Mass air flow sensor brand
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 3,752
Likes: 276
From: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Just buy the correct year MAF sensor for your C4s manufacture date, there are differences over the years. and any old MAF sensor will not work.
Note stay away from the non hot wire MAF's out there, they are not suited to C4's with a hot wire type.
I made that mistake buying from Corvette Central, they sent some cheap copy that loos totally different inside. They wont warranty electrical items, i found out later that the one they sent will not work on my C4.
Needless to say i will never deal with Corvette Central again.
So look at the MAF you are buying, is the number on the underside the same? does it look identical with air venturi and hot wire?
If not look else where.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 396
Likes: 58
From: Katy Texas
I have exchanged a few emails with Spectra Premium on their new MAF to make sure the burn off circuit is in place and activated. I gave up when no one could tell me.
Ive seen issues with some of the reman units not having the circuit and overall bad quality control.
Id buy a brand new unit from someone that could confirm the burn circuit - can anyone here recommend a specific brand?
Just looked at the BlowerWorks unit and it looks nice but requires a software change.
Ive seen issues with some of the reman units not having the circuit and overall bad quality control.
Id buy a brand new unit from someone that could confirm the burn circuit - can anyone here recommend a specific brand?
Just looked at the BlowerWorks unit and it looks nice but requires a software change.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Well the reason I’m looking to replace it is because I’m getting code 36 and have ordered new relays but I’m reading that people have that code and replace the relays only to have code 36 pop up again. I was hoping someone who has used the computer chip style MAF from Spectre would be able to review it.
Last edited by CES760; Feb 18, 2018 at 03:18 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 984
Likes: 154
From: Columbia MD
It was pretty obvious looking at the new MAF that it didn't use a hot-wire style sensor so the MAF burn-off test probably wasn't needed or supported.
I purchased TunerCat and reprogrammed my ECM to eliminate the MAF burn-off test and while I was at it I reprogrammed the 4+3 overdrive to default to OFF. I may also reprogram to eliminate the VATS if it ever starts causing me trouble.
All the above is to say, getting TunerCat is a way to eliminate the code 36 and provides other benefits too.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 1,714
Likes: 331
Finalist 2020 C4 of the Year - Unmodified
Chasing the same on my '87, tried three different MAFs and 2 sets of relays, checked the wiring, checked voltages via Cliff's method.
The ECM can be very picky about the "burn complete" signal sent from the MAF. Most new MAFs don't have burn at all.
Modify the memcal, turn it off.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 750
Likes: 86
From: St Petersburg
Last edited by BillDurant; Feb 24, 2018 at 04:19 PM.
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Racer
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 396
Likes: 58
From: Katy Texas
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 62,160
Likes: 1,733
From: Athens AL
C7 of the Year - Unmodified Finalist 2021
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For this, you go with Bosch or Delco if you can find it.
If you replace the MAF, you should also replace both relays behind the batter on the firewall.
If you replace the MAF, you should also replace both relays behind the batter on the firewall.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 8,735
Likes: 413
From: WV
WW
Last edited by WW7; Feb 26, 2018 at 12:02 PM.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
I am diagnosing my MAF on a 96. The red wire is hot and remains around 12.4 volt engine running and not (ign on). The black is ground. he yellow reads 5.4v with ignition on, engine not running and just under the red voltage when engine is running. No fluctuation with engine speed. Is that the correct voltage for the yellow wire?
Racer
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 396
Likes: 58
From: Katy Texas
So far I have gone through about a dozen start cycles while driving around and so far, no friggin code 36!
The unit is nearly identical to my old Bosch unit but is lighter in weight. The wire setup in the air flow is different, oriented sideways in the airflow and smaller.
Car seems to idle better but that may simply be because the old one was dieing. I also updated the O2 sensor for good measure. At 63000 miles it appeared to be original.
So far, I am quite pleased with the result and will keep this thread updated with my experiences.