93 Couple PKE+SRC+Cruise+Ignition and CCM / BCM
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
93 Couple PKE+SRC+Cruise+Ignition and CCM / BCM
HI,
Had this car for almost 20 years, a few years ago it had a starting problem, it would not start after "SYS" light would show. NOT turn over, nothing. Similar signs to a dead battery issue, but battery was good along with new ignition keys. Had the car towed to a GM Dealer, diagnosed it to be Central Control Module.
Part was N/A from GM at the time, so I sourced a used one. The car sat at the dealer for a few months, with no luck on locating a new CCM.
Towed back home ripped the dash apart, plugged in the used one, and had the same problem. Car would start sometimes or nothing at all. NO start / not turning over and SYS still active.
Found a programming shop to test original CCM, and found it to be working, said this is definitely NOT the problem. I plugged original CCM back and put the dash back together. Starting was still an issue.
On a whim, I decided to change the ECM. Installed a rebuilt unit, and it fired right up. NO SYS.. It's been a few years and it cured the problem. GM misdiagnosed the module.
Anyway, the car has not been registered for awhile now, Had to have it painted after a tenant vandalized the paint. Had it painted, and now a bunch of issues that I never really noticed before.
1. Passive keyless entry not working and not lighting up on DIC on start up. Purchased new fob, followed program instructions, but with no light unable to program. Possible burnt light @ DIC ?
2. Canadian cars have daytime running lights, it was working, but now is not. New bulbs installed, all other lights work, but not DRL.
3. Service Ride Control light on. Have tried to pull code, and clear but unable to process either.
4. Low Tire Pressure Warning light also not lighting up on start up. Again, possibly burnt bulb when dash was apart.
5. Cruise control not working.
6. Ignition buzzer not working.
So my thoughts are the CCM needs to be programmed, to the vehicle via Tech 1 ? I don't know what they did when shop checked or did..
OR do I have an issue, with each module ?
Current codes via A-G connections;
1.0 C12
4. - - -
9. H72
1.0
Any help, or feedback greatly appreciated. Tried to make the story short and simple. OR cut my losses and sentimental values and trade er in.
Had this car for almost 20 years, a few years ago it had a starting problem, it would not start after "SYS" light would show. NOT turn over, nothing. Similar signs to a dead battery issue, but battery was good along with new ignition keys. Had the car towed to a GM Dealer, diagnosed it to be Central Control Module.
Part was N/A from GM at the time, so I sourced a used one. The car sat at the dealer for a few months, with no luck on locating a new CCM.
Towed back home ripped the dash apart, plugged in the used one, and had the same problem. Car would start sometimes or nothing at all. NO start / not turning over and SYS still active.
Found a programming shop to test original CCM, and found it to be working, said this is definitely NOT the problem. I plugged original CCM back and put the dash back together. Starting was still an issue.
On a whim, I decided to change the ECM. Installed a rebuilt unit, and it fired right up. NO SYS.. It's been a few years and it cured the problem. GM misdiagnosed the module.
Anyway, the car has not been registered for awhile now, Had to have it painted after a tenant vandalized the paint. Had it painted, and now a bunch of issues that I never really noticed before.
1. Passive keyless entry not working and not lighting up on DIC on start up. Purchased new fob, followed program instructions, but with no light unable to program. Possible burnt light @ DIC ?
2. Canadian cars have daytime running lights, it was working, but now is not. New bulbs installed, all other lights work, but not DRL.
3. Service Ride Control light on. Have tried to pull code, and clear but unable to process either.
4. Low Tire Pressure Warning light also not lighting up on start up. Again, possibly burnt bulb when dash was apart.
5. Cruise control not working.
6. Ignition buzzer not working.
So my thoughts are the CCM needs to be programmed, to the vehicle via Tech 1 ? I don't know what they did when shop checked or did..
OR do I have an issue, with each module ?
