When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a freon leak between the compressor clutch and the pully. I really don't want to replace the entire compressor as it works otherwise. What part do I need to replace to fix this problem?
Are you trying to keep it original for show purposes or what? It has to come off one way or the other. R12 is coming out obviously and there is no way to fix it without it coming off, changing the receiver/dryer. If your clutch was going bad, sure.
Are you trying to keep it original for show purposes or what? It has to come off one way or the other. R12 is coming out obviously and there is no way to fix it without it coming off, changing the receiver/dryer. If your clutch was going bad, sure.
The system is already an r134a with the matching receiver/dryer. The clutch and compressor both work, just the leak is the problem.
The system is already an r134a with the matching receiver/dryer. The clutch and compressor both work, just the leak is the problem.
When the system is open, which it will be once you take the compressor off, you should replace the receiver/dryer. IIRC, some compressor manufacturers insist you do that if you want a warranty. Personally, for $50, why bother? Just 2 hoses to remove.
I agree the seals are bad. To get the compressor out, you have to get someone with a vacuum to suck out the R134A or you can vent it. If you vent it, you have to pay someone to draw a vacuum for a bit and pump it in. Or you can have them suck it out and draw a vacuum and then pump it in.
You can replace the seals and do that if you feel lucky but if it leaks, you are out R134A and the receiver/dryer and the labor to vacuum and pump it in again.
So what are you trying to save on? The rebuilt price of the compressor?
When the system is open, which it will be once you take the compressor off, you should replace the receiver/dryer. IIRC, some compressor manufacturers insist you do that if you want a warranty. Personally, for $50, why bother? Just 2 hoses to remove.
I agree the seals are bad. To get the compressor out, you have to get someone with a vacuum to suck out the R134A or you can vent it. If you vent it, you have to pay someone to draw a vacuum for a bit and pump it in. Or you can have them suck it out and draw a vacuum and then pump it in.
You can replace the seals and do that if you feel lucky but if it leaks, you are out R134A and the receiver/dryer and the labor to vacuum and pump it in again.
So what are you trying to save on? The rebuilt price of the compressor?
Yes, a new compressor is at minimum $350. The R134a that was in there is already lost due to the leak. I have the tools to draw vacuum on the system and the low/high side gauges as well. If i can just replace the seal for 10 bucks and fix it, than thats all I'm out. I may even be able to take the clutch off with the compressor still on the car without removing the attached hoses and possibly creating more leaks with whatever old O rings are in between there.
Yes, a new compressor is at minimum $350. The R134a that was in there is already lost due to the leak. I have the tools to draw vacuum on the system and the low/high side gauges as well. If i can just replace the seal for 10 bucks and fix it, than thats all I'm out. I may even be able to take the clutch off with the compressor still on the car without removing the attached hoses and possibly creating more leaks with whatever old O rings are in between there.
I wouldn't. You want to have everything checked and clean. I'd remove the compressor and do it on a bench. You will need to replace the dryer.
I wouldn't. You want to have everything checked and clean. I'd remove the compressor and do it on a bench. You will need to replace the dryer.
So a few more quick questions.
1) Do I need to open the the compressor to get to the front shaft seal or can I just take off the clutch/pully and pull the seal out from the front?
2) Rock auto sells 4 Accumulator/Drier types. The one I have on the car has 2 charging ports. The only one on the site that seems to match that is the ac delco one. Is this because it has both an R12 and R134a low side port? Do the other 3 they sell have R12 ports or R134a ports?
So a few more quick questions.
1) Do I need to open the the compressor to get to the front shaft seal or can I just take off the clutch/pully and pull the seal out from the front?
2) Rock auto sells 4 Accumulator/Drier types. The one I have on the car has 2 charging ports. The only one on the site that seems to match that is the ac delco one. Is this because it has both an R12 and R134a low side port? Do the other 3 they sell have R12 ports or R134a ports?
Not sure. You have to look at the video. I never took mine apart. I just "cored" it and got a rebuilt unit.
IDK. I have a reman one with 1 port and I am fine. I don't believe you can have a high and low side on the dryer. The high side is before the condenser, or at least it is on mine. So, you do understand that GM might use that one for several models where the hose comes out easier on one side or the other, IOW it is more generic. Again, no worries.
Just food for thought but sometimes the fact that the seal is leaking is indicative of another problem within the compressor such as the bearing beginning to fail.
I would highly recommend pressure testing with dry nitrogen before you evacuate and recharge.
I may even be able to take the clutch off with the compressor still on the car without removing the attached hoses and possibly creating more leaks with whatever old O rings are in between there.
Your old R12 O rings should have been replaced with new R134a compatible O rings at the time the upgrade was done. If you still have R12 compatible O rings, they need to go! Your old hoses are suspect, too. The R134a will probably find its way thru the walls of your old hoses.
Just food for thought but sometimes the fact that the seal is leaking is indicative of another problem within the compressor such as the bearing beginning to fail.
I would highly recommend pressure testing with dry nitrogen before you evacuate and recharge.
What do you think is possible? That there is a lot of pressure build up? Maybe the high pressure switch is cutting out too late? Might be a good idea to change orifice and the switch?
What do you think is possible? That there is a lot of pressure build up? Maybe the high pressure switch is cutting out too late? Might be a good idea to change orifice and the switch?
Shaft play due to an internal mechanical problem, heat, lack of lubrication. I would guess that the shaft and seal are on the low pressure side of the compressor so I don't think a HP switch would be an issue.
Could be just a seal. I have the tools so if it were mine I would give it a shot but if I had to pay a shop to leak check and evacuate the system I might think about going ahead and springing for the compressor.
you need to remove the nose case in order to replace the front seal, I've had a 10pa pump apart, came off of my Honda.. besides you can get the seal kit for about $25 this includes the copper crush gaskets under the Cap Bolts..
So before I started, I ran Dye in the system. Turned on the compressor and let it cycles around the entire system. The only leak found under UV light was the one at the compressor front. Other than that, everything else appeared working.
Now I took off the front of the compressor to see what I was dealing with. As I work my way through it, I can see Dye on more and more parts which is pretty much a trail to the actual issue. I did spin the pully around after I took off the clutch to see if the bearing makes noise. It doesn't so it's intact. So far, there is dye all the way to the front shaft seal which leads me to think joeld is correct. Luckly, I have the front loading compressor, which means the seal can be pulled out from the front without taking it apart. I know this because the retaining clip is on the outside of the seal. Potentially, it can be done while still on the car but I won't chance it and do it on a bench like aklim suggested.
In terms of O rings. I don't know if they have been changed or not. In my experience with O rings in general, once you pull apart anything with old O rings, they will start leaking. I have spares ready. I think the only ones I should come across are the ones between the metal lines connecting to the top of the compressor.
I have enough pics to make a guide on how to do this when I'm done if anyone's interested.
A/C leak behind compressor clutch advice.
