86 pacer eric

Hello how is everybody doing out there everybody's been a help in the past so I don't see how the situation could be any different okay long story short had to replace the distributor put the brand new one in there the engine was undisturbed try to fire it up she stammers but will not catch everything tells me that this is timing but before I go stupid I was just like a little confirmation from those out there or a possible new route that I haven't thought of thank you in advance you guys are all a big help and I don't care what my lady says the Corvettes are not a money pit

Joe C

I do the physical alignment method when installing the distributor. set the engine at #1 TDC, compression, and position the slot of the oil pump shaft at approximately the 5:30 position. set the distributor squarely on the engine - use the four distributor cap mounting points - parallel and perpendicular to the engines CL. position the rotor pointing to the center of the LH valve cover emblem, and lower the distributor to engage the drive gear. a little wiggle-giggle may be necessary, but everything should fall into place. when fully seated, the rotor should be pointing to the #1 spark plug. turn the distributor about 2-3° CCW, and secure. cap and plug wires, and you should be good to go. your initial static timing should be around 4-6° BTDC. fine tune as required.

86 pacer eric

There we go thank you so much I tried to half-*** it to be honest you know see what I did is I just took a picture with my phone of the old one before I took it out and I match marked it on the EGR valve and right there on the hood weathering and I just you know tried to matches perfect as I could I was hoping more than knowing that it would work but when she stambul I felt good and I knew I was close so thank you for the advice that is what I'm going to do

86 pacer eric

One last thing real quick what size socket to move the cam thank you

Joe C

I don't understand - cam? are you referring to the center bolt on the crank pulley/harmonic balancer? if so, it's 5/8" - HOWEVER I don't recommend using it to turn the engine with all (8) spark plugs in place. the torque on that bolt is 60 ft.lb. and you could easily exceed that going against engine compression. the last thing you want to do is over torque and possibly shear the head off that bolt. if you remove the plugs, you can easily turn the engine using that bolt without excessive torque. I use a 5/8" 6-point, with a 1/2" drive, long handle ratchet -

A Peter C4

What Joe C said .Do not break crank bolt.

86 pacer eric

Okay thanks I was going to put new filters in an oil change and I was thinking about doing the plugs anyway since she's been sitting for awhile so cool thanks for the advice

86 pacer eric

Since we're talking spark plugs are replacing the wires a pain in the *** or not cuz I mean might as well new distributor and all

Joe C

factory routing is not difficult, but a (just a little) PITA. you have to take your time, and pay attention to detail, and foremost, be very ****. there are a series of plastic wire holders, that route the wires along the bottom flange of the valve covers, up and behind, and ultimately to the cap. contrary to the FSM's, three wires route BEHIND the distributor , #1, #2, and #3. that has been an error in the FSM's since day one, and for some reason, never corrected.

I personally use Tylor spiro-pro, 8mm silicone, custom fit for the L98 corvette. I've installed several sets, and IMO, quality product, and they fit very well. about $55 on-line.

are your wires in place now, and does it appear to be original wires and routing? if so, half the battle is done. the wires are a specific length, and are meant to route to the factory configuration. do a search within this forum on spark plug wire routing and installation - as I recall, lately, there have been several thread on the subject.

here's a start -

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...lug-wires.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-routing.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...e-lengths.html

86 pacer eric

well thank you so much I did do a little research on my own and I don't know if there's any truth to it or not but from what I understand the spark plug some cells is going to be about for our job to get them out and it's best to come from the bottom and from what this guy was saying this forum is that number eight is near impossible to do so I'm thinking before I even go about doing this project I better look thoroughly into this but thank you for the help

86 pacer eric

sorry for the context I know it doesn't make sense autocorrect what I was trying to say the spark plugs are supposed to be A4 to 5 hour job if I understand it correctly and that the best route is to come from underneath and that number 8 is near impossible to do is why I was trying to say but autocorrect

86 pacer eric

and I know and understand this was supposed to be a timing thread and we got way off onto the spark plug thing but thank you for your advice