Current codes via A-G connections;
1.0 C12
4. - - -
9. H72
1.0
Any help, or feedback greatly appreciated. Tried to make the story short and simple. OR cut my losses and sentimental values and trade er in.
Last edited by vetteboy78; 07-17-2017 at 01:56 PM. Reason: add
#2
Le Mans Master
Sounds like your car starts and runs OK now with the ECM replaced.
You cannot reprogram the CCM unless it has less than 100 miles on it and basically this is just for mileage. There is nothing to really reprogram in it for operational use.
Your H72 in module 9 might relate back to the cruise problem. I would clear and see if it returns.
You have a load of problems in you 1-6 write up. None are simple answers and require additional data and information from the FSM. You can't address all at the same time
You need to pick the problems one by one. Which one do you want to start with that would help you the most?
It would wise to have a FSM of your own to attack all these problems. It would answer a lot of you questions and help with the troubleshooting.
You cannot reprogram the CCM unless it has less than 100 miles on it and basically this is just for mileage. There is nothing to really reprogram in it for operational use.
Your H72 in module 9 might relate back to the cruise problem. I would clear and see if it returns.
You have a load of problems in you 1-6 write up. None are simple answers and require additional data and information from the FSM. You can't address all at the same time
You need to pick the problems one by one. Which one do you want to start with that would help you the most?
It would wise to have a FSM of your own to attack all these problems. It would answer a lot of you questions and help with the troubleshooting.
The following users liked this post:
vetteboy78 (07-17-2017)
#3
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Thanks, I will start with the keyless entry system. I will start by checking the bulbs @ DIC first.
I have checked all the fuses, all are good.
Also, horns stopped working. I think it's the actual horns or relay as there is out of the ordinary clicking from the passenger side relay area.when activated.
And yes, car tip starts and runs. No engine codes.
I have checked all the fuses, all are good.
Also, horns stopped working. I think it's the actual horns or relay as there is out of the ordinary clicking from the passenger side relay area.when activated.
And yes, car tip starts and runs. No engine codes.
Last edited by vetteboy78; 07-17-2017 at 01:53 PM.
#4
Le Mans Master
PKE system
Other than the bulb being bad in the DIC, there are 2 basic reasons the bulb does not light for the 2 second test when the key is turned to ON. The PKE receiver may be defective which is very common. Or the system is in sleep mode (standby mode) and will not light the bulb or respond to commands.
However if the PKE receiver is working it will light the bulb and be able to be programmed with the buttons even if it is in sleep mode. During the programming sequence the light will illuminate on the DIC which would indicate life in the PKE module. If it does not light, then more than likely the module is bad.
Even without a FOB you can still go thru the programming mode and get the light to illuminate. Of course nothing will be programmed but it would just be a test.
Check fuses 40, 26 & 42. The CCM is also a part of the PKE system.
Making voltage measurements on the PKE is difficult since it is buried inside the dash.
Does your electronic door locks work with the slide switches on the door?
Does your hatch unlock using the switch on the door?
Do you know if the antitheft is working? Or how to check it?
These are the first steps and where to start. Do you have the proper programming procedure?
Horn
Sounds like the horn relay is clicking but still could be bad. Disconnect horns and run external 12 volts to them to check them one at a time.
Other than the bulb being bad in the DIC, there are 2 basic reasons the bulb does not light for the 2 second test when the key is turned to ON. The PKE receiver may be defective which is very common. Or the system is in sleep mode (standby mode) and will not light the bulb or respond to commands.
However if the PKE receiver is working it will light the bulb and be able to be programmed with the buttons even if it is in sleep mode. During the programming sequence the light will illuminate on the DIC which would indicate life in the PKE module. If it does not light, then more than likely the module is bad.
Even without a FOB you can still go thru the programming mode and get the light to illuminate. Of course nothing will be programmed but it would just be a test.
Check fuses 40, 26 & 42. The CCM is also a part of the PKE system.
Making voltage measurements on the PKE is difficult since it is buried inside the dash.
