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This is so weird. I was enjoying a drive through the Redwoods, and my DIC battery light popped on. I didn't think anything of it at first, because I'd noticed it flickering at times before, like right after starting the car.
However, I soon began to realize my battery was actually low. Windows were slow to go up and down, locks were especially sticky, and my dash started dimming.
My battery is brand new, and my alternator is fairly new, so I couldn't figure out why I'd be having problems.
Once I parked it, I didn't even try to start it, because I knew it wouldn't crank. We took my dad's truck into town from our campsite to get some jumper cables to charge it with the truck's alternator. The cables had a voltage reader, which I was surprised to show 12.3v on my battery. Just for kicks, I tried to start my car, and it fired right up, without cranking even slightly slowly. However, battery voltage didn't jump up when it started, which seemed abnormal.
I'm really confused what's wrong, and I gotta make a 6hr drive home tomorrow morning, so I'd love any help you guys could give!
This is so weird. I was enjoying a drive through the Redwoods, and my DIC battery light popped on. I didn't think anything of it at first, because I'd noticed it flickering at times before, like right after starting the car.
However, I soon began to realize my battery was actually low. Windows were slow to go up and down, locks were especially sticky, and my dash started dimming.
My battery is brand new, and my alternator is fairly new, so I couldn't figure out why I'd be having problems.
Once I parked it, I didn't even try to start it, because I knew it wouldn't crank. We took my dad's truck into town from our campsite to get some jumper cables to charge it with the truck's alternator. The cables had a voltage reader, which I was surprised to show 12.3v on my battery. Just for kicks, I tried to start my car, and it fired right up, without cranking even slightly slowly. However, battery voltage didn't jump up when it started, which seemed abnormal.
I'm really confused what's wrong, and I gotta make a 6hr drive home tomorrow morning, so I'd love any help you guys could give!
I had a similar experience with my car that ended up being poor terminal contact to the battery. These cars seem to be finicky when it comes to consistent and clean voltage. Also, Although the battery/alternator may be newer, the only real way to be sure everything is copacetic is to get the system tested. Most auto stores do it for free. I was also told by another C4 owner that in the summer -- because these cars run in the 200+ range stock, especially while not moving -- he had an intermittent issue that seemed to be related to higher engine bay temperatures.
The easiest way to confirm the dash reading is to turn on as much as possible and check the voltage at the battery. If it isn't charging according to the dash then bat voltage will be under 13. If you're seeing something above 13 with everything on, you have a connection issue between the dash and battery. Imo I use the dash in mine as a reference because it reads quite a bit lower than the actual battery voltage. It isn't uncommon for a weak alternator to be okay with nothing on then when a load is added to just nosedive. I've had brand new alternators be crap out of the box so now I rebuild my own when possible.
Got it! Tried the battery terminals, but they were already tight, so I set out heading south in hopes that my battery would last me long enough. Not long at all after, my battery light came on, and I began to notice the effects of low battery (even my turn signals we're blinking slowly). Took it to an O'Reilly, and the alternator tested bad. Swapped it out in the parking lot, and I'm good to go!
Scratch that. Made it a couple hours down the road, and my voltage dropped like a rock. Tach is going crazy, blinkers are slow, and "service ABS" is illuminated. Just pulled into O'Reilly for another alternator check.
Any thoughts, guys?
Figured it out. The alternator battery wire was a bit damaged near the connector on the end, which was causing it to get very hot, which in turn cooked the alternator. Cut off the tip, added a new eye, and problem solved. What a pain.
Last edited by C4ProjectCar; Aug 6, 2018 at 02:05 AM.
Figured it out. The alternator battery wire was a bit damaged near the connector on the end, which was causing it to get very hot, which in turn cooked the alternator. Cut off the tip, added a new eye, and problem solved. What a pain.
If you're talking about the ballast wire that hooks onto the 'bat' connector on the alternator, just went though that one the other month. I had my 86 apart twice trying to track down the problem. It even checked out OK with an ohm meter, very perplexing.
Just saw this today, sorry didn't pass this along sooner.