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From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by Went
Jim's already purchased the stroker crank, 6" forged rods, pistons, rings, cam, heads etc.
So if you already have pistons you can only use blocks with enough cylinder thicness to fit those pistons. You didn't post thier size so we don't know your requirement.
As far as 2 bolt block strength if you don't expect installing tight fitting main studs will be strong enough then as mentioned you can have a 2 bolt block converted to a 4 bolt block with "splayed" main caps which is considered stronger than stock "straight" 4 bolt main caps/block. But the conversion is not cheap.
I have seen Gen I engine blocks offered for nearly pocket change on Craigslist and often sbc blocks are given away for free by friends or word of mouth. Myself ihave 4 standard bore blocks now and would only pick up another 400 block for a token price. I recommend just use some patience and keep looking for the block you want - Craigslist, forum parts for sale, local salvage yard, local mechanics.
I talked with Jim again today. I've decided to go with a 2-bolt block with ARP studs. I can "sleep" at night with that. My AFR heads showed up and Jim sent me pictures. Very nice...
Seasoned vs new is debatable. Ill take new any day...to me seasoned says "old and used up" none of us are endurance racing.
Whatever fits the budget I suppose...got tired of sinking $ into older blocks only to find some hack machined it improperly or skipped over lifterbores and that new engine makes noise.
New blocks get seasoned, if you are hardcore/professional enough.
Try looking around for a real rough beater C4 with an L98, you'd be surprised at what you might get for $600-800 including a good rebuildable block. Plus you can part the rest out and make some money back (hopefully)