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Ive been thinking about the SR installation recently because of all the post saying what a PITA it is. Has anyone considered slightly drilling out the plenum to runner holes and tapping the runners? Since I dont actually have a SR, I was wondering why this hasnt been tried. Would it cause too much disruption in the air flow? Is it not possible to get a bolt in some areas? The way I see it, both pieces are aluminum, torque specs shouldnt change much, and installation of the plenum would only require removing the cover. Could this be done?
Re: Alternative SR installation question. (CORKVETTE1)
the plemnum is tapped you have to bring the screws up from the bottem that is the problem unless your last name is houdini its a nightmare :(
That's how I understand it, but why couldnt you tap the runners and drill out the plenum so installation goes in through the plenum instead of under the runners? Seems like you would possibly need slightly bigger bolts, but it also seems like it would save HUGE amount of time installing.
Re: Alternative SR installation question. (CORKVETTE1)
I think Scorp posted about this just recently. I think he re-tapped (maybe, I'm not a tap/dye master at all) the existing holes the same size as they were supposed to be, and they went in much easier. I think they're bad holes from the factory. Something like that anyhow, ask him. Whatever it was, he said it made a big difference in the install.
but Scorp, have you considered tapping the runners instead to install the bolts from the top down? Looking at the design, do you see it as being possible?
but Scorp, have you considered tapping the runners instead to install the bolts from the top down? Looking at the design, do you see it as being possible?
The inner ones, yes, the outter ones no. You would have to cut into the sides of the plenum wall to do it effectively if I remember right. In fact the inner ones ARE setup like that on the one I own.
I think the reason why they don't go down through the box into the runners is:
Where do ya think that bolt goes when it walks out? (Hint: it introduces itself to the tender underside of your motor)
The _other_ possibility is to just glue the F*** out of it with permatex gasket maker. Be forewarned, DISASSEMBLING it is a PITA. (I needed an engine hoist pulling up on the box and some careful, persistent, application of a rubber mallet to a flatheaded screwdriver...there's a fine line between adequate torque to remove and a warped airbox. (no, I didn't warp the airbox.)
It's at times like this I look at that LS1 intake and feel extreme jealousy.
Rocket what did you glue it on with? :D :D I only applied a VERY thing coat of RTV to my gaskets and the box came right off with a few light taps of a rubber mallet.
Thanks for the lesson guys. I dont have a SR so I didnt know what was possible. Wasnt sure if I was reinventing the wheel here or just had a stroke of genius. I guess we now know which one it was :D
permatex "Right Stuff" in the aerosol can. I got a little happy with it and put a 1/4" bead around the runner to box surfaces...the _second_ time I applied a thin coat with a paint scraper...kinda like frosting a cake. ;)
I've also heard of a guy that grinded a slot in the end of the bolt so it could be "helped" along with a screw driver once it was started.
Anyone else ever hear of this?
Re: Alternative SR installation question. (VetteNoob)
Ok, here's my experience with the SR. First of all, the castings are S*&%. (same quality as my Accell big tube runners) The flanges that mate up to the SR plenum are not parallel, and therefore, not flat. Mine were out about .035". LPE just tells you slather on more RTV. Had mine machined so they are squared up and flat.
My idea was to heli coil the runners so you could install the bolts from the top down. Works like a charm, and you don't have to worry about stripping out that soft aluminum. We did all but a few of the outer ones that were too tight to fit a bolt or allen head capscrew in next to the wall of the plenum.
It's time con$uming, but so is dropping those dang tiny bolts in your valvetrain. (which I avoided)
I've also heard of a guy that grinded a slot in the end of the bolt so it could be "helped" along with a screw driver once it was started.
Anyone else ever hear of this?
Bob
I was one of many that did that. It helped...kinda. Sure wish I didn't have to do it in the first place! :smash:
I've also heard of a guy that grinded a slot in the end of the bolt so it could be "helped" along with a screw driver once it was started.
Anyone else ever hear of this?
Mine was like that. I ran the bolts up with a tiny screwdriver, then stuck a wrench under the plenum to tighten them. I can't imagine having to run them up completely from underneath the plenum.
Nothing ever lined up on mine either. You had to get all the bolts started before you could tighten any of them. Don't tighten the runners before installing the plenum.
You better have some ball-end allen wrenches too.
The best thing I ever did was sell the SR and buy a Mini Ram for my old L98.