Originally Posted by mtwoolford

Are you going to reuse the original pistons? if not, consider rather than investing $180 to "recondition" the stock rods, for $310 you can get a set of forged Eagle rods from summit , summit # ESP-FS15700B, with 7/16th inch (not oem 3/8ths inch) rod bolts which should eliminate "the real weak llnk on these motors".

These rods are for a bushed / floating wrist pin so (you see where this is going) you would need a new set of pistons also. But that would allow you to get a true flat top piston, and the stockers are far from "flat" for a small bump in compression; say 9.5 to 10.0; or in the case of a 350 I built with 58 c.c. heads, a thin shim style head gasket and flat top pistons, from whatever stock was with a stock (thick) composition head gasket and stock pistons (slight dish and four valve reliefs) to 10.9. And no, I had no problems with pre ignition or "pinging" but I was running a cam with a considerable amount of duration (first generation chevy 345 horse crate motor cam). And I used 91 octane gas...but I bet you use that already.

Originally Posted by RandomTask

Using the original pistons. Everything was in really good shape; hone is just because I have it apart.

I will call and ask them about balancing w/ the FW. Since it's an injected motor, then you have to get a tune which is even more. My original goal was a good motor, absolutely don't care about more power. I have every reason to believe the way I'm setup should last plenty.

Originally Posted by Richardash

If the races or ***** of my bearings are damaged, I have no option but to replace these parts. On the other hand, if my bearings have no cracks or visual irregularities, it’s possible to fix a bearing myself.