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Is there a thread or link to a step by step article for replacing the oil pan gasket on my 1990 coupe?
How long does the job usually take? I already have the 1 piece gasket. I am trying to decide if I want to tackle this myself or just pay someone to do it.
I don't know how much different a 90 is compared to my 84 but my oil pan wasn't too bad to get out other than having to drop the starter and this dustshield on the back of the bell housing. If you take your time, two hour job tops unless there is a major difference. I had the engine at tdc on number 1 by the way.
I don't know how much different a 90 is compared to my 84 but my oil pan wasn't too bad to get out other than having to drop the starter and this dustshield on the back of the bell housing. If you take your time, two hour job tops unless there is a major difference. I had the engine at tdc on number 1 by the way.
On a 1994 I had to unbolt motor mounts and raise the front of the engine. Not a bad job, but take your time and make sure the gasket is seated correctly, especially in the front.
if you're working from the bottom of the engine, the job goes a whole lot easier if, instead of using the oil pan oem cap screws, you use studs screwed into the block, and then fit the gasket over them first, the studs will tend to hold the gasket up in place while you fit the pan in place and screw the nuts onto the studs.
if you're working from the bottom of the engine, the job goes a whole lot easier if, instead of using the oil pan oem cap screws, you use studs screwed into the block, and then fit the gasket over them first, the studs will tend to hold the gasket up in place while you fit the pan in place and screw the nuts onto the studs.
I got an oil pan gasket set that came with four plastic posts, similar to studs They hold the gasket in place while one installs all the other screws.
Felpro? Look for a pic, see if there are four blue sticks.
On a 1994 I had to unbolt motor mounts and raise the front of the engine. Not a bad job, but take your time and make sure the gasket is seated correctly, especially in the front.
I"m in process to change the gasket on a 1995 coupe. By how much do I need to raise the engine?
Anything to unplug from the engine when lifting such as power steering pump to rack hose?
Where did you hook up to raise the engine?
BTW, I got misled cause in the service manual in "Oil pan remove" they never talk about raising the engine.... in the "Install" the list the steps and one of them is "lower engine"..... (!)
I"m in process to change the gasket on a 1995 coupe. By how much do I need to raise the engine?
Anything to unplug from the engine when lifting such as power steering pump to rack hose?
Where did you hook up to raise the engine?
BTW, I got misled cause in the service manual in "Oil pan remove" they never talk about raising the engine.... in the "Install" the list the steps and one of them is "lower engine"..... (!)
Thanks.
Mine is an 84 but when I pulled mine all I had to do was make sure the counterweight was up in front. Otherwise I slipped it right out.
I buy a spray can of that light tacky glue. Spray a light coat, stick the gasket on the pan, let it dry..I usually put the bolts back in the pan to keep the holes aligned. They just drop in.
I"m in process to change the gasket on a 1995 coupe. By how much do I need to raise the engine?
Anything to unplug from the engine when lifting such as power steering pump to rack hose?
Where did you hook up to raise the engine?
BTW, I got misled cause in the service manual in "Oil pan remove" they never talk about raising the engine.... in the "Install" the list the steps and one of them is "lower engine"..... (!)
Thanks.
I was doing a cam swap. But from what I recall, you will need to disconnect radiator hoses and transmission coolant lines from the radiator if you have an automatic. Each motor mount has one bolt. Easy. I then got a flat piece of wood about 1" thick about the size of the oil pan. I placed the wood under the oil pan and used it to ptotect the oil pan while using the hydraulic jack to raise the engine...SLOWLY. Watch your firewall from on top for clearance as you jack it up. Once the engine is up a couple of inches, or the firewall clearance is reached I had two pieces of hardwood about 1 1/2" X 1 1/2 inch and about 3" long. (Home Depot is your friend) I stuffed one in each side where the motor mounts separate when you raise the engine. Then lower your hydraulic jack and change the oil pan gasket. The wood pieces support the engine just fine. No issues at all. I had to do this to get my camshaft to clear, as well. Reverse to lower the engine and replace the mount bolts. Mine is a 1994, but I assume it is the same process.
I was doing a cam swap. But from what I recall, you will need to disconnect radiator hoses and transmission coolant lines from the radiator if you have an automatic. Each motor mount has one bolt. Easy. I then got a flat piece of wood about 1" thick about the size of the oil pan. I placed the wood under the oil pan and used it to ptotect the oil pan while using the hydraulic jack to raise the engine...SLOWLY. Watch your firewall from on top for clearance as you jack it up. Once the engine is up a couple of inches, or the firewall clearance is reached I had two pieces of hardwood about 1 1/2" X 1 1/2 inch and about 3" long. (Home Depot is your friend) I stuffed one in each side where the motor mounts separate when you raise the engine. Then lower your hydraulic jack and change the oil pan gasket. The wood pieces support the engine just fine. No issues at all. I had to do this to get my camshaft to clear, as well. Reverse to lower the engine and replace the mount bolts. Mine is a 1994, but I assume it is the same process.
Thanks!
No issue with power steering line to rack? And no issues with squishing the gasket and creating leaks when you re-jacked the car from the pan? Thinking of cam as well... but for next winter project.