1984 a4 no 4th
The fluid level is good and the smell and color of the fluid is normal as far as I can tell.
Did I mention I hate automatics never have any luck with them
So is this a warning that the other gears are going to out too soon? Do I need a whole new transmission rebuild repair etc. Will it need a new tc or not (no sign of any grit on the dipstick or on my fingers from the fluid.
Shift into second and third is completely normal so Im not thinking its the tv cable but what do I know.
Last edited by ToniJ1960; May 6, 2017 at 05:51 PM.
A 4 speed transmission shifts three times because it starts out in first. So you feel the 1-2 about 18-20 mph. You feel the 2-3 about 30 to 35, then you feel 4th up around 45-50.
BUT THEN you may feel another engagement that seems like a shift in the older cars, and that is TCC apply.
Easy test: When you run down the road with the shifter in OD, and you pull it back into third, you should see the tach jump. If you return it to the OD position and the tach drops, you have 4th gear.
A 4 speed transmission shifts three times because it starts out in first. So you feel the 1-2 about 18-20 mph. You feel the 2-3 about 30 to 35, then you feel 4th up around 45-50.
BUT THEN you may feel another engagement that seems like a shift in the older cars, and that is TCC apply.
Easy test: When you run down the road with the shifter in OD, and you pull it back into third, you should see the tach jump. If you return it to the OD position and the tach drops, you have 4th gear.
|My lock up hasn't worked since I bought the car a few years ago because its not connected (bad vss)
Definitely stuck in third on the highway by the feel of the engine braking so now where to look. I had read its more common to lose 3 and 4.
Last edited by ToniJ1960; May 6, 2017 at 06:16 PM.
Inside the transmission you can pull the pan and look for debris. If you see it, it is probably in the governor and has jammed it or jammed up the controls in your VB. (Although the problem there would be what is generating the debris, rather than the debris itself.)
It may be time for a transmission.
Why would it drop right back to 3 after going into 4 on the highway (just after the entrance ramp).
If you do replace the filter, I suggest prying off the crimped edge and opening it up to see what the inside looks like.
I don't understand what you mean when you say D vs. 3. D is 1 - 2 - 3, so 3 and D are basically the same. You can test for OD engagement by driving in OD at over 50 MPH and then shifting to D.
Last edited by Cliff Harris; May 6, 2017 at 09:42 PM.
If the shifter is in D4, but the trans has a problem with 4th, there will be no engine braking when lifting the throttle. Most likely revs will drop to idle.
I have had these transmissions loose the 3-4 clutch. Just before the 3-4 completely failed, it was unable to hold the torque in 4th, but still could hold the torque required for 3rd. (Only 1/2 of the torque for 3rd is through the 3-4, the other half comes through the forward clutch). My first hint that the 3-4 was finally done after 200K miles was "hey, I think its slipping in 4th", and it was. Adding throttle, revs would come up to 3rd gear speed when the sprag took hold. Because of this cue, I knew that the trans had to come out after this trip. I got home in 3rd by babying it, I never lost 3rd completely, but the 3-4 clutch was junk. Only 2 of the 6 frictions still had splines on them.
I think you have a shifter or cable problem. It's in D3, not D4.
Maybe something happened to the linkage but I don't think that's it.
No way it has been locking up the convertor with no vss input and with the connector broken for the tcc at the trans. Drove it home from Mich to St Louis and drove ok for nearly 3 years without it locking though.
Could it be in d3 or 3, if it says d and its in gear but in n its not in gear still? If it was in d3 or 3, wouldn't it still be in gear at the next position forward iow it would be in d instead of n at that point? But at n its definitely in neutral. So if its in 3 at d, and n when its in n, where did d go to?
I maintain the car is in 3rd gear on the highway whereas before it would be 4th, and I have noticeably greater engine braking. I had the car for over 3 years and Im not doing anything differently.
Last edited by ToniJ1960; May 7, 2017 at 12:11 AM.
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Maybe something happened to the linkage but I don't think that's it.
