting when guys have first hand experience.
#10
I was told by a corvette tech, when I did a coolant flush and got LT4 knock sensors, that I should use the LT1 sensors sense (sic) that is what belongs in the car,(94 LT1) he said LT4 are less tolerant to knock, so I sent the LT4 sensors back and got the right LT1s. So I would say that LT4s are less sesitive (sic) to knock than LT1s.
#12
#13
Race Director
#14
Race Director
Years ago to reduce false knock, I wrapped the knock sensor with layers of teflon tape and tightened them just tight enough.
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A GM tech told me about using brass hardware to move out the knock sensor from the block to correct problems with false knock. I know I've seen this discussed but I was curious if anyone has seen this first hand and if it actually worked?? It sounded a little "bubba" but once I heard it was a fix used by dealers back then it made me curious.