Window Sweeps
#1
Le Mans Master
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Window Sweeps
So Im to the point where Ive worked up enough courage to take this project on.... Despite all the posts saying that is was extremely difficult.
I have my new GM replacements on the way.
What can I expect to encounter while I have the door panel off? What else should I look at replacing, greasing, etc.? What will I probably break?
Thanks!!
I have my new GM replacements on the way.
What can I expect to encounter while I have the door panel off? What else should I look at replacing, greasing, etc.? What will I probably break?
Thanks!!
#2
Zen Vet Master Level VII
Ok, it is not difficult, just a PITA. Frankly there are alot of jobs worse that this one
Allow more time than you think as this is a "slow but sure job." Mine took 10 hours, BUT I got sidelined with extra "pop up" projects. Taping lines, adding foam insulation, painting screw tops, fixing the fiberglass on door panels and friends over for beers who distracted me. Really allow about 2-3 hours per side.
Follow your process in the FSM. It is really very accurate.
Everything will come apart pretty simple and be careful with the plastic clips- don't force anything.
Put some painters tape on the outside of your door right along the old sweep. It will protect the paint.
I did both doors at the same time following the FSM. I found it to be helpfull to do the same process to both at the same time.
You will drill the rivets out. Your rivet backing WILL fall behind the frame ledge. I squirted some crazy glue through the rivet hole to trap the rivet backing. If you don't get them out, they will fall down and rattle.
Tape your drill bit about 1/8 of an inch up from the point. Use this as a guide so you don't drill too far.
Lube up the inside of the sweep and the door with WD40 when you reassemble. It will make it much easier. Get a decent pop rivet gun.
I'll enclose a picture of my effort. Absolutely worth the effort- Note the FSM on the top of the car!
Allow more time than you think as this is a "slow but sure job." Mine took 10 hours, BUT I got sidelined with extra "pop up" projects. Taping lines, adding foam insulation, painting screw tops, fixing the fiberglass on door panels and friends over for beers who distracted me. Really allow about 2-3 hours per side.
Follow your process in the FSM. It is really very accurate.
Everything will come apart pretty simple and be careful with the plastic clips- don't force anything.
Put some painters tape on the outside of your door right along the old sweep. It will protect the paint.
I did both doors at the same time following the FSM. I found it to be helpfull to do the same process to both at the same time.
You will drill the rivets out. Your rivet backing WILL fall behind the frame ledge. I squirted some crazy glue through the rivet hole to trap the rivet backing. If you don't get them out, they will fall down and rattle.
Tape your drill bit about 1/8 of an inch up from the point. Use this as a guide so you don't drill too far.
Lube up the inside of the sweep and the door with WD40 when you reassemble. It will make it much easier. Get a decent pop rivet gun.
I'll enclose a picture of my effort. Absolutely worth the effort- Note the FSM on the top of the car!
Last edited by billschroeder5842; 05-29-2017 at 04:23 PM.
#4
Racer
I just did my 89 sweeps and they really were a pita!! They were hard to get out, drilling the rivets out was the easy part. You want to be careful about putting pressure on them when they are up against the window, I was so afraid I was going to break the window trying to pull these up, they kept bending. loosen the window anti rattle clips to allow some window movement. Getting in the new ones is equally hard, as the clips don't like to go into the holes equally as when I pushed on in, the other would pop out, so had to keep starting over. Take your time and have a beer or two.
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81c3 (05-30-2017)
#5
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2007
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I just did my 89 sweeps and they really were a pita!! They were hard to get out, drilling the rivets out was the easy part. You want to be careful about putting pressure on them when they are up against the window, I was so afraid I was going to break the window trying to pull these up, they kept bending. loosen the window anti rattle clips to allow some window movement. Getting in the new ones is equally hard, as the clips don't like to go into the holes equally as when I pushed on in, the other would pop out, so had to keep starting over. Take your time and have a beer or two.
or 6
#6
Le Mans Master
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Ok, it is not difficult, just a PITA. Frankly there are alot of jobs worse that this one
Allow more time than you think as this is a "slow but sure job." Mine took 10 hours, BUT I got sidelined with extra "pop up" projects. Taping lines, adding foam insulation, painting screw tops, fixing the fiberglass on door panels and friends over for beers who distracted me. Really allow about 2-3 hours per side.
Follow your process in the FSM. It is really very accurate.
Everything will come apart pretty simple and be careful with the plastic clips- don't force anything.
Put some painters tape on the outside of your door right along the old sweep. It will protect the paint.
I did both doors at the same time following the FSM. I found it to be helpfull to do the same process to both at the same time.
You will drill the rivets out. Your rivet backing WILL fall behind the frame ledge. I squirted some crazy glue through the rivet hole to trap the rivet backing. If you don't get them out, they will fall down and rattle.
Tape your drill bit about 1/8 of an inch up from the point. Use this as a guide so you don't drill too far.
Lube up the inside of the sweep and the door with WD40 when you reassemble. It will make it much easier. Get a decent pop rivet gun.
I'll enclose a picture of my effort. Absolutely worth the effort- Note the FSM on the top of the car!
Allow more time than you think as this is a "slow but sure job." Mine took 10 hours, BUT I got sidelined with extra "pop up" projects. Taping lines, adding foam insulation, painting screw tops, fixing the fiberglass on door panels and friends over for beers who distracted me. Really allow about 2-3 hours per side.
Follow your process in the FSM. It is really very accurate.
