Originally Posted by Kmcoldcars

Dan picked his car up today and it is not overheating when he drives it. The original problem was the waterpump and the next problem was the shop leaving the sleeve out when they installed the new waterpump.

Originally Posted by lectroglide

that's correct, the car stayed below 185 most of the way home then when I reached home which was about 10 miles from the pickup point it read 205, so will see how its goes..........also noted the temp sensor was bad which is on the front of the motor and an easy fix from what I understand.

Originally Posted by seabright

Would help to have a simple explanation..... you cite engine temps, then suggest the temp sensor may be faulty. What gage are you reading to determine your op temps? Analog temp sensor is located in the passenger side of the block (1 wire). The digital temp sensor (2 wire) is mounted in the water pump housing, and is readily accessible for replacement.

You really need to confirm the action of the cooling system. The LT1 uses a closed system, meaning no outside air enters the system. Start with a full reservoir, which is an extension of the radiator, ensure the overflow bottle level is at the 'cold' mark with a cold engine. During operation, the heated coolant will expand and build pressure.
When the pressure exceeds the rad cap rating (16# +/- 1#) expanded coolant will flow into the overflow bottle. At engine shut-down, the engine will cool, and create a siphon
replenishing the expanded coolant. If a siphon does not occur, there is a breach in the closed system, usually from a frayed/split hose end, loose clamp, radiator hole, deformed rad cap gasket, even a microscopic crack in the neck of the reservoir will allow air into the system.

If air enters the system, the pressure rated rad cap is negated, and the boiling point of coolant will be 212, instead of about 250.

Originally Posted by Kmcoldcars

The digital temp is working correctly.