I'm installing H/C package next week and want to know how to deaden the knock sensors so I will have no problems running a big cam(236/236 solid roller). I have LS1-Edit, but don't know if that will do it. I had seen somewhere about wrapping the sensors with somekind of tape, but I need some more info. Can anyone help?
Thanks

David

 

Why would you want to deaden your knock sensors. I thought their purpose was to sense knock and then retard timing so that your engine doesn't go
B O O M :smash:
Have I missed something here :confused:
I would think you would use LS1-Edit and a dyno to get your timing and fuel maps right

 

:nono: :nono:

 

LS1 Edit can lessen the effect of your knock sensors down to a max allowable number of degreees retard. I would'nt do this until the car has been as tuned as you can get it and your are 99.9% sure you won't hurt anything.

 

I think I should lessen their sensitivity so the pcm will except a very large cam. I can program the timing, I just don't want the knock sensors changing it. I'll ask Nick at ARE more about this Monday. I had always heard I needed to do this for this reason and to get it to idle correctly. I'm thinking a 640/640-236/236-112 solid cam is going to be pretty lumpy!!! :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy: :crazy:

 

[quote]I'm thinking a 640/640-236/236-112 solid cam is going to be pretty lumpy!!! [/qoute]

Damn!!!!!!!! And here I thought the 226/234-.552/.575-114 in my T/A was big!

 

Don't do it :nono:

Surely, the engine can run without , but over time, there will be carbon build-up on the heads, valves and pistons which at some point will cause pre-ignition then you'll get a big KABOOOOOM :cry :cry :cry
Deadening the knock sensors is a recipe for disaster.

Just my .02
Roger
:seeya

 

Leave em alone or kiss that motor goodbye.

 

are you talking about "false" knocking erronously reported by the sensor?

Someone sells a device that will do just what you mentioned. It just de-sensitises the sensor a little bit.

 

Hi,
Here is a stand-alone electronic device called The Knockout Box. $38
"The Knockout Box does not eliminate the full function of the knock sensors, it simply desensitizes the sensors output to the PCM so that typically all false knock is removed."
Let us know how it works out for you.
Steve

http://users.ev1.net/~ynot_dv8/KOBox.htm

 

Don't listen to all the aftermarket clap-trap you hear. The device known as Knock Out box cannot possibly deterimine what is false knock and what is actual detonation. What it can do is annenuate the knock signal in some way using the possibly dangerous assumption that lower levels of KS activity are more likely to be false but, (be they false *or* legitimate) not harmful.

Additionally, taping the sensor threads, coating them with RTV or using other homegrown methods of addressing "false knock" are totally ineffective in eliminating the problem. What they will do is either disable the KS altogether by either opening its ground path or attenuating the KS signal. What they will *not* due is discriminate and filter out false knock.

There is no question that mechanical lifter camshafts create a significant problem with false knock. In fact, even very aggressive hyd. profiles will do that. There is also no question that false knock and spark retard because of that represent a significant performance problem.

There is *no* safe solution to the problem of false knock stemming from an increase in valve train noise broght on by a camshaft that is more aggressive than production cams *other than* using gasoline of higher octane than can be typically found from most sources. This is particularly true of a modified engine that might have higher dynamic cylinder pressure or more spark advance, both of which will cause the engine to be more detonation-prone than a stock engine.

A misconception many people have about calibration is that GM and other manufacturers set the spark curve such that the knock sensor is going to "tripped" only in the most extreme of circumstances, such as a very hot intake air temperature combined with high coolant temperature and poor quality fuel. That might be the case in bread-and-butter passenger cars and some trucks but with high performance engines, such as the Gen IIIs in the C5, the spark curve is very aggressive. Only when very cool intake air and coolant temperatures are present will there be no knock retard with 91-octane gasoline which, other than the east coast, is the most common "premium" unleaded gasoline. In all other circumstances GM and other OEs rely on detonation sensing and knock retard to keep the engines out of detonation.

This why on modified engines, particularly those modified to have higher cylinder pressure at peak torque and/or more aggressive spark curves, it is very important to have the knock sensing feature working properly if the engine is run on pump gas or. If the KS system cannot work properly (due to false knock, for instance), use a higher octane gasoline. Generally engines such as the LS1 and LS6 in Corvettes require 94-95 oct. (R+M/2) to keep the engines free of detonation in a wide variety of atmospheric and load situations.

 

one way to determine if your KR is false or not is to first get an average KR count, then run with some higher grade gasoilne like Hib Halverson
mentioned (95 octane, or even higher racing gas). If you get no reduction in averaged counted knocks with this better gas, then it could be determined the knocks are false. It's a "guess", but I have read about this procedure before and most say it will give you a good indication about whether the reported KR is false or not.

Pinging is a very loud - high amplitude - quick pulsed noise. False knocks can be caused by mechanical noises. The trick is to try and determine which are false and which are real. Many in-the-know types have reported that the LS1 knock sensors are too sensitive... picking up noises that are too low of an amplitude to be real knock. But like Hib Halverson stated, these new engines are capable of massive amounts of spark advance. So you could surmize that the overly sensitive knock microphones are touchy on purpose.. to be on the safe side.



[Modified by Mike Mercury, 9:34 PM 5/5/2002]

 

Thanks for good replys,guys.