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cruse control was not working. Using a vacuum pump, I found vacuum was not holding in the hose that goes thru dash to dump switch on brake pedal. I disconnected hose from switch, and it held vacuum. I pulled switch and found it would not hold vacuum at all. Order new switch and found new switch pumps up, but starts loosing vacuum right away also. I have ordered new switch. Am I correct in the fact that the switch should pump up and hold vacuum until brake pedal is applied dumping vacuum. It should not leak at all?
I'm referring to the vacuum switch mounted near the brake pedal With cruise set to a certain speed, using the brake pedal will dump vacuum, basically turning off the cruise control until you set it again
cruse control was not working. Using a vacuum pump, I found vacuum was not holding in the hose that goes thru dash to dump switch on brake pedal. I disconnected hose from switch, and it held vacuum. I pulled switch and found it would not hold vacuum at all. Order new switch and found new switch pumps up, but starts loosing vacuum right away also. I have ordered new switch. Am I correct in the fact that the switch should pump up and hold vacuum until brake pedal is applied dumping vacuum. It should not leak at all?
I'd guess they all leak a little, mine does... I have an '84...I don't know if your car has the same setup.
I just got my cruise working... on mine , the servo has 2 solenoids, and to make the throttle open, you need to supply power to both of them.. servo pins a&E get 12v, ground is pin C. pins B and D is inductive pickup sensor for servo position feedback. Solenoid resistance to ground s/b 20 ohms...
My problem was one of the solenoids was stuck open. When I apply power to each solenoid, they should each click.
You might check those servo solenoids... FSM troubleshooting manual came in pretty handy... altho I didn't follow the steps exactly.
this is a steady drop, not all at once, but fairly quick. I have another new one coming, so I will compare the two using hand vacuum pump
the speed of the drop has to do with the size of the leak, and the volume containing the vacuum.... so if it's just the volume of the line going to the switch, there isn't much capacity there.
The vacuum dump switch is an emergency system to stop the cruise in the event the electronics fail in a "full throttle" mode. This is why the diameter of the hose is bigger than the vacuum supply hose. You could plug it off as a test to rule out the vacuum dump switch. Of course, this has some danger involved, as defeating a safety system is seldom a good idea. But it would answer your question immediately.
Got new switch today. Pumped it up and vacuum dropped slowly to about 10 and held steady. Tried the other two, one would not even pump up and the other pumped up but would fall down to zero very quickly
Got new switch today. Pumped it up and vacuum dropped slowly to about 10 and held steady. Tried the other two, one would not even pump up and the other pumped up but would fall down to zero very quickly