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I did put over 2 gallons of gas in the tank so I know it's not out of gas. The car tries to start, idles roughly from 300-500 (not normal for my car), and then won't stay running. The computer also threw no codes at me. I've had the ECM, fuel pump, and fuel filter replaced recently also. I checked the spark plug wires and found no mishaps either. Does this sound like an ignition problem or a fuel delivery problem?
It almost sounds like your idle air control isn't opening up far enough. What happens if you hold the throttle open a little bit? Will it run but just not idle or does it run bad all the time?
Ok, do you have any means for checking the fuel pressure? I know you said you had the pump and filter replaced, this means you should be making very good pressure. If you're not then maybe your injectors are probably leaking and flooding it.
One thing you can try is to put the fuel pressure gauge on it and turn on the key, that should pressurize the system. Turn the key off and see how long it takes for the fuel pressure to fall off. It should hold it for quite a long time. If it falls then your injectors are in fact leaking.
I suppose EGR could be an issue as well. If your EGR valve is stuck open that'll cause all kinds of goofy problems. Don't know and easy way to test that though.
Disconnect the MAF (Mass Airflow) Sensor - unplug it - and try it. If it starts, the MAF is bad. Good Luck.
Ray
The '87 won't stay running with the MAF disconnected. It does, however, sound similar to what a car will do with the MAF disconnected. Mine didn't throw a code when I tried to run it with the MAF disconnected.
Golden80, do you have access to a spare MAF you could throw in place of yours as a check? What Nathan said about checking the fuel pressure would be a good place to look too. However, if it dies that quick, I don't think it would be the fuel pump. Usually the car will run well for about a minute before a malfunctioning fuel pump will manifest itself. At least in my experiences.
As a matter on note, believe around 400 RPM, your ignition module switches from bypass mode to having the ECM control spark. This solid state switch takes place in the ignition module based on a signal from the ECM. Trouble shooting chart in Helms is very good for this problem. Always suspicious of any troubles around this RPM range. When you run out of ideas, you may have some good parts store check your ignition module. And, since it won't start at all, we are back to fuel and spark.
Well just got back from Napa. They tested the control module 3 times and it worked fine. Should the next thing I look at be the coil? I think I have an extra sitting around my garage somewhere.
Now when I crank the motor the starter's just making a loud clicking noise. It'll crank the motor a little bit but then it just starts clicking. Is is safe to assume that it's the starter? Or am I going to end up replacing a flywheel?
The battery was just running out of juice from me cranking it to try and start it. I had it towed to the shop today. The mechanic says the fuel sender is toast and he's going to try and solder it back together. If that doesn't work he says I'll need to get a new one. Looks like my wallet's going to be super thin. :cry :cry :cry