The GM Factory Refurbished Transmission in my 93 has failed after 5,000 miles. I was concerned when this would happen after having the engine built to a 383 Stroker. I've got around 475 torque / and 450 h.p. and I'm running a Yank 3200 Converter. Any recommendations would be appreciated. I will also be installing a Transmission Cooler, due to learning my lesson through an expensive experience! Thanks.

 

Several people here (Arbee, IHBD) have their favorite combinations. Here's mine, and it is essentially the unit I built for my car. I sell many of these variations and people seem happy with them on the street.

The 700/4L60/5/E has been refined and strengthened over the years. This is fortunate, because many of the newer, stronger, parts will retro back into the older units.

Retro Parts:

Newer "E" forward sprag and races. (A Must)

Heavy Center Support and "E" L/R Sprag. (You probably have this.)

"E" Steel Pistons and Retainer in the input drum.

13 Vane Pump Rotor and Slide. (Personal preference)

Aftermarket Upgrade Parts:

1/2" Boost.

Hard Shell.

ALTO Red 3/4. (Not a must, but I like them. Other options are available to add elements to the 3/4, like the "Z-Pack")

Sonnax Floating Accumulators

Sonnax Wide Bushing for the rear sun. (Helps keep the center of the transmission running true.)

Kevlar 2/4 Band. (Personal favorite, because they're so hard. But, there are many options here.)

Sonnax checkball capsule replacement in the servo bore or a plug.

They make a 5 pinion rear planetary some people like also.

Unless your unit has been replaced, it should have the large servo option already.

If you want to add a nice pan or a drain plug, this would be a good time to do that.

Any competent transmission shop should be able to look at that list, understand it, and install these parts for not a ginormous increase over a stock rebuild cost.

If they can't do that, find someone else.

Good luck!!

 

Everything confab has given is on the money. As with anything, these boxes can only be built so strong and if you can't do your own rebuilds, then unfortunately, you have to "pay if you want to play". Use quality parts and stress to your builder to pay attention to clearance tolerances. If you know anyone in your local racing scene, ask for builder references.

 

Many thanks for the list of parts! Would you have recommendations on a Torque Converter? The Yank 3200 will need to be returned for cleaning, and I was thinking of reducing the stall some. Before my problem, it seemed to slip unless you were accelerating hard. I'd never had an after market converter before, so this may be normal.

 

Everyone here has different preferences, and it really should be matched to the cam.

IMO, 3200 is a lot of stall on the street and stall is heat. Personally, I wouldn't go beyond about 22 or 24 on a street car.

Personally, I'm running a factory converter from a Buick Grand National that bumps my stall up into the 18-19 hundred range and it is fine for what I do.

Good luck!!

 

Stall will be dictated by cam. When you send converter back give them all the engine and car info. Then see what stall speed is suggested. If engine is on the "radical" side it may come up with the same stall speed. Higher stall speed builds heat, you may want a cooler with cooling fan

 

PS: I run coolers in line with the rad cooler, as opposed to simply eliminating it.

You can have them add 8 or 10 thousandths or so on the feed holes in the sep plate and firm the shifts up without a formal "shift kit"

 

just for info my 383 ate my 700r4 a year ago,

I had it rebuilt by a known local shop (the guy who does the auto's in his 80's) and looking at my reciept it has most of the recommendations by Confab in his list. I also had the Transgo full shift kit installed.

Gotta say the trans is performing well - I am using a 3200 stall converter in mine (its been in the car for a few years now) and Im pretty happy with it.

As someone said - TV cable adjustment is real important !

The stock trans with a 3200 converter lasted a lot longer than I thought it would using Castrol synthetic fluid. I have to admit the stock trans demise was due to the wrong bracket arm for the TV cable.

 

3200 is a lot, if youre mostly street driving bring that down some. LT1 engines with bigger cams like more stall, but I'd go nuts feeling that slippage all the time. I run a 2400 Vigilante with my 398.

 

You need to keep the" lock up" function. I ran a loose 2500 and 10" 3500 converters on the street in the 80's passed everything, but a gas station. A loose converter mean you have to give it gas just to creep in gear.

 

4L80E!!

Swapped one into my car last year and I love the gear ratios in it. Controller and Converter were expensive tho