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anyone know where to go to get an alternator rebuilt in the Detroit area? I picked up a rebuild and it don't work :mad i still have my original, and would prefer to just get it rebuilt.
:cheers:
It should be under warranty! Maybe exchange it for a new one "not rebuilt". It's worth the extra couple of dollars. :smash:
i just bought the rebuild last week, so i can still return it for full refund...it never worked and i never returned the core yet, i have heard that having a good shop do a rebuild will be more reliable than a mass market rebuild.
is there any difference with a '94 alternator vs what he has in that tech tip? also, where should i go to buy alternator parts, i looked up a volt regulator at autozone and they want ~$130 :crazy:
I'm a broken record on this subject. I generally prefer a local rebuild. Try the yellow pages, automotive/automobile-electrical. There should be a bunch of 'em. Or, automotive-alternators/starters. Some do both.
Should you find one close by, consider visiting the shop, look around, ask if they will rebuild and return what you bring in. Look for some good test equipment and a place that has been in business for some time.
If most are quite far away, call and ask if they will rebuild your unit. Ask too if they will bench check before rebuilding. It would be impolite to ask if they have gray hair and have been in the business for 20 years. That's why I like to visit. Some of them folks really know their stuff.
ok guys, here's the latest on this...i took back the rebuild, and it tested good at the place i bought it, i returned it, and also brought in my battery and alternator (the old ones) to get tested, they also both tested good. When i put them back in the car, i start having the battery light flicker right away, then it might work for a while, but every time i hit a bump it stops charging for a few seconds...and eventually it just stops charging all together, unless i am making a left turn :confused: then it charges all the way through the turn and stops when i straighten up.
I checked all the connections to the battery, and the connections directly on the alternator. Does it sound like some other connection is loose...or could a bad alternator act this way? what other connections should i check? please help!!!
The voltage regulator is inside the alternator so there is only the connections on the alternator. I'd bet the starter solenoid wires are the culprit. I've seen them get burned on the exhaust and cause the same thing. :smash:
The voltage regulator is inside the alternator so there is only the connections on the alternator. I'd bet the starter solenoid wires are the culprit. I've seen them get burned on the exhaust and cause the same thing. :smash:
that would be :cool: if that was the problem...i'll check it out tonight and post the results.
Reach your hand up to the large feed wire and see if any of the wires are loose. :chevy
as far as i can tell those wires are ok...now here is the strange thing...i was checking out connections and such and took the car for a test drive...i found that if I apply pressure to the bottom of the steering wheel (push it towards the front of the car) then the battery light comes on, and the volts drop to 12.5 or less, so i am on battery only then...when i press on the top of the wheel the light goes away and the volts go back up to high 13's to low 14's :confused:
is there something in the steering column that could be loose and shut down charging? the other times it stops charging are on hard braking and right hand turns, so i am pretty sure my alternator is fine and something else is just loose...any more ideas...i am getting frustrated :smash:
I would check all the connections on the steering column. Do you have tilt steering? You need to check the operation of the ignition switch mechanism. Sounds like the rod that goes down to the switch may need to be adjusted. :smash: