Code 22/High Idle/Really High Idle
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Albany NY
Code 22/High Idle/Really High Idle
Having a tough time figuring this out. Started out and continues to be a high idle issue, 1100-1900.
A few weeks back it threw a code 22. I replaced the TPS, code went away but the idle issue continued. I replaced the IAC's, coolant temp sensor and the high idle continues. It seems to be sporadic, once warmed up and driven a bit, it will settle down to around 1000, which actually seems normal, but, I know it is not.
So, anyway the other day the code 22 came back. I went through the FSM diagnostics and everything checks out until diagnosing circuit 417.
I will admit I am an idiot on electrical issues so please bear with me. When I disconnect the white ECM connector and check for open or short to ground, I get open (DVM set to ohms). But, I am not sure what that means? It says if circuit 417 is OK, then it is faulty ECM connector pin 5 or ECM. Does open mean it is ok?
Oh, I should add. When I connect the white ECM connector and check 417 for open or short, I get open. That leads me to believe there is something wrong with the circuit. Why else would they make me contort my body to unplug the white connector? I thought about trying to run another wire from the TPS connector but since I am so clueless on electrical I figured I would ask first before I blow something up.
Thanks for any advice.
A few weeks back it threw a code 22. I replaced the TPS, code went away but the idle issue continued. I replaced the IAC's, coolant temp sensor and the high idle continues. It seems to be sporadic, once warmed up and driven a bit, it will settle down to around 1000, which actually seems normal, but, I know it is not.
So, anyway the other day the code 22 came back. I went through the FSM diagnostics and everything checks out until diagnosing circuit 417.
I will admit I am an idiot on electrical issues so please bear with me. When I disconnect the white ECM connector and check for open or short to ground, I get open (DVM set to ohms). But, I am not sure what that means? It says if circuit 417 is OK, then it is faulty ECM connector pin 5 or ECM. Does open mean it is ok?
Oh, I should add. When I connect the white ECM connector and check 417 for open or short, I get open. That leads me to believe there is something wrong with the circuit. Why else would they make me contort my body to unplug the white connector? I thought about trying to run another wire from the TPS connector but since I am so clueless on electrical I figured I would ask first before I blow something up.
Thanks for any advice.
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Albany NY
More information. I wanted to see if I could get the IAC valves to fully close. I cleared all codes, grounded the AB on ALDL and turned ignition switch on. I heard something and it is both IAC valves opening and closing. They only move about an 1/8 of an inch but this does not seem right. I removed them and plugged them back in and they continue to go back and forth.
Which leads me to believe the ECM is going and/or gone?
Which leads me to believe the ECM is going and/or gone?
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Joined: Apr 2002
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From: Anaheim CA
I assume this is an '84 (you didn't say), based on the 2 IACs. When you connect ALDL connector pins A & B together the ECM should step the IACs outward (toward closed) continuously. You should hear a click, click, click sound as the IACs step out and totally close the IAC passages. The clicking is caused by the way the IACs are made. As the motor turns, the gears jump a tooth on the shaft when it bottoms out in the IAC passage.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; May 6, 2017 at 09:22 PM.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 68
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From: Albany NY
I assume this is an '84 (you didn't say), based on the 2 IACs. When you connect ALDL connector pins A & B together the ECM should step the IACs outward (toward closed) continuously. You should hear a click, click, click sound as the IACs step out and totally close the IAC passages. The clicking is caused by the way the IACs are made. As the motor turns, the gears jump a tooth on the shaft when it bottoms out in the IAC passage.
While I had this apart I decided to clean up the tangle of wires around the distributor. The car has been modified with an Xram and some other ignition modifications (I think).
In the distributor there is an Accel Performance Control Module (35363), there is also an Accel 300+ Racing Ignition. I was thinking to get rid of the Racing Ignition anyway, I guess the Control Module would need to be replaced so I would just leave it in there.
My question on the Accel 300+ is. Can I simply take that out? If I can how would I connect the wires? I do have the FSM and will look there as I wait for the ALDL to arrive to troubleshoot the high idle issue.
In the meantime, thanks for any advice. I will post updates and hope to add some value back in the future.
