Doing a flush tommorrow
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
Doing a flush tommorrow
DECIDED TO get a coolant flush done tomorrow and am trying to convince this shop to remove the block plugs incase thiers any crap clogging things up, Ive read where some here say its an easy task to remove the plugs, is that true or is their more involved??? BTW its a 95 C4
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,575
Likes: 961
From: Communist Colorado
I think you have a couple of knock sensors in the water jackets that need to be removed for a full flush. Why not do it at home? Its very easy... I did mine last weekend... no issues. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 8,575
Likes: 961
From: Communist Colorado
Definitely remove the 2 knock sensors. The block bottom acts as a
sump, and if the sensors have never been removed (very likely) there
will be considerable residue/deposits that should be flushed/dislodged from
the block bottom. Unless you witness this operation, the shop will most
likely not remove the sensors, and the sediment.
It is suggest that new sensors be installed ($25/ea (?)). New sensors comer with thread sealant applied, and it is very important to torque the
sensors to 14 ft. lbs.
Sensor removal is accomplished using a socket wrench.
sump, and if the sensors have never been removed (very likely) there
will be considerable residue/deposits that should be flushed/dislodged from
the block bottom. Unless you witness this operation, the shop will most
likely not remove the sensors, and the sediment.
It is suggest that new sensors be installed ($25/ea (?)). New sensors comer with thread sealant applied, and it is very important to torque the
sensors to 14 ft. lbs.
Sensor removal is accomplished using a socket wrench.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 761
Likes: 66
From: Fitzwilliam New Hampshire
Most certainly remove both knocks and replace with new, you may never need to do the complete flush again, also remove rad. and clean out the fins of crap that causes poor air flow and your ride will be good for many more miles. 14 lbs. ft. torque on knocks, clean block threads. Hardest part is bleeding the air out when refilling the system.
Last edited by A Peter C4; Jul 12, 2017 at 06:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
thanx for the info but have no way to get under the car that's why its a shop job and can hopfully gettem to deal with those K/Sensors !
Pro
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 732
Likes: 72
From: the confused state CT
I just did my 95 in my garage. A service center with a lift should be able to do this easily. I would plan on replacing them both. A socket would not get mine out, I had to use a set of channellocks to grab them. One side was blocked solid, I had to remove the sediment with a pick to get the coolant and trash flowing from the block.
Gary
Gary
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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ok guys just got the bad news took the car in for a coolant change and looks like the water pump is bad and not sure its dripped down on the opti however the 95 has a seep hole so hoping it hasn't affected the opti..even tho the koolant was nasty they wouldn't do a flush being it could make the leak worse, atleast they were honest!
BTW on a 95 is the WP geared???
BTW on a 95 is the WP geared???
Last edited by lectroglide; Jul 13, 2017 at 01:09 PM.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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am feeling a little miss but nothing bad and could be something else...........is that water pump geared????
Last edited by lectroglide; Jul 13, 2017 at 01:28 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
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"A little miss" could be "bad". To advise you to replace the opti now would be premature.
Re water pump gear: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-see-pic.html
Re water pump gear: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...t-see-pic.html
Last edited by lectroglide; Jul 13, 2017 at 04:08 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 2,692
Likes: 349
From: Sacramento California
^ Gary is right about the water pump drive. The water pump will work as long as the engine is turning, even if the serpentine belt breaks.
A full flush requires removal of the knock sensors. Any decent mechanic can do this, and if this shop gives you any grief at all, I would take the car somewhere else. While the Corvette engine bay is tight, the SBC is a simple engine and easy to work on. I pulled my own shields and knock sensors when flushing, it was not hard. And I don't have a lift, did it on 4 jack stands inside my garage.
The most important things about the knock sensors:
- be careful removing the connector clip, they can break
- use a socket or wrench that fits snug, you may have to use some penetrating oil if they have not been removed in a long time
-- the installation torque is around 13ft-lb if I recall correctly, and do not use teflon tape to seal the threads because the sensor threads must ground to the block. (I reused my old sensors and added a little copper anti-seize to the threads before reinstalling, no leaks and the car runs awesome.)
A full flush requires removal of the knock sensors. Any decent mechanic can do this, and if this shop gives you any grief at all, I would take the car somewhere else. While the Corvette engine bay is tight, the SBC is a simple engine and easy to work on. I pulled my own shields and knock sensors when flushing, it was not hard. And I don't have a lift, did it on 4 jack stands inside my garage.
The most important things about the knock sensors:
- be careful removing the connector clip, they can break
- use a socket or wrench that fits snug, you may have to use some penetrating oil if they have not been removed in a long time
-- the installation torque is around 13ft-lb if I recall correctly, and do not use teflon tape to seal the threads because the sensor threads must ground to the block. (I reused my old sensors and added a little copper anti-seize to the threads before reinstalling, no leaks and the car runs awesome.)
Last edited by DGXR; Jul 14, 2017 at 12:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 642
Likes: 11
^ Gary is right about the water pump drive. The water pump will work as long as the engine is turning, even if the serpentine belt breaks.
A full flush requires removal of the knock sensors. Any decent mechanic can do this, and if this shop gives you any grief at all, I would take the car somewhere else. While the Corvette engine bay is tight, the SBC is a simple engine and easy to work on. I pulled my own shields and knock sensors when flushing, it was not hard. And I don't have a lift, did it on 4 jack stands inside my garage.
The most important things about the knock sensors:
- be careful removing the connector clip, they can break
- use a socket or wrench that fits snug, you may have to use some penetrating oil if they have not been removed in a long time
-- the installation torque is around 13ft-lb if I recall correctly, and do not use teflon tape to seal the threads because the sensor threads must ground to the block. (I reused my old sensors and added a little copper anti-seize to the threads before reinstalling, no leaks and the car runs awesome.)
A full flush requires removal of the knock sensors. Any decent mechanic can do this, and if this shop gives you any grief at all, I would take the car somewhere else. While the Corvette engine bay is tight, the SBC is a simple engine and easy to work on. I pulled my own shields and knock sensors when flushing, it was not hard. And I don't have a lift, did it on 4 jack stands inside my garage.
The most important things about the knock sensors:
- be careful removing the connector clip, they can break
- use a socket or wrench that fits snug, you may have to use some penetrating oil if they have not been removed in a long time
-- the installation torque is around 13ft-lb if I recall correctly, and do not use teflon tape to seal the threads because the sensor threads must ground to the block. (I reused my old sensors and added a little copper anti-seize to the threads before reinstalling, no leaks and the car runs awesome.)
Last edited by lectroglide; Jul 14, 2017 at 01:19 PM.