I have a 1993 40th anniv. that keeps shutting off. I took off the battery ground cable cleaned it up and reinstalled. I only stops when the engine is hot. If you can help please do. thanks

 

Probably not your issue but here goes. Years ago had a fuel pump pushrod worn just enough to do what you describe. First thing you need to determine if it's a fuel or electrical issue.

 

You might remove both batt leads and also freshen up the + lead.

Does it get hot enough to stall just idling up while parked?

 

I have done both battery leads. If I am on the highway it does not stall, it is just when I am in town. Yesterday I drove about 100 miles in the morning to my boys house, we went to the store shortly after I got there and when we came out it would not start. I let it cool down for about an hour then it started right up, drove about a mile and it stalled again. waited for it to cool down the headed home, ran good all the way. I did pick up a DTC32 (EGR) code on the way home.

 

Would that worn pushrod show on a fuel pressure check?

 

If the warm Pump cannot supply sufficient flow it should show up as insufficient pressure when it won't start. Also, it will show "normal" FP so you will know if it's too low.

 

Nope. That would be advanced diagnostics. Put your pressure gauge on see whats up.

 

May be the pick-up coil in the distributor is bad. Had that happen when I was working as a mechanic. Once the engine heated up, it created an open in the coil. Once it cooled off, it would re-start.

 

Uh, there are no fuel pump pushrods on a 93 C4. In fact there is no fuel pump pushrods on any stock C4 as they all have electric fuel pumps!

 

When an ignition module goes out, the classic example is the car dying when hot. Although not always a fan of parts swapping, you might want to change out the ignition module. It's a really easy thing to do on your car.

 

Put a new distributor in the car 3 years ago. Probably had less than 20K on it. Is there anyway to check that?

 

I will try that, thanks.

 

Haven't really let it idle that long. However, sunday I drove about 1.5 mi, while the car was hot, and parked to go into store and when I came out it wouldn"t start until it was cooled down.

 

Maybe you can repeat that kind of short drive ending at home so you can check fuel pressure during no start.

 

Rebuilt distributors are famous for using cheap parts. 20K is probably double the miles they promise.

 

Sounds like a heat soak problem like RalfKramden noted in his reply. The coils in a couple of my injectors failed the same way.

 

My sentiments exactly.

Was a tech for over 35 years. Always had "known good parts" to swap in for troubleshooting purposes. In this case, an Ignition Control Module (ICM) is a perfect example. A common symptom of a bad ICM is that when it heats up it dies. Same for many electronic components. An ICM at RockAuto prices at $12 and up... and it's an easy swap. To drive home the ICM heat issue, they sell, for good reason, ICM Heatsinks for GM ICM's starting at around $22 bucks. I've been a tech of many disciplines and have worked on electronics, mechanical, and electro-mechanical devices going back to the turn of the century, and some things never change. In my early days of learning, an experienced tech once told me, "when troubleshooting, think Lazy". He just meant to do the simplest things first.

I had a couple of similar problems such as the one presented here on a '91 Sunbird. 1st time it turned out to be a cheap Crankshaft Sensor. 2nd time it turned out to be a Fusible Link. The link didn't blow completely and was hardly discolored. But the bad connection inside would heat up and then separate at the solder joint. I didn't discover that myself. That little tidbit was passed on to me by another tech, and of course, it was true. After that, I included a full set of fusible links in my own personal roadside assistance kit.

 

I just changed out the ICM will take it for a drive and see what happens.

 

Not a rebuild.