What's involved with pulling the rear camber rods to r/r bushings? Do I need to release the spring or can it be conquered by raising the spindle/hub near ride height?

Why does the kit picture just two metal sleeves versus one for each end (4)? I've read some interesting posts that include everything from gluing the new bushes in...to concluding the bushes don't rotate...only the sleeves around the bolts do. Energy tech chat guy said the sleeves are stationary and the bushings rotate around them.

Where's the consistency/accuracy!?!?! Fake news....LOL

I don't have exhaust in the way because I'm running sidepipes.

If the rear is toed out slightly will that cause wear faster wear AND on the outer edge of tires?

 

You don't need to release the spring, just take tension off.
The installed bushings can be a PITA to get into the spindle hub.

 

I replaced mine with heim joints, so I cannot comment on that procedure.

The worn outer edge of the tire could mean toe IN (front of the tire pointed in towards the center of the car) OR it could mean the camber is off and the top of the tire is leaning out. It could be a combination of both if the bushings are worn and things are moving around as you drive.

 

Especially if the jack is positioned under the wheel to lift...and remove tension! I read someone used a jack to lift (press) the camber ends up into their mounting locations. Seems that would be a challenge if there's a jack already under the wheel! (Two jacks can't occupy the same space)

I'm trying to visualize a plan before heading down that road. Bushings will be here in a couple of days.

 

Oddly, the camber and toe look further out on that wheel (than the other side).

There MAY be some slop in my trailing arm bushings or, more likely, the camber rods. I was side-swiped a couple of years ago but I didn't replace bushings. I replaced the wheel bearings, toe rods, and half-shaft u-joints. But I didn't do the work. It was completed under an insurance claim.

Looking at the markers on the differential...for the camber rods, it would appear the passenger (worn) side has more negative camber. At least, the pointer is facing further outward...which (to me) implies the bottom of the wheel is further outward.

They had to align it after the parts install. Before the alignment (in pics), I see both sides were the same. After the alignment, the passenger (hit) side is adjusted with more negative camber. Since the camber rods don't look bent, I'm going to assume the bushing was compromised. I didn't notice faster wear on that side until this summer so maybe the bushing has gotten worse. I supposed the trailing arms could have more play too? That's why I'm replacing bushings....then installing new rear tires.

Since the toe rod was bent, I should pay close attention to any lateral play in the camber ends. Like I said, I didn't notice odd wear during the first couple of years after the repairs so the bushings seem like the most likely candidate. I suppose it's possible the bearing is failing on that side too. Haven't heard any bearing sounds but will check for lateral wheel movement when up the air.

I assume the sway bar has zero effect on tire wear and stability. When I'm done, the front/rear sway bars will be the only thing left I haven't redone in the suspension....That and the spring/B-wing bushings.

I'm at 80k miles on the clock.

 

My recommendation is unhook the spring or suffer the consequences of a worst case scenario if you have the camber rod off. Raise the car, put it on jack stands. Made about a 2" block that fit on the floor jack. Raised the end of the spring enough to take tension off the spring bolt. Having counted and measured the exposed threads, removed the cotter key and slowly lowered the spring. When done, carefully raise the spring and put the bolt back in, adjust it to the measurements you made before you disassembled it. Put the cotter key back in and carefully lower the spring to take up tension with the wheel. Lower the car.

I did that, only difference was not R&Ring the bushings, I upgraded to the Banski Suspension kit.

PS The worst case scenario I could imagine was with the camber rod off, jack slip and you now only have the half-shaft on that end and the thing try and roll under on you. Potentially damage and injury could be encountered. I didn't want to risk it myself which is why I unhooked the spring first.

 

Oh Hell yes! Not to mention some adverse handling.

 

LOL....Yesterday, I dropped it by my local Goodyear stop....the one I THOUGHT was super primo "with it". I wan't to check to make sure I didn't have any OTHER problems before swapping the bushings, mounting new rear tires, and aligning.

They looked for a whole 3-4 minutes and said my tire wear appeared to be over inflation. They didn't check alignment and didn't notice it's obviously out...in the rear. When I pointed that out TO THEM, they didn't seem to think it would cause premature wear. Because the DS is toed in (correct?) and the PS is toed out, the counter guy thought the butt-end would want to walk around to the right. Other than that, it wouldn't cause add'l wear.

Guess I know where NOT to go for an alignment!

I'm half tempted to try it myself when done. Basically, I'd make sure the right (adjustable, heim-link) toe rod is set the same on the PS as the DS (that hasn't worn). And, set the camber bars where it was when new (I still have pics that show me the setting). Again...move the PS into the DS setting...especially since they used to be set symmetrically before my last alignment. (as seen in car show pics).

I could use something like a 2x4 to "sight" down the side of the car...to make sure I've eliminated the RR toe-out...and feel it looks symmetrical. Might even consider setting twine parallel to each other on opposite sides of the car for visual/physical measurement.

 

The way I do alignments is really simple. I have sets of smooth ceramic tile with grease in between that act as my slip plates (allows the tires to slide freely as you make adjustments). Then I use angle iron up against the side of the tire (high enough not to contact the bulge at the bottom) with a tape measure in front and back of the tire. The difference on the tape front to back will give you a total toe measurement.

Then, in order to make sure they are even side to side, I place a magnetic laser level on the angle iron projected to the front. Using a scale/ruler/tape measure you read the distance from the center of the front hub to where the light beam crosses the measuring device. This measurement should be equal side to side (this measures the "thrust"). If not, adjust both sides evenly in/out until the measurements are the same side to side.

 

Same vote here, just did mine a month ago (and some other stuff). Taking the spring off and on is quick, much safer to do. Plus, easy to get stuff to ride height when torquing, always gives me the ******* when I raise to there with the spring and She comes off the jack stand!! The FSM calls for the spring bolts to be tightened until one can juuust get the cotter pin in place. That said, PO might have done some mischief.

To install the strut, top first and use a bottle jack on the bottom, pretty easy with Energy's sticky sticky grease.

 

Any business relationship I had with Goodyear ended the day they told my wife: "the reason your tire keeps going flat is because your husband puts too much air in it"

turned out that a patch the same people had previously put on hadn't sealed completely and had this little itty bitty leak, enough to lose air in two or three weeks

 

This is more than you need, I replaced my trailing arms, toe rods and camber rods with Banski components. If you are just replacing the camber rods bushings, the angle guide is about all you need.

Take a measure of the angle on the hub prior to disassembly with the spring unhooked, I put a jack stand under the bottom lug bolt so I could get a consistent measurement. Take the camber rod off the bottom of the knuckle. Mark the adjustable bolt on the center so you can get it close on reassembly then take that out. It may make it easier to pull the spare tire carrier first, provides more access. Do your bushings then reassemble in reverse order. Now with the digital gauge and put the jack stand back under that bottom lug bolt, adjust the angle close to what it was then tighten it all up. Once done, take it to a good shop and get a 4 wheel alignment.

I had more to do, replacing everything so I had a lot more to measure and align before I was done. Once I was done, I rolled the car in and out a few times then using the steel against each tire and measured them. I set them so they were parallel prior to taking the car out for an alignment. I thought it was good driving out to the shop, but it was great when I got back.

Hope that helps.