TheGreek!

I recently picked up a '96 with an LT-1 and an automatic and was wondering what are the most cost effective mods I can do to it? I don't want to spend a thousand dollars for a 10 horsepower gain, I'm looking for low cost mods that give the most bang for the buck. Any suggestions?

cardo0

Bang for the buck I would say cam and a tune. There is a new lower lift cam similar to the Hot Cam that will work with the stock valve springs. I think this is it: #12677151 SP350/357 Hydraulic Roller Camshaft.

Stock LT1 heads ain't that bad but they do have wimpy valve springs. Stock LT1 exhaust manifolds while not as good as long tube headers are not as restrictive as many stock cast iron manifolds. Like you asked you don't want to spend a lot for 10hp.

STL94LT1

Don't know your budget. But, for any sizeable HP gains on the LT1 you'll need to do heads/cam.

Kevova

The biggest bang for the buck. Change rear gear especially if you have a 2.59.
the LT1 is pretty good out of the box so it 100s to gain 10 hp. Adding hundred hp can easily exceed 1k.

TheGreek!

I'd gladly spend a grand to gain 100hp but not for a measly 10hp gain. Before anybody suggests nitrous, I don't want that. I don't want power that has to be refilled, I want it to always be there. Speaking of which, what about the transmission and differential? How much power can the 4l60E and Dana 36 safely handle? I don't want to exceed the power capabilities of the trans and diff and I don't want to spend buku bucks upgrading them to handle more power. I just want the car to have a little more oomph than what it has right now without going broke doing it, that's all.

Scott442

How many miles are on the car? Some people say the best bang for the buck on a stock car is a torque converter upgrade. Based on the mileage though you may want to refresh the transmission while it is out.


Stock LT1s can wear out a 4L60E over time.

cv67

Port the stock heads, can do stock valve size even if youre looking for bang/buck

gears
converter
cam

If you want to go nuts on heads just buy aftermarket. No reason you cant get a good 30-40+cfm gain on what you have. Not hard to do. PLus the head wont get "big" to chase a #, quality of airflow suffers and youll notice it in your right foot unless you live at the track.

Long tubes are best, look for a used pair or ebay. Dougs makes a nice shorty, not quite as good as LT but still work and fit good. Plus they are smog legit.

Last LT4 I fooled around with made an honest 392rwhp with a hotcam and shorties (but did have a lot of head/intake work done)
If you got close to 340ish at the tire would you be happy? That will run 12s easy.

Kevova

Engine mods require tuning, so you might look in your area for someone to do it. PCM is reprogrammed, there is no "chip". Tuning can be the most expensive part of your build. The transmission is computer controlled and tuned to a point. If the " torque management" is retained it can take alot. The d36 is iffy with high horsepower and drag radials. If the tires spin some it will last. It tires stick high torque loads will break it eventually. A d44 which came in the 85-96 6spd cars will take more abuse. If depends on how much power you want 400 hp on a chassis dyno you should look for a d44. Depending on cam a higher stall converter and additional coolers required. Keep the lock up function, the transmission will run cooler over 50 mph and it may help mpg some. Maybe go from a hog to a pig.

Mr. Peabody

You know, if you could gain 100 HP for $1,000 on a LT1 we'd all pretty much be doing it.

Part of the issue as noted above is that a 33% increase in HP is going to require upgrades to trans & rear-end if you expect them to last.

MikieG1971

I have an LT4 six speed car. So it is same as LT1 right?
i have been thinking of head work/cam, 383 conversion, and long tube headers. Wondering what that might put out? And how long the trans and rearend will last?

RetroGuy

I remember when just installing a less restrictive cat-back exhaust along with a cold air intake was what a lot of guys did years ago when they didn't have thousands to spend on their car. Will these two simple mods actually do much for HP and/or MPG on a C4 LT1?

Kevova

LT4 is alot different than the LT1. GS registry has comparison by part. Output depends on cash input 500 dyno is possible. Drivetrain durability depends on the driver and what you're doing. A street car should be good. Race car - racing will break stuff. IDK if there's a list of what can fail and when.

1993C4LT1

A friend just did the lt4 hot cam, 1.6 roller rockers and longtube headers. Car moves out! I'm definitely doing that on my next C4.

1stVetteFinally

I'm planning on installing the LE1 heads and 226/232 .578/.574 110 LSA cam offered by Elliot Sports Works in my '93

http://elliottsportworks.com/

STL94LT1

^^^ LE has always had a good reputation for his head porting and matching camshafts. Just checked out your link, and pricing is decent also. Keep us updated on your progress.

barchetta1

Based on my research way more gains than a cam if you are 2.59 like me. Im looking for a shop to do a 3.5+

barchetta1

No.

cv67

LT4 its simple
Port the heads well, some intake work
Hot cam
Headers
Good tune
No reason you can get a reliable upper 3xx at the tire with near stock manners. Yeah theres more "advanced" cams but those lobes will last forever. To me its not worth 10 lbs of torque to beat the hell out of the valvetrain. Honest 12 sec smog legit car and not relying on mineshaft air to do it

Former members car had this done, it would have smoked my ZR1 badly.

VenkmanP

It's been said already, but the big choke point on a stock LT1 is the cam.

barchetta1

but unless you have the back for it and DIY this is not a cheap gain.

Although, really nothing is other than cleaning a completely clogged air filter.

How much would a shop charge to slide in a cam for you? I think not doing springs would be unwise.