Functioning Opti maintenance
Prior to removing, there have been no issues with it's performance so i'm hesitant to open it up or play with it, but now would be the best time to do so.
What do you guys think...add a vent, lock tight the rotor screw??

If the bearing seems good and the sensor is a real Mitsubishi part, then I would be inclined to do a the following things and then put it back in. I would probably put Loctite blue on the rotor screws. I would also inspect the cap and rotor for wear and oxidation, and replace if they don't look good. Finally, I would seal the cap and middle plate to the distributor base (the two areas sealed with an o-ring) with RTV and put silicone grease on the rubber gasket where the sensor harness passes through the cap. This should help keep water out.

I'd add that if it seems serviceable (the bearing is still good), then I would get a grease needle such as this:

Slip it into the bearing's seal and pump some fresh, quality synthetic grease in there. Kept greased, the bearing should last quite a long time.
Last, if the inside of the unit dirty inside (and they usually are) with dust/soot like matter then I would clean it out and clean out the optical unit w/a tissue paper and windex.
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Last edited by Tom400CFI; Jul 14, 2017 at 01:44 PM.
This might be a dumb question but is there any preventative maintenance that can be done when its not dis-attached? Sorry if too off topic
If it does have a Mitsubishi sensor, should I order a new cap/rotor that is vented? Something like this MSD unit..
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd...FQEDaQodknkI6g


You should be able to see a measurable amount of deterioration on the brass terminals and rotor tip if it needs replacement. If it cleans up with a cloth then it should be ready a longer life as is.
A proactive maintenance would be convert to a vented system. Super Chevy has article on doing this and performed by Petris automotive. It looks like a lot of work though - be ready.
My feeling is if it ain't broke don't try an fix it. Well in your case you have a good opti in hand. You didn't post how many miles are on it but it was new in 2000.
Normally this would be a chance to experiment and try something else as you now have a working backup. Those AIP opti's sold by Sac City are tempting to try as they claim an improved sensor that's better than Mitsubishi spec. And are dirt cheap!
Sorry but trial and error is the only option here as so many internet posts are unreliable. To many owners manage to goof up their Opti just putting in on and blame the mfr.
Now if you are making major engine modifications it's best to stick with what you have working at least until the engine is cooperating well enough. I would leave experiments for later. Only one I would consider now with the Opti out is the conversion to vented using that same Opti and replacing the cap/rotor in the process.
Good luck
You should be able to see a measurable amount of deterioration on the brass terminals and rotor tip if it needs replacement. If it cleans up with a cloth then it should be ready a longer life as is.
A proactive maintenance would be convert to a vented system. Super Chevy has article on doing this and performed by Petris automotive. It looks like a lot of work though - be ready.
My feeling is if it ain't broke don't try an fix it. Well in your case you have a good opti in hand. You didn't post how many miles are on it but it was new in 2000.
Normally this would be a chance to experiment and try something else as you now have a working backup. Those AIP opti's sold by Sac City are tempting to try as they claim an improved sensor that's better than Mitsubishi spec. And are dirt cheap!
Sorry but trial and error is the only option here as so many internet posts are unreliable. To many owners manage to goof up their Opti just putting in on and blame the mfr.
Now if you are making major engine modifications it's best to stick with what you have working at least until the engine is cooperating well enough. I would leave experiments for later. Only one I would consider now with the Opti out is the conversion to vented using that same Opti and replacing the cap/rotor in the process.
Good luck
I also saw the super chevy article about converting and you are
Right that's a lot of work to add a vent!
My gut feeling also says if it isn't broke, don't mess with it. Never know what kind of additional problems could be created by getting into it. Like you said with a larger project on hand at the moment, less variables for issues at startup is probably better.
Yup. Nothing radical, just a GMPP hotcam kit. Many argue it's old technology (which it is) but it's a proven performer for what I'm looking for. Should be fun!
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I also saw the super chevy article about converting and you are
Right that's a lot of work to add a vent!
My gut feeling also says if it isn't broke, don't mess with it. Never know what kind of additional problems could be created by getting into it. Like you said with a larger project on hand at the moment, less variables for issues at startup is probably better.
Yup. Nothing radical, just a GMPP hotcam kit. Many argue it's old technology (which it is) but it's a proven performer for what I'm looking for. Should be fun!
But yeah, cardo pretty much told you what I would. But yes, I would for sure RTV the part where the o ring goes on the opti. Dumb question, if we were to put that cam in, would it require any bottom end strengthening?
As far as the cam you should be fine as long as your starting with a well maintained platform. Upgrade the valve train to suit the cam and don't rev the hell out of it and you should be alright.


With the non-vented Opti you don't have the issue of the lower pressure of a vacuum drawing air and contamination into the Opti. But there are self sealing electrical tape (mastic ?) available to give the entire Opti pancake a "wrap" around the edge - just an idea here.
Good luck.
The mastic tape is a good idea as well. At work I often use dielectric tape that creates some electric insulation, might be a good product to use for this.








