When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am having a shop change my rear wheel bearings and rear u-joints on my 96 base this Thursday. The mechanic Ben is a good guy but I don't think he has much C4 experience. I am paying by the hour and not the job. My question is what is the best order to do things to make it the most efficient.
My Thought:
1. break loose rear spindle nuts both sides.
2. Break loose the tie rod ends both sides.
3. Unbolt and remove the half shafts.
4. Break loose the torex 55 bolts for the bearing.
5. Replace bearing.
6. change out u-joints and replace the half shafts
7. replace tie rod ends.
8. torque the spindle nuts.
Please comment. Thanks, Dan PS He let's me watch.
Last edited by Whaleman; Jun 20, 2017 at 11:57 AM.
From: Clifton Park, NY ............Clearwater, FL ... 85 Original Owner
Originally Posted by Whaleman
I am having a shop change my rear wheel bearings and rear u-joints on my 96 base this Thursday. The mechanic Ben is a good guy but I don't think he has much C4 experience. I am paying by the hour and not the job. My question is what is the best order to do things to make it the most efficient.
My Thought:
1. break loose rear spindle nuts both sides.
2. Break loose the tie rod ends both sides.
3. Unbolt and remove the half shafts.
4. Break loose the torex 55 bolts for the bearing.
5. Replace bearing.
6. change out u-joints and replace the half shafts
7. replace tie rod ends.
8. torque the spindle nuts.
Please comment. Thanks, Dan PS He let's me watch.
There is no special set way that it is done. If he is a good mechanic he won't need your help. Leave him alone and it will get done faster
I am having a shop change my rear wheel bearings and rear u-joints on my 96 base this Thursday. The mechanic Ben is a good guy but I don't think he has much C4 experience. I am paying by the hour and not the job. My question is what is the best order to do things to make it the most efficient.
My Thought:
1. break loose rear spindle nuts both sides.
2. Break loose the tie rod ends both sides.
3. Unbolt and remove the half shafts.
4. Break loose the torex 55 bolts for the bearing.
5. Replace bearing.
6. change out u-joints and replace the half shafts
7. replace tie rod ends.
8. torque the spindle nuts.
Please comment. Thanks, Dan PS He let's me watch.
If you are going to replace rear wheel bearing, would be a nice idea to take look at the teflon washers and eventually replace them, and put grese there too
If you are going to replace rear wheel bearing, would be a nice idea to take look at the teflon washers and eventually replace them, and put grese there too
I know about the anti-seize on the spline but I have never read about greasing the Teflon washer. Is the Teflon washer supposed to be greased? Yes, I have two new ones. Thank You Dan
I know about the anti-seize on the spline but I have never read about greasing the Teflon washer. Is the Teflon washer supposed to be greased? Yes, I have two new ones. Thank You Dan
I know about the anti-seize on the spline but I have never read about greasing the Teflon washer. Is the Teflon washer supposed to be greased? Yes, I have two new ones. Thank You Dan
once you get them old and dry, you get "krik krok" noise when you make forward backward with your car
Last edited by Christi@n; Jun 22, 2017 at 03:06 AM.
Mechanic did great in my opinion. Replaced both rear wheel bearings and all four u-joints. Three hours total for a bill of $200.00 (I supplied parts). No more noise on long sweepers. Dan
Mechanic did great in my opinion. Replaced both rear wheel bearings and all four u-joints. Three hours total for a bill of $200.00 (I supplied parts). No more noise on long sweepers. Dan
Price looks good, just with some patience and hours you could save 200$ and get a little experience about vette
Last edited by Christi@n; Jun 24, 2017 at 12:49 PM.
Price looks good, just with some patience and hours you could save 200$ and get a little experience about vette
20 years ago I would have. At 65 with bad knees and not real tall safety stands I am glad I took it in. There used to be a place in town where you could rent a lift by the hour. If this was still around I might have tried. Not laying underneath. It was all I could do to get far enough under to get the oil filter and drain plug. Thanks, Dan
Yes, both wheel bearings and all four half shaft u-joints. I had two more new u-joints for the main drive shaft until he explained how long of a job that was. He checked them and told me to hold off on those. Dan
That makes me think about moving I believe this was your nephew maybe
Why do you say this? It took 3 hours at $80.00/hour. That is $240.00. They offer a cash discount ( ticket is thrown away and no tax is paid). They offered a cash price of $200.00. basically two Benjamin's. Remember this is a small shop in a small town. Thanks,Dan
Why do you say this? It took 3 hours at $80.00/hour. That is $240.00. They offer a cash discount ( ticket is thrown away and no tax is paid). They offered a cash price of $200.00. basically two Benjamin's. Remember this is a small shop in a small town. Thanks,Dan
I wish I could get mine done for that I was just kidding with you. Most places here want about 400 up to do one side. Midas wanted 600 for one side and 900 for both (not including hubs even just the u joints)
20 years ago I would have. At 65 with bad knees and not real tall safety stands I am glad I took it in. There used to be a place in town where you could rent a lift by the hour. If this was still around I might have tried. Not laying underneath. It was all I could do to get far enough under to get the oil filter and drain plug. Thanks, Dan