sb66

excellent thanks everyone -

TheBlaster9001

I usually do 1 turn past finger tight on spark plugs (assuming you can get your fingers in place to spin it). They don't need to be super tight, and having to re-tap spark plug holes was no fun on our flathead tractor, no way I'd want to do it on the car.

When I went to do plugs on my 78 LTD, I found out why dialectic grease is used - a plug had corroded itself to the wire, to the point pliers wouldn't separate them. They were original plugs and wires, so no big loss, but getting the plug out was awkward using a wrench with the wire flopping all over the place.

Bfenty

Maybe I've just done them enough but the wrench isn't the hard part for me with the plugs-it's getting the danged wire off the plug without destroying it. #2 is in an especially difficult spot to reach.

sb66

rotor and cap looked fine - I did not see any signs of burns or breakage I did replace the cap and rotor - nonetheless - just to check it off the list

side note while in there I re-taped and replaced oil sending units to stop an annoying leak hopefully

any tips for the plugs and wires - it took about 10 minutes just to get a wire off on the passengers side - I have thought about removing the air pump emissions stuff maybe more so now

I have extensions and elbows the turn and twist but I cannot get any movement

any suggestions?

TheBlaster9001

Patience is the secret to getting the plugs/wires off. Get your pointer finger wrapped around the angled part of the boot on the wire, then grip hard with your thumb. You can wiggle and yank, so long as you only grab it by the boot, and you pull straight, or close to straight. Grippy gloves can help, I have several pairs of Kincos that have rubberized grips on them (similar to the rubber guys used for removing stuck can lids).

The plugs are fairly easy to remove with stock headers. Get your deep well spark plug socket, find the plug by hand, then get the socket on. If you have long arms, you can do this kneeling down. If you have short arms, you could take a tire off and get a little closer. You can also just hunch over the side of the car. Once the socket is on, grab a ratchet, and your set of extensions. Find an extension that will get you enough clearance, then take the plug out. For the drivers side, I used a 3in extension, two of the passenger side plugs needed a 2in extension, and I could only get 1/8 turn on the ratchet, but that's all it takes.

VikingTrad3r

just to clarify, are you saying that u are trying to unthread the plug from the heads and you can't break it loose?

sb66

sorry about all that - that was just I don't know what to call that - it was tight and traditional what I had was not working - so I found 3/4 open end and spark socket that and an offset 19mm box end wrench - and away we went - started on what to me was the more difficult side - passenger - driver side almost seemed too easy comparatively

sb66

I will say that the emissions air pump stuff does not help any

sb66

boy those were bigger than I thought they would be

plugs - to me anyhow - look pretty ugly

sb66

almost forgot - I forgot to take a picture to show the difference in the plugs - the rapid fire are noticeably longer to the boot side - 1/4" or more

sb66

I want to say an enormous THANK YOU to all that helped -if not for your patience with me and advice to be patient and methodical - and pointing me in the right direction each time - you guys nailed it. I just got back from a short ride to see how everything felt - that was fun - had a little pep in it's step

I realize I am not out of the woods entirely because looking at those plugs means something is not right on the inside - just not sure what and how much. I am sure I will be re-posting and asking about that soon enough


thanks again everyone

Sean

VikingTrad3r

sb66

I will give them a closer look - I did not see one initially - I'll put on my other glasses so I can see a little closer

sb66

I did not see any with evident cracks unless it is a hairline that would show up under heat and stress - if that makes any sense - the plugs were pretty wet with oil and the electrodes (center?). were almost non-existent - very skinny and small - could not speculate if they were gapped correctly or not
compared with what I just put in pretty big difference. - I will watch over the next few days of driving if it starts up again - then I will need to look at that control module you spoke of-

from the looks though there will need to be some internal work done - question is how soon before I need to?

TheBlaster9001

Plugs can wear out. Heck, those could have been used plugs for all we know. My trouble plug was fouled, but I don't think anything is wrong with the car - the plug just wore out.

I'm glad that we solved the rough running!

VikingTrad3r

Bfenty

This sounds exactly like the issue I'm having-I'm getting oil into the cylinders (my plugs look JUST LIKE yours). Every couple thousand miles I've had to change plugs because they eventually foul and lead to running like crap. I'm also losing oil at about a quart per 500 miles. You may want to keep an eye on your oil level. I'm thinking it's bad valves seals but haven't had a chance to do the job yet. Could also be gaskets someplace. Anyway, all that to say it seems like your issue is nearly identical so those are things to start with.

sb66

thanks - valve stem seals was what I was thinking as well - but you know when you open it up you never know what you are going to find - and then you also may think what else can I afford to do while you're in there . . . .

thanks again everyone!

sumrtoy

Going with a couple others here. Worked yesterday and not today? Not likely compression/valves/ugly bad stuff. Sounds like fuel. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed? Could be a $20 problem.