hey I know, lets let you drive around when you knew the WP was going out and left you stranded some where ,now wouldn't that be fun and yes I prolly should have delt with the rad however knew the WP was going bad so that's where I started.... DONE

 

This thread has gone off the rails it seems. I take the OP and Kmcoldcars at their word that the water pump was going bad and leaking since I wasn't there.

And maybe the radiator should be pulled and the fins carefully inspected and cleaned out.

But first get the water pump correctly installed and working. Then see what the temps are.

lectroglide, if you haven't already gotten it, get the Factory Service Manual for your year either in print or on CD. Then print or copy the necessary procedure pages when you take it for servicing (even if it's to a "Corvette specialist"). It could make your life a whole lot easier and keep the car running properly.

 

[QUOTE=Silver96ce;1595229828]This thread has gone off the rails it seems. I take the OP and Kmcoldcars at their word that the water pump was going bad and leaking since I wasn't there.

And maybe the radiator should be pulled and the fins carefully inspected and cleaned out.

But first get the water pump correctly installed and working. Then see what the temps are.

lectroglide, if you haven't already gotten it, get the Factory Service Manual for your year either in print or on CD. Then print or copy the necessary procedure pages when you take it for servicing (even if it's to a "Corvette specialist"). It could make your life a whole lot easier and keep the car running properly.

thanx for the reply, were taking it to a more knowlegable shop guy tomorrow so will see how it goes, but before I drop the car off gonna see if anythings changed since we let some water out being the last shop over filled the system, if it starts acting up will know the WP was installed wrong, or if that's not that case then something else is going on. believe me, this has been one headache after another!! but kudos to keith who helped things go smoother

 

I wouldn't start it until the new shop checks it out. I highly doubt that the water pump has a coupler installed as the old shop had the original coupler and they seemed perplexed about it. You could do some damage to the engine. A head gasket itself is cheap but the labor costs to install it are very high.

 

 

Damn, you are amazing. You are 3000 miles away yet you know exactly how things went down here.

Just a side note.
I have noticed over the years that you have been very helpful to many Corvette owners who are having problems. Thank you for helping them out. Just do not tell us how things unfolded here when you are not here.


Yea, there is a WOW about it.... that was a screwed up, rude and unnecessary way to respond. PERIOD! No need to talk to people like that.

 

He thinks he knows more than the guys here that have wrenched their corvettes for 3 decades. Whatever, LOL

He want's to change coolant because the temp hit 226 (OMG) instead of cleaning the radiator. How is changing fluid going to help that?

Mechanic tells him there is "a slight trace" of oil on the pan, so now it has to have a seal. Who knows how long that was there. If it was anything to worry about, there would have been drips on the floor

Mechanic tells him WP is leaking. Yeah sure. If it was he would have noticed on ground and or having to refill all the time

Ball Bearings loose and missing? Yeah sure, after the mechanic pries out the seal.

Probably into it for 1K pretty soon for nothing

 

I did not intend for this to become a pissing contest. I just do not like someone who is about 3000 miles away, who does not know Dan or me, tell us that things did not happen the way we said they did.

A little about me.