Everything will come apart pretty simple and be careful with the plastic clips- don't force anything.
Put some painters tape on the outside of your door right along the old sweep. It will protect the paint.
I did both doors at the same time following the FSM. I found it to be helpfull to do the same process to both at the same time.
You will drill the rivets out. Your rivet backing WILL fall behind the frame ledge. I squirted some crazy glue through the rivet hole to trap the rivet backing. If you don't get them out, they will fall down and rattle.
Tape your drill bit about 1/8 of an inch up from the point. Use this as a guide so you don't drill too far.
Lube up the inside of the sweep and the door with WD40 when you reassemble. It will make it much easier. Get a decent pop rivet gun.
I'll enclose a picture of my effort. Absolutely worth the effort- Note the FSM on the top of the car!
Few questions:
1.What is the rivet size Ill need?
2.What other parts are wear items that may need replacement?
3.If I do the inner and outer sweeps, will the window still line up in the closed position?
#8
Zen Vet Master Level VII
Thanks for the pointers. I do have the FSM and I do have all the time needed. I am no rush at all. The car is just a pleasure use vehicle. I have a good pop rivet gun.
Few questions:
1.What is the rivet size Ill need?
2.What other parts are wear items that may need replacement?
3.If I do the inner and outer sweeps, will the window still line up in the closed position?
Few questions:
1.What is the rivet size Ill need?
2.What other parts are wear items that may need replacement?
3.If I do the inner and outer sweeps, will the window still line up in the closed position?
Nothing needs to be replaced that wears
Yes, everythign will align as long as you don't move the tracks. Now, your new sweeps will push against the glass until it ages, softens and conforms. Very normal.
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81c3 (05-31-2017)
#9
Advanced
Agree. Not difficult. Both doors took a little over 2 hours. Go easy on the snap out/pry out pieces like the lamp over the inner handle. Rivets were easy. Pull the old sweep straight up.
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81c3 (05-31-2017)
#10
if u do inner, the staples are the hardest part. i used a dremel to cut them in the middle and then a flat blade to pry each side up enough to yoink with plyers.
i riveted them to the plastick using a medium sized rivet.
i riveted them to the plastick using a medium sized rivet.
#14
Le Mans Master
No they control angle of the window lower in the door. They crack and break apart over time making your window go up at the wrong angle as they close.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/cor...-window-glass/
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/cor...-window-glass/
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
#15
Instructor
The rivets in the middle of my passenger door sweep don't hold, so it lifts up about 1/8" when the window is up. There is another problem I want to fix while I'm in there on both sides. If the window is rolled down at all it make an awful racket when you close the door. What do I need to get while I'm in there?
#16
Le Mans Master
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Member Since: Dec 2005
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No they control angle of the window lower in the door. They crack and break apart over time making your window go up at the wrong angle as they close.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/cor...-window-glass/
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/cor...-window-glass/
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
http://www.ecklerscorvette.com/corve...1993-1996.html
#17
Safety Car
I have read where a few have drilled through the door drilling out the rivets. Having not replaced them, I don't know if that's easy or hard to do.
Here's a tip from woodworking: use a drill stop. Some are adjustable and put them on the bit and tighten then down so you can't drill too deep. Another method is to take a small piece of wood about as long as the bit and drill a hole through it. Now cut it off so only the amount of drill bit you want is exposed and slip it over the bit. Either method prevents you from drilling too deep and hitting something you didn't intend to.
Here's a tip from woodworking: use a drill stop. Some are adjustable and put them on the bit and tighten then down so you can't drill too deep. Another method is to take a small piece of wood about as long as the bit and drill a hole through it. Now cut it off so only the amount of drill bit you want is exposed and slip it over the bit. Either method prevents you from drilling too deep and hitting something you didn't intend to.
#18
Le Mans Master
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Got them done today... man my finger tips are sore!! The inners were in excellent shape, so I left well enough alone and only did the outsides.... they were literally crumbling to pieces as I was removing them.... and thats on a 34k mile car!!
As far as the job goes..... it wasn't as bad as I figured it would be. I only managed to break the ground wire lead to the wiper switch for the light bulb.... I fixed that.
Other than that, it was all fairly straight forward. Getting the new ones clipped in was the hardest part of the whole job. Took me about 45 minutes each side just for that... Tearing everything apart was only about 30 minutes per side.... I took the time to lube the door lock lock and door opener rod contact points and joints. Cleaned everything up inside the doors and the regulators as well. I used white assembly lube for everything.
The only bad side effect is that when the windows are raised, they push on the weather strip and distort it somewhat on both sides. Opening then closing the door with the window up fixes the issue. I'm hoping that with some time and sunshine, that will stop.
Otherwise, they look outstanding!
As far as the job goes..... it wasn't as bad as I figured it would be. I only managed to break the ground wire lead to the wiper switch for the light bulb.... I fixed that.
Other than that, it was all fairly straight forward. Getting the new ones clipped in was the hardest part of the whole job. Took me about 45 minutes each side just for that... Tearing everything apart was only about 30 minutes per side.... I took the time to lube the door lock lock and door opener rod contact points and joints. Cleaned everything up inside the doors and the regulators as well. I used white assembly lube for everything.
The only bad side effect is that when the windows are raised, they push on the weather strip and distort it somewhat on both sides. Opening then closing the door with the window up fixes the issue. I'm hoping that with some time and sunshine, that will stop.
Otherwise, they look outstanding!