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Ok Forum members, my son in law and I took the steering column apart to do some work on my 95, my question is what goes into the circled part of this picture. Nothing was there when we took it apart but it’s a threaded hole so I’m asking for help, thanks.
Last edited by thornton310; Jan 7, 2018 at 09:05 PM.
Reason: Added picture
That's the tilt pin - there's 2 - the female threads are for removal.
Why did your tear into the column?
We replaced the turn signal indicator and noticed that there was a lot of free play with the steering wheel so we decided that since we were already there, we would take a look.
Another question is that there is a space between the wiper switch and rod for the high beam selector, what goes there, the car was on high beam always when I bought it about a year and a held ago, and the has to be some kind of rob that connects the two, just not sure what. Thanks
We replaced the turn signal indicator and noticed that there was a lot of free play with the steering wheel so we decided that since we were already there, we would take a look.
Another question is that there is a space between the wiper switch and rod for the high beam selector, what goes there, the car was on high beam always when I bought it about a year and a held ago, and the has to be some kind of rob that connects the two, just not sure what. Thanks
See the Bent Rod just Right of your Circled Area, That is the High Beam Rod There is a Plastic Shoe that Pushes against. It should be a Greasy part that Probably fell out when you took it apart, If it wasn't there it was Probably left out by others it can be a Bear/Annoying to get in because it's lays in place inside one of the covers around it's little plastic Stud and if you don't get it in just rite it may slide over the rod and the dimmer work and you would have the play.
We replaced the turn signal indicator and noticed that there was a lot of free play with the steering wheel
Please describe the "free play" you are seeing. Up-down, or side-to-side?
If you decide to pull those pivot pins, here's what I made to pull those pins: SAE(!) 8-32 allen head screw. After the screw is threaded into the pivot pin, hold the screw stationary while you turn the nut to pull the pin.
Please describe the "free play" you are seeing. Up-down, or side-to-side?
If you decide to pull those pivot pins, here's what I made to pull those pins: SAE(!) 8-32 allen head screw. After the screw is threaded into the pivot pin, hold the screw stationary while you turn the nut to pull the pin.
its a side to side movement, has been that way since I bought it almost 2 years ago.
I had to improvise pulling the pins just like Roy did. But my recollection is that the threads were 5mm Metric, not SAE. .
My '84 was at the transition time between SAE and Metric, so maybe I'm weird. I was very surprised to find SAE threads! The center "star" headed bolt for my telescopic adjustment steering wheel is also SAE, but the threads to pull my steering wheel are Metric! So much fun!
There are 4 bolts under the turn signal switch that get loose and cause movement.
Those bolts are way below the "tilt" pins, and on my car, require another weird tool, an E8 Star Spline Socket wrench! And those are metric!
You have a lot going on there. The pin on the left side isn't seated for starters. It as well as the one on the other side need to be fully seated. The pin would be flush or nearly flush when inserted correctly.
Yours is way worse than 'typical' - you'll need to start at the top of the column and disassemble likely for diagnostics.
If user pcolt94 were close to you I'd try to get him to advise you. I'm quite sure he's been in a later C4 column with issues. I believe he's also quite close to you. Maybe reach out to him!!
You have gone to areas that I have not in the column. I replaced my key ignition assembly went down thru the top and stopped there. But years ago we had a Firebird with a similar problem using the same swivel pins. I could not get them to stay in. If the pin is loose there is a lot of play. It looks like the housing the pin is pushed into is enlarged so the pin won't stay in. I don’t know if a spot of arc welding (wire welder) may be added and then filed down will make a tighter fit. I don’t know how that metal will respond the heat (don’t know if it is cast). But just a thought about getting some additional friction in the holes. Possible some epoxy might work or similar idea. (I would not use 5 min epoxy IMO)
I can't comment on the tilt wheel if there is any damage to the pivot point. But I have heard that when people get in and out of the car they use the steering wheel as a leverage point to get themselves in and out. Not good to yank on the wheel. This may or may not cause the tilt wheel problem you have.
There was a great web page (site) when I did my wheel. Unfortunately it vanished as it had a lot of pictures and step by step instructions. If I find anything else on my computer I will post it.
You can get the specialty tools (free) from AutoZone for the column for the spring loaded lock plate.
Last edited by pcolt94; Jan 11, 2018 at 09:38 PM.
Reason: Better define
Thornton, I recently rebuilt my '84 column, but yours is much worse than mine was. I only have 240,000 miles on mine! I haven't rebuilt a "late model" column, but from what I can see from your video and from several You-Tube video's, they aren't much different than mine.
Your pivot pins are toast! The pivot pin holes in the aluminum castings are worn out. Those pins should be a press fit in the casting, and should not wiggle. The "bowl" bolts in the next level deeper in the column are also loose.
There have been some who rebuild these castings, and make oversize pivot pins, but that's quite a project. Are you up to that kind of work?
OP - You mentioned 'taking column apart' - how far did you disassemble the column when you were attempting whatever you did.
You need to remove, air bag, steering wheel, the lock plate, directional switch and upper shroud to make both of the pivot pins visible. Getting that deep into the column you could maybe diagnose. If you were that deep into the column and actually separated the tilt housing from the support maybe most of your current issue is 'self inflicted'. Was the 'wobble' as bad before you started the column repair you mention attempting?
The 4 E8 bolts in a column that isn't column shifted isn't generally an issue. It's wise to address them while there but seldom responsible for the issues yours displays in the video.
The 4 E8 bolts in a column shifted column are nearly always responsible. I believe that 3 can be reached with minimal disassembly in a column shifted column and that's how many are generally secured. I imagine IHBD has done a 3 bolt tighten in a S/T10 'column shifted' column.
I actually believe the plate might have been removed in a column revision late '86 for the C4.
For typical Saginaw tilt columns this is a quite good reference, it's a Fiero column with park/lock lever but aside that it's quite good. Your '94 wiper, pivot & directional control is different from the '90 - '93. That's why I suggested 'Pcolt94'. I thought I recalled him doing directional and wiper/pivot.
So I came up with the same link that WVZR-1 posted in the last post.
But here is my thread right after I did my ignition switch. (Advice and pointers). It is basically my experience of how things went that might answer some questions of what to watch out for. It might help of what to expect when going down into the column.
What goes here
