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What does the guy you are getting the cam from think? I ran with the D36 and whatever lame gear they had but once everything was sorted out, I had it changed to a 3.54 D44 because that was what they recommended with the cam/heads/intake combination.
I mentioned the 3.07 gears to him, so with the cam (222/228 .570/.565 110 LSA)), he recommended a 3200 TC
Rebuilt ones from FIC depending on what the tuner says. He needs to adjust the injector constant or you will have fueling issues. So if he goes with 30 or in my case 42, I would get a rebuilt set from FIC. I got bit badly once with TFS so I'd pass on their stuff. Besides, rebuilt is cheaper and hasn't shown to be a problem yet.
Great, the money is flowing, so I want to save where I can without causing a problem. Another area I'm saving on is the rear(D36) I bought. D44 with gear change can get expensive($1K+), plus it is a street/hiway car and not a strip car
I mentioned the 3.07 gears to him, so with the cam (222/228 .570/.565 110 LSA)), he recommended a 3200 TC
Unless Vader says that they refused to honor the warranty, I have no issues with Vigilante. They give a free restall within 2 years so if you toast the trans, they will cut it apart and clean it and restall. Also, if you don't like the stall, they will restall it to a different setting.
Great, the money is flowing, so I want to save where I can without causing a problem. Another area I'm saving on is the rear(D36) I bought. D44 with gear change can get expensive($1K+), plus it is a street/hiway car and not a strip car
Mine isn't a strip car either although I can take it to the strip if I so choose. That said, I broke the D36 so that is something to keep in mind. I wouldn't get a gear change today but keep shopping for a good deal on a D44.
Mine isn't a strip car either although I can take it to the strip if I so choose. That said, I broke the D36 so that is something to keep in mind. I wouldn't get a gear change today but keep shopping for a good deal on a D44.
I looked and looked for months for a Dana44. Very expensive. One day I found a 1988 with 80k on craigslist that was very reasonable. I still haven't installed it, but I can't wait to get rid of the 3.07 "performance" D36.
I think you'll be happy with the work Lloys does. A set of his heads and his Stage 2 cam dynoed at 500 Flywheel HP on a 383 I know of...
Ok - you are going with roller rockers, so - have you considered intake manifold porting ??? LLoyd can do a little work on your intake as well - it's not worth a zillion HP, but it will help.
As for the throttle body - Lloyd told me the 58mm was worth about 10 HP on the 383 (as opposed to a 52mm), but as with most things in life - there is a negative - the bigger throttle body allows more air to flow at small throttle openings - so you lose a bit of "control" at small throttle openings. Utterly unimportant for a car that is going to get trailered to the strip - but kinda important if you are looking to pull away from a stop very smoothly....
IMHO - the tune is the next BIG thing to worry about - getting that right is really key to making a nice powerful and well behaved street engine.
I think you'll be happy with the work Lloys does. A set of his heads and his Stage 2 cam dynoed at 500 Flywheel HP on a 383 I know of...
Ok - you are going with roller rockers, so - have you considered intake manifold porting ??? LLoyd can do a little work on your intake as well - it's not worth a zillion HP, but it will help.
He is porting the intake
As for the throttle body - Lloyd told me the 58mm was worth about 10 HP on the 383 (as opposed to a 52mm), but as with most things in life - there is a negative - the bigger throttle body allows more air to flow at small throttle openings - so you lose a bit of "control" at small throttle openings. Utterly unimportant for a car that is going to get trailered to the strip - but kinda important if you are looking to pull away from a stop very smoothly....
From my research here and from Lloyd I really don't need a 58mm, so I'm stick with stock (and saving $300+). It is an easy switch in the future
IMHO - the tune is the next BIG thing to worry about - getting that right is really key to making a nice powerful and well behaved street engine.
I'm either going with Moe Bailey(Lloyd recommends) or PCM4less
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Last edited by vette196; Aug 25, 2017 at 11:44 AM.