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I recently picked up a '96 with an LT-1 and an automatic and was wondering what are the most cost effective mods I can do to it? I don't want to spend a thousand dollars for a 10 horsepower gain, I'm looking for low cost mods that give the most bang for the buck. Any suggestions?
I have a 93 LT1 and here is what I did from bone stock with 2.59 gear/auto
car went 14.2@99mph bone stock
installed 2800 stall converter, 3.54 gears, modified airbox, and removed resonator and installed X-Pipe.
ran 13.2@103
had car dynoed and was 268whp at 326 torq
swapped in a custom ground cam, added 1.6RR and tuned
dynoed again 318whp 340 torque
50hp gain with cam.
cam 300
springs 340
RR 230
pushrods 140
plus gaskets.
car now runs 12.6@108
hope this helps
my best bang for buck was converter. (get a good one) $350
ps. you really wasting money on cam without converter.
Drivers school would be your absolute best bang for the buck. I used to race SCCA and any SCCA driver could out run a typical driver of a lt1 corvette on a road course in a toyota camry.
I'd gladly spend a grand to gain 100hp but not for a measly 10hp gain. Before anybody suggests nitrous, I don't want that. I don't want power that has to be refilled, I want it to always be there. Speaking of which, what about the transmission and differential? How much power can the 4l60E and Dana 36 safely handle? I don't want to exceed the power capabilities of the trans and diff and I don't want to spend buku bucks upgrading them to handle more power. I just want the car to have a little more oomph than what it has right now without going broke doing it, that's all.
you are right in not wanting nitrous.
i had it and its annoyingly inconsisent.
whats most annoying is you make more power on a full vs empty bottle - even if using a bottle heater to raise the pressure to spray at the same psi.
(this is tough for internet geniuses to understand)
apparently the ratio of liquid to gaseous nitrous changes when the bottle is full vs empty and this had an effect on the punch.
I have an LT4 six speed car. So it is same as LT1 right?
i have been thinking of head work/cam, 383 conversion, and long tube headers. Wondering what that might put out? And how long the trans and rearend will last?
Try some good High Test gas like Mobil for a year and you will see a large difference!
LT1's should already be running hi test gas. it's whats recommended. the fact that you say Mobil makes no difference. technically gas is gas at each octane level. it all comes from the same tank.
A bit of that gain came from the diminished friction of full roller rockers AND being 1.6:1 instead of the stamped out 1.5:1 the LT1's have. Add in a roller timing chain. Then the ports themselves were different and a touch difference on the compression ratio.
If all was equal, meaning the LT1 was outfitted with the same exact cam, rocker arms, compression ratio and timing chain (etc) so it was just a comparison on the head design, I wonder what the difference would actually be.
The release of the LS may have influenced the rating of the LT4. LS had to dyno at 345. The LT4 had to have at least 330hp. The "New" engine rated lower than "old" LT engine could be a marketing problem.