No way it has been locking up the convertor with no vss input and with the connector broken for the tcc at the trans. Drove it home from Mich to St Louis and drove ok for nearly 3 years without it locking though.
Could it be in d3 or 3, if it says d and its in gear but in n its not in gear still? If it was in d3 or 3, wouldn't it still be in gear at the next position forward iow it would be in d instead of n at that point? But at n its definitely in neutral. So if its in 3 at d, and n when its in n, where did d go to?
I maintain the car is in 3rd gear on the highway whereas before it would be 4th, and I have noticeably greater engine braking. I had the car for over 3 years and Im not doing anything differently.
Would it make sense to say if it dropped to third from fourth there would be no more noticeable braking, whereas maybe if it never went to fourth or was stuck from going to fourth at all, there would be noticeable braking from 3rd?
But then again Im fairly sure I noticed it downshift the first time on the highway, but it didn't give the acceleration jump from downshifting so maybe it never went into 4th that day at all then. Im starting to favor the notion it wasn't even in fourth that day at all.
So still the question, can it be not in D if its in the correct position next to N, and its in neutral when its at N? Why wont it go all the way to one, maybe a clue?
This is a schematic for the newer 4L60E but if you ignore shift solenoids the rest is the same.
With stick in [D] the overrun clutch in not applied for gears 1,2,3 and you will only have engine braking in 4th.
With stick in any lower position you will have engine braking in all gears, but transmision will not shift to 4th.
Last edited by JoBy; May 7, 2017 at 03:31 AM.
The tires are stock sized bridgestones.
Now driving on the highway at 2400 Im probably at around 50 maybe.
Speedometer still is a work in progress.
Wouldn't the tv cable affect all the shifts? Nothing else seems different. Shifter not going to one is something I never noticed because I never tried. So it seems odd the shifter or linkage could be out somehow since its still in the first position from N and feels the same amount of movement as r n d
Right now Im driving a 15 ft uhual that one side mirror just fell off of so hoping they come fix it or exchange my truck .
Take a good look at the shift cable bracket, make sure the trans is going to foth when selected.
Like put it in 4th, then get under the car and push on the linkage to see if it needed a little nudge.
And 4th gear and converter lockup are two totally separate things.
Last edited by Gibbles; May 8, 2017 at 07:10 AM.
this is my understanding as well although I have seen it suggested as otherwise
The question still remaining, is can I rule out the tv cable if the 1 2 and 2 3 shifts are the same as always?
Last edited by ToniJ1960; May 8, 2017 at 01:32 PM.
The pro argument is the engine braking. This generally only occurs when the coast clutch is applied/3rd or lower, and that is the reason to check the linkages.
The flip side of that is, transmissions fail in all sorts of strange ways. Controls get jammed with debris. Things break and bind together. The failures tend to be "cascading" like that. Bad automatic transmissions can just behave crazy and sometimes no amount of flow chart diagnostics can explain all the symptoms.
So, if it were me, I would check the obvious stuff and just make a ruling on it based on that.
Another thing to add; part of what is being suggested related to the car free coasting vs slowing down due to engine/drive train.
What happens is when the trans is in 4th gear, different clutches are engaged.
So third selected coasts differently then 4th gear selection.
It's part of the giveaway on what gear your transmission actually has selected vs what your shifter shows.
He found the connector a little mangled and the wire was actually off the connector at the car side of the wiring. He wanted to cut the connector off that had the wire out and attach it to the tcc pigtail directly.
I told him already I didn't think that was going to make a difference since the lockup doesn't work anyway, and that transmission isn't electronic. I was nearly ready to let him splice those wires until I thought better.
He showed me the wire after he removed both ends and theres a TO 220 transistor in the wiring he would have removed. I had to cut the shrink wrap he put on it off.
So he changed the pigtail, and Im ordering another exact same one for the car side connection. I think I would prefer to have just the pin with broken wire removed and replaced back with a pin/wire from the new pigtail. Am I being too picky?
I could do this if I had a way to get the car up safely but not possible now.
He keeps insisting its a 3 speed auto and lockup is 4th gear.