I bought my first collector car, a 1926 Model T, in 1962. Since then I have owned and worked on a wide variety of cars, including but not limited to, various Model Ts, a 1919 Cadillac limousine, 1923 Lincoln, 1932 Lincoln V-12, 2 1929 Franklins, a 1928 Chrysler Model 72 roadster, a 1933 MG J2 roadster, a 1939 Delage D6-75 Drophead de Ville, custom bodied by Coachcarft of London, a 1937 Ford, 1957 and 1958 Cadillac Eldorados, a 1958 Pontiac Bonneville, a 1957 Corvette, several Jaguar XK 120 and 150s, a 1968 AMX 390, a 1971 Javelin AMX with a 401, a 1971 Buick Gran Sport Stage 1 convertible, which was 1 of 81 built, 1972 and 1974 Panteras, and others, about 60 in all. I worked on all of these cars. Some required major work, others required minor work.
I have rebuilt engines for some people, and have restored a few cars for others, including a Model A, a Jaguar XK120 and a 1938 Jaguar SSII.
For the last 25 years I have done upholstery on collector cars, and have done some body work and painted some cars for customers also. The body work and paintwork was mostly done on pre war Packards, and was high quality.
A 1937 Packard I upholstered won a National 1st prize at Hershey. A 1941 Chrysler barrelback woody, of which about 7 are known to exist, which I upholstered, won 1st at the Carillon Point Concours in Kirkland, Washington, which is a "by invitation only" car show, and draws entrants from all across the country. Another 1937 Packard I upholstered won 1st in class at the Packards International annual meet and scored enough points to be inducted into the Packard Circle of Champions. I think by now you get the idea that I do high quality work.
It is probably fair to say that my experience on cars is more varied and more extensive than most people on this forum.
I also have more education and experience than just working on cars. I have a Bachelor of Science from the University of Washington in Geological Sciences. I also worked 20 years on troubleshooting and repairing, to the component level, computer systems. I worked on CAD/CAM systems costing up to $ 1,500,000.00. I was the District Technical Support for one company. If our field engineers on site could not solve the problem, they called me for help. If I could not resolve the problem over the phone, I flew out to the site and repaired the equipment. My territory was Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Colorado, and Utah.
My first modern Corvette was a 1991, bought in 2008. I also had a 1992, and currently have a 1991 that is supercharged, a 2000 convertible and a 2002 Z06. I do almost all of the maintenance and repair of these Corvettes. Over the years I have learned a few things about these cars but I do not know everything. I have learned a lot from this forum and appreciate people like cruisinfanatic who are willing to take time to share their knowledge and help others.

 

KM, you don't really need to explain or support your position. None of us other than you and lectroglide were there in person. I (and I hope others) take you and him at your word. Maybe everyone should take a deep breath and calm down. This forum is about helping and supporting each other not tearing each down.

Oh and your car resume is impressive to say the least.

Keep updating the thread please as the repairs are made.

 

All, When I removed my 1995 Water Pump it too had a Ball Bearing supported (Driven) Shaft.. and my chevron style Seal was shot, just as the OP has indicated..

 

makes ya wonder why they didn't use "sealed bearings..........we used to use those in our high RPM model airplane engines and they held up fantastico!

 

 

Ill grab some
ps I see people filling the l98 overflow bottle full also when it is supposed to have 1/2 inch of water. Mine was sqirting water 5 ft high and I got the seller to knock off 500 dollars. Later I found out and drained it. All was perfect.

 

This morning Dan drove his Corvette from my house less than 1 1/2 miles to Mike's shop. The coolant was tested for exhaust gases and none were found in the coolant. The waterpump was removed and the sleeve was not installed. Mike put the car back together and checked it out, and says it is good to go. We will pick the car up tomorrow morning. If there are any problems we will let all of you and Mike know.

 

 

Good to hear.

Now, lectroglide time get some time in the driver's seat enjoying the car.

 

Dan picked his car up today and it is not overheating when he drives it. The original problem was the waterpump and the next problem was the shop leaving the sleeve out when they installed the new waterpump.

 

that's correct, the car stayed below 185 most of the way home then when I reached home which was about 10 miles from the pickup point it read 205, so will see how its goes..........also noted the temp sensor was bad which is on the front of the motor and an easy fix from what I understand.

 

Would help to have a simple explanation..... you cite engine temps, then suggest the temp sensor may be faulty. What gage are you reading to determine your op temps? Analog temp sensor is located in the passenger side of the block (1 wire). The digital temp sensor (2 wire) is mounted in the water pump housing, and is readily accessible for replacement.

You really need to confirm the action of the cooling system. The LT1 uses a closed system, meaning no outside air enters the system. Start with a full reservoir, which is an extension of the radiator, ensure the overflow bottle level is at the 'cold' mark with a cold engine. During operation, the heated coolant will expand and build pressure.
When the pressure exceeds the rad cap rating (16# +/- 1#) expanded coolant will flow into the overflow bottle. At engine shut-down, the engine will cool, and create a siphon
replenishing the expanded coolant. If a siphon does not occur, there is a breach in the closed system, usually from a frayed/split hose end, loose clamp, radiator hole, deformed rad cap gasket, even a microscopic crack in the neck of the reservoir will allow air into the system.

If air enters the system, the pressure rated rad cap is negated, and the boiling point of coolant will be 212, instead of about 250.

 

You are not blind and you are correct. My Waterpump was also missing ***** when it went out.