Update: I did more research online and figured out how to get the passenger door to unlock and lock while in passive mode, so thats figured out. After I programmed that, the drivers door still wasn’t unlocking. Then I used a proceedure I read about online to disable and reinable the security system alltogether by walking up to the car and then pressing the door button on the remote and waiting for the door locks to cycle. Not sure if I was able to turn the system off and back on again or not as I cycled it a few times, but when I was finished I checked things again and the drivers door opened in passive mode three times in a row. I need more time to know for sure if it’s now working, but right now I am optomistic.
feel free to chime in if what I did makes sense to you or not, or if you have any other knowledge that might be helpful.

thanks... so far today my drivers and passenger doors are unlocking perfectly. So, yes... before as I walked up on the car I could absolutely hear the door locks click, but they were still locked when I reached for the handle prompting me to insert the key in the drivers door, turn left, then right to unlock. If I just turn to the right without turning left first, it wouldn’t unlock the door. Strange.
anyway... last evening while standing outside of the car next to the drivers door, I pressed the door button on the remote and held it down for like 2-3 seconds and would hear, “click, click” from the locks. Not sure if anything changed after that because I didn’t really test the system after. Prior to doing this I put the key in the ignition, but didn’t turn the key at all, pressed the door button on the remote for 2-3 seconds and hear the same “click, click” from the locks just like I heard when standing outside the car with no key in the ignition.
at this point I am not really sure what I did, but I accomplished both objectives, 1. Have the passenger door automatically open along with the drivers door and 2. Fix the unlock of the drivers door alltogether.
right now it all works, so I am just observing..... once I am convinced that it is actually working correctly, I may play around with the system to see how to turn it off and on etc... would be nice to disable it while I am working on the car.

any thought?

okay thanks... so before the car would unlock only the drivers door, so to open the passenger door I had to press the door button on the remote ro ulolock it. This seems like a design flaw since pressing the door button on the remote too long will turn the system off even if all you were trying to do was unlock the passenger door. Now that both doors unlock passively, I will have no reason to use the remote at all, unless I need to pop the hatch.

It workd for me all day today... I think that the system actually has three options in programming. 1. Unlock just the drivers door. 2. Unlock both doors, and 3. Don’t unlock either door as this is what it was dooing to me. Physically everything is fine, so it must be either a glitch or a programming option.

Okay, so today the drivers door won’t unlock all the time, about 25%, it's intermittent. I understand the two settings and agree and have sucesfully programmed the system to always unlock the passenger door. Today I was able to turn the system on and off with the remote button, but each time I put it in passive mode, when it unlocks, 75% of the time only the passenger door unlocks. Seems that if I let it arm and lock and turn back really fast, the drivers door will unlock, but if I walk away and wait 10 seconds or more before walking back to the car, it unlocks, but most of the time the drivers door is still locked, so frustrating.

Just to provide more detail... the drivers door sounds like it’s unlocked everytime, the only way to tell is to grab the handle and check to see. It doesn’t sound different at all and the click is strong and solid.
anyone have any ideas? Maybe the rod in the door is just out of adjustment a little of something? But yesterday it worked all day just fine. Just very confused here.

Yes, you understand 100% correctly. I don’t think it’s the door pin because if you sit in the car, if the pin was the issue, leaning on the door would probably light the door ajar light on the dash, which it does not do, but I’ll check it again. I have a new door latch and lock motor, so I will tear down the door and replace both and see what happens. I bought a new latch because the plastic on the original latch has come apart and is basically not there anymore providing a metal on metal sound when closing the door. Not anything horrible, but I am a perfectionaist. I just changed out the hatch latch for the same reason, which made a huge difference. Before replacing it, it sounded like my rear window was about to break everytime I poped the hatch, now it’s like butter again the way it should be. I am empowered now since yesterday I was able to pull apart the passenger door and replace the power window motor in about 2 hours. Working on these cars isn’t that difficult if you take your time and stay organized.