Valve covers for 85 corvette
#21
Burning Brakes
Member Since: Jan 2017
Location: Diamondhead Mississippi
Posts: 960
Received 236 Likes
on
171 Posts
St. Jude Donor '17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22
this is one area where VT3 and I disagree - personally, i'd replace the factory studs with 1/4" longer moroso studs (p/n 97020), and use fel-pro 1628 (blue) silicone rubber gaskets. clean both surface "squeaky" clean, and install dry without any kind of additional sealant, AND TORQUE TO SPEC.
your VC's don't look all that bad - i'd give them a good cleaning and a fresh topcoat with satin nickel valve cover paint.
here's a good thread on the subject...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nger-side.html
whatever way you go here, good luck!
your VC's don't look all that bad - i'd give them a good cleaning and a fresh topcoat with satin nickel valve cover paint.
here's a good thread on the subject...
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nger-side.html
whatever way you go here, good luck!
I noticed that these are 1/4-20 x 1 3/4 studs according to the Moroso part number above. Is this correct? I was going to order when I redo my valve covers but was concerned since everything else seems to be metric.
#22
1/4-20 is correct. on the 85, and i'm guessing all L98's, everything within the basic engine is UNC = Unified National Coarse threads, whereas attachment parts and accessories are metric - plenum, runners, throttle body, etc.. a mixture of apples and oranges. enough to drive a normal person NUTS!!!
The following users liked this post:
cdm747 (10-11-2017)
#24
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
id refurb your 85 vc's using either joec's method or mine (both work and produce long lasting beautiful vc's) and personally on the 85, and early 86, i would not use anything other than cork with a correctly applied hylomar coating. the surfaces are different than the aluminum headed late 86-onward. you will likely find a hideous application of rtv under you vc's and you will spend more time trying to remove it than getting the vc's off.
hylomar + cork on iron heads is my recommendation for iron heads. notethat hylomar needs to be "printed" then seperated and left to sit for 5-10 minutes before mating surfaces.
good luck and let us know how whivh dirxn you go and how it works out.
👍
VT
hylomar + cork on iron heads is my recommendation for iron heads. notethat hylomar needs to be "printed" then seperated and left to sit for 5-10 minutes before mating surfaces.
good luck and let us know how whivh dirxn you go and how it works out.
👍
VT
#25
this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hylomar-Universal-Blue-3-5-Tube/dp/B00XLWUO0A
and here u go!!
watch this video and more.
note that i use hylomar blue for both water and oil seals with no problem at all.
https://youtu.be/6gKbg8ah0c4https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=5s&v=6gKbg8ah0c4
and here u go!!
watch this video and more.
note that i use hylomar blue for both water and oil seals with no problem at all.
https://youtu.be/6gKbg8ah0c4https://m.youtube.com/watch?t=5s&v=6gKbg8ah0c4
Last edited by VikingTrad3r; 01-20-2018 at 10:41 AM.
The following users liked this post:
BKnoll (01-20-2018)