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Car has a new battery as of January 2018. Duralast gold.
So on a cold start, voltage will read 14.5-14.7 volts. That seems good to me. But when the engine is warm and the AC is on, I have seen the voltage go as low as 12.6-12.4 at a stop light. Only goes that low stopped in drive. This is all via the DIC.
93 lt1
Cold start seems good to me. The 12.4 is still a fully charged battery. At a stop light, both fans running, foot on brake (lights),radio probably playing, maybe a turn signal on.... plus the addition of the A/C compressor drag... I think youre ok.
Thanks guys. Reason why I am concerned is because with AC on, and the voltage goes to 12.4 or 12.6, the cooling fans are less noisy and the signal light blinks slower.
Thanks guys. Reason why I am concerned is because with AC on, and the voltage goes to 12.4 or 12.6, the cooling fans are less noisy and the signal light blinks slower.
Yeah that does not sounds right.
Check it with an actual voltmeter.
Gonna take me a while decipher that^. But thank you. I know the 4 pin connector is under the alternator. Is there a way to determine if the alternator itself is bad?
Also, do I run those tests with the car running?
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; Aug 9, 2018 at 05:38 PM.
A very basic test is to turn every accessory on... every one... Take a volt meter and check the voltage at the battery terminals. Should be 14.4 to 14.7 If its more than a volt under that, then your alternator is probably not outputting what it should be.
. I would imagine a fully warmed up engine would be a better way to test..... When its cold there will be a voltage spike from the demand that was just placed on the battery to start the engine... without any-accessories on, it should very soon settle down to 13.4 to 13.7 ish...
So remember also, that you need to have all the basics covered as well..... all connections are tight, both pos and neg cables (at the starter also) are tight, clean and free of corrosion. You may get lucky and find that its a loose or dirty battery cable connection...
Another thing you can do is just remove the alternator and take it to an Autozone or the like and have them test it out....
The wire from the alternator to the battery is very light gauge compared to the amps involved. I do not see any way it can pass 130 amps without considerable voltage drop.
The wire from the alternator to the battery is very light gauge compared to the amps involved. I do not see any way it can pass 130 amps without considerable voltage drop.
I don't get what you are saying. Are you saying my voltage drop is "within spec"?
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; Aug 10, 2018 at 10:43 AM.
I don't get what you are saying. Are you saying my voltage drop is "within spec"?
Don't worry about it.
Hes not saying something important as it relates to your particular issue.
Go do what 81c3 said to do and report back what the voltage is.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Aug 10, 2018 at 05:58 PM.
I don't get what you are saying. Are you saying my voltage drop is "within spec"?
I am saying that the gauge of the wire and distance run will be hard pressed to supply the current needed at 13.7 volts. On a '91 it does not look much larger than 10 gauge and no way to pass the current from 2 fan motors a/c clutch and blower motor plus no doubt radio. Just add the loads up along with current capacity of the wire. The other thing is to put a tach on the engine and see if it is really at 650 to 700 rpm as C4 tachs are notorious for reading wrong and usually high.
From: Las Vegas - Just stop perpetuating myths please.
Originally Posted by 1993C4LT1
Car has a new battery as of January 2018. Duralast gold.
So on a cold start, voltage will read 14.5-14.7 volts. That seems good to me. But when the engine is warm and the AC is on, I have seen the voltage go as low as 12.6-12.4 at a stop light. Only goes that low stopped in drive. This is all via the DIC.
93 lt1
Voltage out of spec high or low should pull a Code 16. And this should disable all solenoid actuators controlled by the ECM to prevent over voltage from overheating the solenoids (it doesn't matter voltage high or low). I think wouldn't be able to drive it much like that if that Code 16 was set.
So this is weird. I had my mom sit in the car with the car in gear, idling all accessories on. LCD was showing 12.6v but my multi meter was saying 12.09v. Told her to put it back in Park, and the LCD showed 13.6. Looked at my meter and it was showing the same. Either way, I have to test it more to see if the meter gives a consistent 12.09v reading. Right before I started to get the ramps out(to get under the car) it started storming.