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I bought mine from Summit Racing, their brand part number SUM-312635 . I haven't installed it yet but should be the right one. About $63. Mine is an 88 but shows the same for 91.
Does it have the boss on top for the air tubing mount?
Not going to use it for air pump tubing but looked like it might be useful for a brace for pump eliminator bracket.
Ordered the pump recommended along with upper ,lower, TB intake hoses and idlers pulleys. 1 for tensioner and one for air pump eliminator bracket. Have prints for a bracket though not fond of them and will see if I can come up with something cleaner. Was not fond of the spacer hose for the pump ut oh well plenty of gasket cement between that and the pump should make sure it is not a leak unless it eliminates the ridge for the hose to seal on.
Ordered the pump recommended along with upper ,lower, TB intake hoses and idlers pulleys. 1 for tensioner and one for air pump eliminator bracket. Have prints for a bracket though not fond of them and will see if I can come up with something cleaner. Was not fond of the spacer hose for the pump ut oh well plenty of gasket cement between that and the pump should make sure it is not a leak unless it eliminates the ridge for the hose to seal on.
Be sure to measure the height of the boss on the pass. side of the new pump to make sure it is the same height of your old pump. The a/c mounting bracket is fragile, and will crack if stressed. You do not want to try to find a new one.
Ok what are the inner secrets for pulling the air tube off the air pump? The bottom one seems pretty blind. Also to pull water pump I am assuming I need to disconnect A/C pump and move to the side. Or no?
Ok what are the inner secrets for pulling the air tube off the air pump? The bottom one seems pretty blind. Also to pull water pump I am assuming I need to disconnect A/C pump and move to the side. Or no?
I would unbolt the 90 from the pump.
I believe you need to push the A/C pump out of the way. IDK how else you can get it's bracket off the WP.
I believe you need to push the A/C pump out of the way. IDK how else you can get it's bracket off the WP.
getting the 90 off the air pump is the problem. 2 I believe 13 mm bolts, top one is easy and even with a large collections of wrenches sockets and extensions / universals can't seem to get a bite on the bottom one across from the upper radiator hose.
What is the solution for the molded heater hoses? I found some at a Corvette place but 2 of them were close to $100 and still a couple others to go. Today is drain water and hoses off and hopefully get the air pump stuff off for good. Does plain straight heater hose work with a little rerouting? It seems hard to believe GM would have gone to all that trouble for nothing making molded hoses.
They did it for aesthetic reasons. The TPI was, I think, the second motor that GM brought in "design" to help stylize under the hood. Hence, the ribbed valve covers plenum and fuel rails, all the tidy wiring, vacuum lines and hoses...and the all important; distributor cover!
I'm sure that straight hose, will work fine, with a little effort and thought.
They did it for aesthetic reasons. The TPI was, I think, the second motor that GM brought in "design" to help stylize under the hood. Hence, the ribbed valve covers plenum and fuel rails, all the tidy wiring, vacuum lines and hoses...and the all important; distributor cover!
I'm sure that straight hose, will work fine, with a little effort and thought.
Pretty much what I thought.
Last edited by ddahlgren; Jul 8, 2018 at 05:22 PM.
Anyone know the heater hose sizes for the ones between heater and TB and heater and water pump? Going to just go with straight hose and want to do this in one shot pump hoses and eliminate air pump. Have the pump upper and lower hoses new tensioner pulley pulley for air pump eliminator stock engine pulleys to replace the under drive parts and anti-freeze. Heater hoses will make it a non stop thrash with some luck. Have someoe to help so the other reason to do it non stop while they are here. Will get o-rings for fuel lines in case they have to come off..
There are 2 things I am unsure of. Will the fuel run out of the lines with 1/2 tank of gas and the hose between the surge tank and heater core. I found the ones for the oil cooler short but hard to do in a short distance with regular hose the loner one with the tee off the heater hose to metal tube seems easy enough with regular hose. The ones that go between surge tank and and radiator an overflow tank will be their own challenge..
Working away on project water pump, when partially disabled things go a lot slower sad to say. While there is no water in engine there is a sender between last 2 cylinders on pass side. Is this for fan on as I thought fan was controlled by ECM. If yes seems like a good time to change for 195 to 200 on temp and gain a little more time in traffic before it gets good and warm. Or just for gauge? At some point need to belly up for programming stuff so can make changes on my own.
Sender from post 35 seems to be for gauge and that works just fine. Last thing not solved, the hose from expansion tank to heater core. Currently has a molded 90 degree bend that seems too tight for plain heater hose. Is this a browse the rack at the parts store and see if there is another hose I can cut that section out of.
last but not that important is there much of an upside to removing hoses from throttle body and have no water going through it? If yes assume I need a 90 degree fitting for intake manifold so heater hose does not kink there.
Working away on project water pump, when partially disabled things go a lot slower sad to say. While there is no water in engine there is a sender between last 2 cylinders on pass side. Is this for fan on as I thought fan was controlled by ECM. If yes seems like a good time to change for 195 to 200 on temp and gain a little more time in traffic before it gets good and warm. Or just for gauge? At some point need to belly up for programming stuff so can make changes on my own.
at autozone that part is called the the coolant temp switch and is supposed to be one blade. This switch was not working in my car and the symptom was that the analog gauge would stay on zero.. but the digital readout reads fine and the fans will come on at the appropriate temperature so that leads me to believe that the sensor on the water pump itself is the digital or ECM signal. I ordered the sensor / switch from RockAuto didn't work went to AutoZone and bought the switch and it did.
Sender from post 35 seems to be for gauge and that works just fine. Last thing not solved, the hose from expansion tank to heater core. Currently has a molded 90 degree bend that seems too tight for plain heater hose. Is this a browse the rack at the parts store and see if there is another hose I can cut that section out of.
last but not that important is there much of an upside to removing hoses from throttle body and have no water going through it? If yes assume I need a 90 degree fitting for intake manifold so heater hose does not kink there.
all you need is an inline coupler to bypass the TB.. jus connect the 2 hoses that are going to the TB together. I do this is all my cars.. doesent make a huge difference but I like it.
Last edited by AgentEran; Jul 15, 2018 at 04:49 PM.
I bought mine from Summit Racing, their brand part number SUM-312635 . I haven't installed it yet but should be the right one. About $63. Mine is an 88 but shows the same for 91.
I like that Summit WP! Looks well made and reviews are all good. I don't need a WP but if so, this will be my got to part.