Originally Posted by Joe C

since I don't know what you're doing with you AC system, not sure I can comment on the choice of parts, especially the evaporator core. if you are buying a new core though, I wouldn't think you would need a repair kit. if you are replacing the evaporator core and if it's not supplied with a new orifice tube, might as well replace it. as for the rest of the parts, AC Delco is usually a good choice. as for the FPR - since overall quality today seems to be hit or miss today, I personally would choose the standard motor over the delco in this case. I have purchased the delco "professional" in the past, and it wouldn't hold pressure. seems the finish on the sealing button is the problem. some members have polished the button and that corrected the inherent problem.

for the EGR, here's a delco OE replacement - http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....041286&jsn=776 - note that it's less expensive than the "professional" -

looks like you've got most everything covered, other than fuel line O-rings (fuel filter and fuel line to fuel rail), and maybe an orifice tube. off the top of my head, can't think of anything else. maybe someone else can step in and comment -

Originally Posted by ZEROVETTE7

thx Joe as usual very helpful
as for the AC I did the conversion to R134 replaced condenser and o-rings all was ok , until the AC technician found leak in the evaporator, Donno still if it can be fixed, so I’m looking for a replacement just Incase.
The EGR mentioned above someone from summit said it Does not fit 91! Donno how accurate is that.
Fuel line o-ring I’m looking at a set @ AutoRock not finalized yet.
Getting there slowly

Originally Posted by ZEROVETTE7

I tried-did the compression test and results as follows:
#1 = 109

#2 = 110

#3 = 109

#4 = 108

#5 = 108

#6 = 109

#7 = 110

#8 = 110

thoughts?? A really appreciate your feedback guys to know how to proceed.
TIA

Originally Posted by Joe C

my 2-cents, FWIW -- while some may consider 108-110 to be low, what's important is all cylinders are pretty even - overall average, difference between high and low cylinder, and difference between any two adjacent cylinders are important factors. besides the gauge accuracy, now the question, was the engine warm, throttle body wide open, and how many crank pulses to obtain those readings. 109 +/- 1 psi, across the board, is pretty incredible, and IMO, somewhat questionable. what happened to that 50psi reading on #7 in your previous post?

Originally Posted by ZEROVETTE7

thanks Joe, actually the first time was done i wasn’t convinced as the mechanic did not shared the readings, just informed me that # 7 is problematic with 50psi only!! So I took the car to a known garage (I guess more professional or knowledgeable) and got the above readings.
The question is do I have to go for a rebuild now or I can stil drive it for a while and once all the parts I want for the Mods I’m planning to do are with me, then, I’ll go for the rebuild with modifications?

Originally Posted by Joe C

you're the only one that can make that determination. how does the car feel to you? if you feel it has sufficient power, keep driving it. if it's running rough and feels like it won't get out of it's own way, maybe a rebuild is in order. couple questions, how's the oil consumption, oil pressure, operating temps, etc.. typically 110 on the compression is near the low end, but IMO, acceptable as long as there is not 10% between the high and low readings. I still suspect the readings since you're within 2 psi across the board. to me, those numbers are too close. usually when pressure readings are around 100 psi, a second test may be in order. dump about 5cc engine oil into each plug hole and run another compression test. If the readings jump, the rings maybe worn. if not, it just may only be valves and/or valve seats. I would run a second test and perform a cylinder leak down test before considering any rebuild. personally, I wouldn't panic with 110 readings if everything else seemed right. (just my 2-cents)