BKnoll

So I bought some valve covers for my 85 corvette and they're about an inch shorter than stock. Does that matter?

Joe C

I don't understand - no oil cap? did you get two LH covers? explain "an inch shorter" - ????. can you post a pic of what you have? as far as valve covers for an 85, I'm all for the original equipment. i'm assuming you don't have your originals - ???

BKnoll

Yeah I just realized I don't need the oil filler hole I can just pull one of the plugs but yeah the valve covers I got are an inch shorter than stock does that matter? I'm replacing the stock ones because they are cracked.

Joe C

i'm totally confused "i don't need the oil filler hole?" OK, how are you going to add oil? and I really don't understand "just pull one of the plugs" - what plugs???

when you say an inch shorter, i'm assuming height - ??? any GM valve cover should be sufficient height to clear the rocker arms - assuming everything is OE configured.

a pic would really help out here....

also, post a pic of your originals -

John A. Marker

If they are an inch shorter in height your rocker arms will probably hit the cover when the engine is running.

Pwnage1337

Not sure how they could be an inch shorter as the stock ones are pretty short to begin with.

I have the original covers from my 85 that aren't cracked or anything, but have a coat of rather poorly applied black paint on them. You can have them for the cost of shipping if you want them

confab

If you already have them, pull one and check for clearance.

Be careful with the 85. I have two sets of cast aluminum covers that fit every other small block in the word it seems, but won't clear the alternator on the vett.)

BKnoll

Here's the two pictures you asked for

Joe C

now I understand! those chrome valve covers, are indeed correct for a SMC, HOWEVER, they are more suited to engines prior to 350 cubic inch displacement. most older small blocks, 265, 283, 327's had an oil fill port located in the front of the intake manifold -


while they may work on your 85, assuming they will clear your rocker arms, my thinking is they would be more of a PITA, just from the adding oil standpoint. in addition, those chromies are stamped steel - you'll need "spreaders" to spread the clamping force on the attachment hardware, and being stamped steel, if the flange isn't perfectly flat, IMO, there's more chance for oil leaks. my suggestion, send those puppies back, and get a correctly configured set of OE covers.

you mentioned in a previous post, that you stock covers are cracked. did you pull the covers for a look-see? i'm asking, because lately we've had several threads on leaking valve covers on iron head 85's. any chance of posting a pic of the cracked covers?

BKnoll

Ok well I haven't taken them off yet hopefully I'll be doing that today. So I guess I'm just assuming they're cracked since they are leaking. If they aren't cracked I'll keep them I got permadry gaskets so hopefully that will solve my leaking issues.

VikingTrad3r

id refurb your 85 vc's using either joec's method or mine (both work and produce long lasting beautiful vc's) and personally on the 85, and early 86, i would not use anything other than cork with a correctly applied hylomar coating. the surfaces are different than the aluminum headed late 86-onward. you will likely find a hideous application of rtv under you vc's and you will spend more time trying to remove it than getting the vc's off.

hylomar + cork on iron heads is my recommendation for iron heads. notethat hylomar needs to be "printed" then seperated and left to sit for 5-10 minutes before mating surfaces.

good luck and let us know how whivh dirxn you go and how it works out.

👍

VT

Joe C

this is one area where VT3 and I disagree - personally, i'd replace the factory studs with 1/4" longer moroso studs (p/n 97020), and use fel-pro 1628 (blue) silicone rubber gaskets. clean both surface "squeaky" clean, and install dry without any kind of additional sealant, AND TORQUE TO SPEC.

your VC's don't look all that bad - i'd give them a good cleaning and a fresh topcoat with satin nickel valve cover paint.

here's a good thread on the subject...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...nger-side.html

whatever way you go here, good luck!

VikingTrad3r

the BLUE felpro's that JoeC mentions are EXCELLENT. the BLACK ones made also by felpro are NOT excellent. they are harder rubber and do not work well on the ironheads. the blue is nice and soft and conforms to the mating surfaces and they are best in class.

as joe says, if you go with the blue felpro, i believe you need a slightly longer stud as the blue is a tiny bit thicker and the oem studs arnt tall enough. this is a super easy swap (shorter for taller) so dont let that stop you.

i just wanted to chime in again because i do agree with joe on the soft blue rubber felpros. if you need to do an oilpan gasket, these are best in class.

i typically go the cork/hylomar route only because the cars i buy and refurb as a hobby tend to be near-roach status and i save $50 when i can get the same performace.

but for ease of install, and best in class leak proofness, i totally agree on the blue felpro!

(dont ask us about heating the valve covers if you repaint!!!). lol.

cheers and look fwd to your progress whichever way you go.

BKnoll

So I made the mistake of using the black fel-pro permadry gaskets I already had. Not gonna make the mistake of taking the faster route again because now I have to take them off again and use the blue ones. But one of my injectors is leaking I just installed the Bosch 3s a few weeks ago and everything was fine but now the left rear injector is leaking. Do I have to take everything apart again just to fix that one injector or is there a better way? I’m guessing the O-ring just got rolled or something on installation but I’m not sure.

aklim

I would pull everything off and change all O-rings. On my setup you would have to pull one side at least and I'd do both sides just to be absolutely sure I didn't roll another one. Did you lube it with Petroleum Jelly or something when pushing down? I like to mount it on the rail and then gently push both sides at the same time.

BKnoll

No I didn’t lube it at all, should I have?

aklim

I would have. Vaseline, Motor Oil or some have used WD40. Anything to make it slide into place and hopefully not catch.

BKnoll

Ok thank you, I’ll make sure to do that when I reinstall them hopefully everything will go smoothly this time.

GUSTO14

Bradley, quick question... when you removed your valve covers, did you find any gaskets at all on the engine?

I bought a new '85 Corvette back in the day and within 6 months the valve covers were leaking oil. I assumed that one of the gaskets was torn during install so I pulled the valve cover. Much to my surprise, there was no gasket at all, just some RTV on the valve covers. I went to my local Chevrolet dealer and asked why there were no gaskets on my engine. All they said was oh yea, the factory just uses RTV, but we can sell you a set of gaskets!

By the way, what a PIA to change gaskets those things were. I could change them on my '63 or '77 in 20 minutes. It took a half an hour to remove each cover at least!

Good luck... GUSTO

BKnoll

Yeah there were gaskets already on there that I had to peel off. They really are a PIA I’m not looking forward to removing them again.