C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

4+3 suddenly very difficult to shift

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Old Dec 1, 2017 | 07:42 AM
  #21  
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After much deliberation, I've decided to fix it myself. The fact that there was still fluid in the reservoir implies to me there isn't a leak anywhere, and that in fact either the slave or master cylinder has a bad o-ring (or something like that). Looking online, those seem to both be a simple fix and relatively cheap (~$50 total from Rockauto), so I will tackle on a weekend coming up. Probably change transmission and rear differential fluid while I've got it up in the air, just for peace of mind.

Fun times!
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Old Dec 2, 2017 | 07:54 AM
  #22  
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Thanks for the reply-yes the clutch has been fussy for a little while. The other issues I’ve been having would suggest a clutch not fully ENGAGING-so I don’t know what’s up.

Im hoping this issue is the clutch hydraulics. I strongly suspect a straight up failure of one of the pistons. The previous clutch issues were mildly annoying but not really getting worse. This issue went from “hmm, that was a little hard to put into gear” to completely unable to shift in under 48 hours. Something completely broke. It’s true it could be something in the actual clutch, but considering how much easier the hydraulics are to fix I plan to start there. In this case I wouldn’t describe it as being fussy-it completely stopped working and nothing I’ve done has really helped at all.

curious-if I were to take the current slave cylinder off the transmission, and depressed the clutch pedal, would I be able to see it move? Would that tell me anything? I suspect not but might try it as long as there’s no danger of the piston shooting off or something.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Bfenty
After much deliberation, I've decided to fix it myself. The fact that there was still fluid in the reservoir implies to me there isn't a leak anywhere, and that in fact either the slave or master cylinder has a bad o-ring (or something like that). Looking online, those seem to both be a simple fix and relatively cheap (~$50 total from Rockauto), so I will tackle on a weekend coming up. Probably change transmission and rear differential fluid while I've got it up in the air, just for peace of mind.

Fun times!

I recently expereanced the exact same thing.…did u change the cylinders? If so did it fix the issue? And if so what exactly did u change.

Thanks for the info
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:07 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by fflumpy
I recently expereanced the exact same thing.…did u change the cylinders? If so did it fix the issue? And if so what exactly did u change.

Thanks for the info
changed both master and slave cylinders. The replacement worked for a while then quit. I think the replacement master I bought was the culprit. I’ve had it recommended to me to have the originals rebuilt instead of buying replacements and I would agree with that assessment.
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Old Mar 25, 2018 | 05:49 PM
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Some of the other forums i read cautioned that when u change, one has to be diligent on bleading the system. By the GM book. Also one member stated that they had the same thing happen and they used DOT 5 and had no issues after changing the brake fluid. FYI

Had the system pumped and fluid changed last year (my guy told me that he had to scrap sludge out of the bottom of the reservoir). New fluid prob freaked the system out! 😂 I check my fluid and it looks a little dark for just being changed. Read that that could be a symptom of the master going.

Im going to go ahead and order parts from NAPA and replace both. For under a hundred bucks and a day of my time it’s worth it to find out before i take it somewhere…plus i would have to either trailer it or drive it over in 4th lol. Ill keep the old parts just in case.

Thanks for the info. Let me know where and how the rebuild goes.
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