My seat bladders do not work. 1) must the key be on or engine running? 2) what is the purpose of switch and 3 buttons? 3) hold down the switch while pushing a button? 4) is the bladder inside the bottom cushion only? 5) is there only a P/S motor or both sides? Fuse is good.

 

Key on Not sure, But I don't Think So.
When you push the Rocker Switch Do you Hear the Pump?
Have you Taken a Basic $1.99 Harbor Freight Test Light to the Pump Power Leads, to confirm if power is getting to the Pump if is not Running?

Now When in normal Operation you FILL the Bladders and the 3 Buttons Release 1 button for each Bladder. Holding pump switch and a Bladder Button No pressure will Build.

 

Anyone have pictures with step by step fix of the pump with pictures?

Is there a tech repair sticky somewhere on the seat lumber bladder repair?

 

Well, I did it myself! I popped up both front seats and unbolted the pumps and rebuilt in the car. There are three bolts that hold each air pump to the floor. The nuts are facing upward and can be loosened with a 1/4" drive with 3/8" socket for the two side-by-side, and the third one with a small 5/16 socket from underneath. There is a cap with two screws on the end, and then the pump slides out. The diaphragm was deteriorated. You take out the four screws and the diaphragm about falls out. The nipple slides off the shaft. Lay a towel under the pump to catch anything that falls. The diaphragm has a screw in the center to hold it on to the nipple. Take the screw out by by holding the nipple with pliers. Note that the screw has a rubber washer under it. I made a new diaphragm by cutting up and old dish washing glove. It is the size of a 50 cent piece. I punched a little hole in the center with an ice pick. To reassemble, I put the screw with the rubber washer thru the hole in the new home-made diaphragm, then used the center section from the deteriorated diaphragm as a washer. So the new diaphragm was sandwiched in between. Take your time laying the new part onto the pump with nipple side up and the hole oriented to line up onto the shaft. Replace the end-cap and four screws. Slide the parts together and then the cover with the two screws. Bolt everything back in reverse order. Side note: On the drivers side you need to take off the four nuts on the switch to get to the one nut on the pump. It took a couple of hours to do the whole job and the pump inflates the bladders. If the bladders leak you need to take the seat backs apart. Glad I never had to do it.

 

More pictures! I hope this helped.

 

Well, its been 4 years, how did this repair hold up over time?
Anything you would do different?
Im ready to tear into this job myself and thinking about using a thin bike tire tube for my rubber diaphragm instead of the glove.

Appreciate any insight after 4 years of use.

thank you!

bigredbrad

 

Car has sold twice since then, but is still working. The latest owner called me about buying the car, and I told him about it,

 

Sounds good, thank you for the pictures and information.

Bigredbrad