I'm trying to check bellhousing alignment for my ZF and it looks like the retainer that screws into the clutch fork stud will not budge. The hex hole has started to round out. I'm planning to slowly grind an allen key down to try and fit but is there a way to remove the fork without having to "unscrew" it by undoing the clutch fork stud? Old school sbc bell lets you pop it out without having to undo the fork stud, I hate they got away from that detail. Thinking about using an EZ out bit as a last resort.

Once I get past this part, I picked up a cheap Summit dial indicator with a magnetic base. Flywheel is mounted, I know you can bring the balancer mark to 0 and turn the engine over 90 degrees and check the 3,6,9,12 O'clock readings. I'm a little lost after this part, as some tutorials seem to pick one side or the other to either "add" or "subtract" from but how did they determine which direction the bellhousing needs to move?

Furthermore, how does one get a proper reading if the dial is not perfectly centered in the middle of the bore? Every video I see has the dial indicator cocked 3/4 to one side or other of the bore. The rim of the dial indicator can rotate so you get "0" under the pointer. I'm guessing this how to offset the dial not being perfectly centered.

Frustrated from not being able to get the fork out of the way so can't quite see the forest for the trees on this dialing in process right now. Wondering if someone can dumb it down for me.

 

Did you actually start with the correct 6mm hex? The retainer is "counter clock-wise" to remove but when you remove the actual stud that requires a "clock-wise" rotation to remove. I believe that confuses some and they assume that both require the same rotation. That ain't so. Both are RH thread but the approach for insertion is very different.

I don't recall many mentioning issues with the ZF clutch housings. Is yours a Corvette piece or a QuickTime maybe? Have you established that you actually have an issue? What makes you feel you've an issue that needs correction or even "checking"?

 

I had no clue it was 6mm but my mistake was blue loctite on the retainer threads for fear of the actual clutch fork stud trying to come loose. This isn't the factory trans that came with this car nor is the engine. Didn't think one could just slap it together and all would be well. This is time number three (and the last then it's for sale) having the trans on the floor fixing a rear main seal leak. A part of me wonders if a misalignment in the drivetrain may be causing the rear main leak issue as well as a leak out of the rear tail housing shaft even after a new seal.

So while it's all apart, why not take the extra time to check tolerance? Can't hurt at this point.