Does your electronic door locks work with the slide switches on the door?
Does your hatch unlock using the switch on the door?
Do you know if the antitheft is working? Or how to check it?
These are the first steps and where to start. Do you have the proper programming procedure?
Horn
Sounds like the horn relay is clicking but still could be bad. Disconnect horns and run external 12 volts to them to check them one at a time.
Last edited by pcolt94; 07-17-2017 at 04:32 PM.
#5
HI,
1. Passive keyless entry not working and not lighting up on DIC on start up. Purchased new fob, followed program instructions, but with no light unable to program. Possible burnt light @ DIC ?
2. Canadian cars have daytime running lights, it was working, but now is not. New bulbs installed, all other lights work, but not DRL.
3. Service Ride Control light on. Have tried to pull code, and clear but unable to process either.
4. Low Tire Pressure Warning light also not lighting up on start up. Again, possibly burnt bulb when dash was apart.
5. Cruise control not working.
6. Ignition buzzer not working.
So my thoughts are the CCM needs to be programmed, to the vehicle via Tech 1 ? I don't know what they did when shop checked or did..
OR do I have an issue, with each module ?
Current codes via A-G connections;
1.0 C12
4. - - -
9. H72
1.0
Any help, or feedback greatly appreciated. Tried to make the story short and simple. OR cut my losses and sentimental values and trade er in.
1. Passive keyless entry not working and not lighting up on DIC on start up. Purchased new fob, followed program instructions, but with no light unable to program. Possible burnt light @ DIC ?
2. Canadian cars have daytime running lights, it was working, but now is not. New bulbs installed, all other lights work, but not DRL.
3. Service Ride Control light on. Have tried to pull code, and clear but unable to process either.
4. Low Tire Pressure Warning light also not lighting up on start up. Again, possibly burnt bulb when dash was apart.
5. Cruise control not working.
6. Ignition buzzer not working.
So my thoughts are the CCM needs to be programmed, to the vehicle via Tech 1 ? I don't know what they did when shop checked or did..
OR do I have an issue, with each module ?
Current codes via A-G connections;
1.0 C12
4. - - -
9. H72
1.0
Any help, or feedback greatly appreciated. Tried to make the story short and simple. OR cut my losses and sentimental values and trade er in.
2.) possible module failure for DRL or it did not get connected with dash apart.
3.) SRC codes can not be read through CCM diagnostics. Must use dedicated port to enter SRC module. CCM has no control over the FX3 system.
4.) To my knowledge, Canadian cars did not get LTPWS due to the radio frequency not being approved.
5.) Possible vacuum line crack, bad switch at clutch or brake. Or bad module.
6.) Possible bad module, or it did not get connected with dash apart. Key. You set is bad, or CCM control outputs are bad.
You really need a manual to walk you through the testing procedure. Nothing is that bad, but before you go change the CCM again hoping it fixes everything, work through the issues one by one.
#6
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Cleared DTC, no codes current.
Checked fuses today. NO power to fuse with ignition on or off @ 26 & 16 CCM and PKE.
"Security" light flashes. Lock from inside, then turns solid "security".
Vacuum lines are good at cruise control.
Found my GMSM, and will figure where to start. Also, is there anything in the driver's door that could have been disconnected when removing the side view mirrors? Car was painted, the rear hatch switch was not connected, it worked when I dropped the car off. Anyway took the panel off, plugged it back in. Works now.
Checked fuses today. NO power to fuse with ignition on or off @ 26 & 16 CCM and PKE.
"Security" light flashes. Lock from inside, then turns solid "security".
Vacuum lines are good at cruise control.
Found my GMSM, and will figure where to start. Also, is there anything in the driver's door that could have been disconnected when removing the side view mirrors? Car was painted, the rear hatch switch was not connected, it worked when I dropped the car off. Anyway took the panel off, plugged it back in. Works now.
Last edited by vetteboy78; 07-30-2017 at 09:51 AM.