When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Again, IGNORE the analog engine temperature gauge and also IGNORE the needle that is on this gauge. The scale on this gauge is NOT LINEAR and the only numbers on it are 185 and 260, so it will send you places you don't need to go. Change the digital display to read COOL *F. This is a MUCH more accurate reading of your coolant temperature.
The expansion tank was a little low. I added coolant about half way. I opened up the bleeder for a few seconds with the ign off. Then I opened it for a few secs during idle and took it for a drive. It's seems like no more air in the system as the temp didnt climb up like it did yesterday. I looked at the digital gauge and yes it's a little off from the analog gauge. This is where the temp needle is always at when I'm driving.
Originally Posted by rjacobs
BTW this is the LONGEST coolant change in history...
Its been going on since July LOL....
lol, yes I know it's been since July since I posted this. Been so busy with work and other things and activities going on and always keep on pushing this to the side. But now I'm finally done with the coolant flush!
Last edited by turbobuick33; 10-23-2018 at 06:19 PM.
The expansion tank was a little low. I added coolant about half way. I opened up the bleeder for a few seconds with the ign off. Then I opened it for a few secs during idle and took it for a drive. It's seems like no more air in the system as the temp didnt climb up like it did yesterday. I looked at the digital gauge and yes it's a little off from the analog gauge. This is where the temp needle is always at when I'm driving.
lol, yes I know it's been since July since I posted this. Been so busy with work and other things and activities going on and always keep on pushing this to the side. But now I'm finally done with the coolant flush!
Did you mention that your car is a ZR-1? I didn't see it anywhere but maybe missed it...
I wonder how much of this thread is based on LT1/LT4 cooling systems. I don't know much about the LT5 (ZR-1) cooling system but it might make a difference in the response information. I'm assuming this is your car with the 6400 RPM redline. Anyway, glad you finally got it done and running right!
Did you mention that your car is a ZR-1? I didn't see it anywhere but maybe missed it...
I wonder how much of this thread is based on LT1/LT4 cooling systems. I don't know much about the LT5 (ZR-1) cooling system but it might make a difference in the response information. I'm assuming this is your car with the 6400 RPM redline. Anyway, glad you finally got it done and running right!
his car is NOT a ZR1/LT5...
Its a 96 LT4, which has a higher redline than the LT1.
I use the Lisle funnel on all my vehicles. You replace the radiator cap with the funnel and fill as normal. Start the car and the air bubbles out the funnel. It also allows for expansion. When done you put the plug in remove the funnel from the adapter and put the funnel in the overflow tank. Pull the plug and the extra coolant flows into the tank.
Might not be needed with a C4 as it has the radiator cap at the highest point in the system. But you see the air come out. I also have a couple of cars with low radiators and it really helps with those.
Last edited by belairbrian; 10-23-2018 at 09:32 PM.
Coolant exchange! Got lucky! Water pump started to leak on my 96. Power steering felt hard to turn. Opened the hood and saw a line of water on the hood. I was close to home. Ordered a new water pump. I had been wanting to do plugs and wires as well. I pulled the thermostat housing using my shop vac to recover and antifreeze. Then I used my Shop Vacuum to suck all the coolant out of the engine. Drained the Radiator. Removed the water pump. Replaced the Plug wires. A job in it self. Changed the plugs. Installed a new water pump and refilled the system with Dex Cool. It was original. 54,00 miles. I will do it more often now. Whole job took me 16 hours. Plugs were original, Replaced with 41-940 s. Coolant that came out was pretty clean. Felt great on the road. Big power difference.
I am going to suggest that at the time of replacing the coolant that you should replace the Thermostat and the Radiator Cap with everything else you are doing. No reason to have to open the system back up to get a thermostat replaced when it fails. Note that I said "When" and not "IF" as thermostats do fail all the time. That is one experience you don't need to deal with.
One thing that we see way too often is more than 50% anti-freeze and that might be necessary for Illinois but here in Virginia I only use 30% anti-freeze and 70% distilled water.
The entire overflow system incorporated into our cooling systems is an "active component". The hoses need to be checked and the fluid level kept at least at minimum level in the overflow bottle. If you have an older radiator cap then your spring inside of it might have gotten off calibration over a bunch of years of usage. If the system is not able to overflow and refill as it cools down you will get air into your cooling system. Nothing should leak onto the ground, if it is dripping coolant then you have a problem. The entire cooling system is a "closed" system. I see people driving around with empty overflow bottles and it is amazing how few people understand the way the cooling system is supposed to work.
After replacing the Thermostat, Coolant and the Radiator cap I would fill the radiator up to hold as much as it can fit and put the radiator cap on it. Then fill the Overflow bottle to the minimum level. Start the engine and let it idle for a while until the engine is up to normal operating temperature. If applicable "Open bleeders to release any trapped air" and then shut off the engine and let it cool normally. As the engine heats up it should push ALL excess coolant to the overflow container. When cooling down it should be able to suck the coolant back into the radiator bringing it back to the same spot it started at. Every time the Corvette is used the cooling system should cycle properly. If you have an empty overflow you will get air into the system after it blows out the excess coolant.
10-23-2018, 01:12 PM
