C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Headlight terretts syndrome

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Old May 15, 2018 | 09:33 AM
  #21  
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PS: A cheap set of Harbor Freight pin punches work good on the roll pins.

The vette dealer had a plastic bushing kit too that helped tighten everything up.
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Old May 15, 2018 | 09:56 AM
  #22  
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What some people fail to realize is that ..inside the motor there are really thin washers used as shims.

SO..how can anyone assume that the bronze gear is machined to exacting tolerances.???

Put in the bronze gear if you want and I hope that it does not bind or cause problems.

Seriously...there are such 'bigger fish to fry' when it comes to repairing a Corvette that worrying about these headlight gears is a waste of time. And why did I write this....because GM did design the two wire design motors so they can be locked in the UP position if needed. Which I am sure all of you were completely aware of that.

DUB
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Old Jul 9, 2018 | 11:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by DUB
I understand that is more than one way to do something.

All I can say is that video is laughable.

Using a flat blade on a Torx screw...need I say more. And I wondered who it was that messed up all of those Torx fasteners I have had to deal with.

There was nothing wrong with the white plastic gear. It was the pellets that disintegrated into a powder. That is what those pellets are designed to do. It saved the gear. The reason I know it was not the plastic gear itself...is becasue the headlight assembly fully rotated. IF the gear was wiped out...it would have stopped its swing when it hit that area on the gear that was wiped out and it would just sit there and hang.

Using a drill bit to knock out a roll pin is asking for trouble. Hopefully any of you who follow this practice do not run into the roll pin snapping in half (long ways) and then it can not be used and you have to go get another one. Use the correct tool for the job. They do make roll pin punches.





Disconnecting the wiring harness for the headlights and not correctly securing it to the side marker light like GM did....is just asking for problems.

On that year model..there is a fuse that can be taken out right by the left side marker light that turns off the under hood lights. So no need on disconnecting the wiring connectors.





The way I do it...There is NO NEED to remove the entire headlight assembly to do this on either headlight motor design. That way...you do not have to try to get them set back in with good gaps.

Best of luck to those who do this.

DUB
DUB, I'm very interested in how you do this without removing the headlight assembly. Could you elaborate on the procedure or point to a post that explains it? Thanks!
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 10:17 AM
  #24  
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I went with aluminum gears .A little heavier than plastic, but well worth it. Kit cost $100
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Old Jul 10, 2018 | 06:53 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by vthokie67
DUB, I'm very interested in how you do this without removing the headlight assembly. Could you elaborate on the procedure or point to a post that explains it? Thanks!
What is the year model??? Becasue there is the TWO -WIRE motor and THREE -WIRE motor...which are different. PM me.

DUB
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Old Sep 8, 2018 | 07:25 PM
  #26  
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Help! I have the 2 wire motor out, but cannot get the gear/shaft to release from the housing. What is the trick? I do not want to break anything.

Never mind, it just takes a LOT of force to get it out! Now I have to find a roll pin since mine split down the middle.... Grrrrrrrrrrr

Last edited by IowaClass65; Sep 8, 2018 at 07:54 PM.
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