C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Blend door module

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Old 08-20-2018, 06:06 AM
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kenmohr
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Default Blend door module

Has anyone replaced or repaired a blend door module on an 89 or 88 vette? Was it difficult and what do you need to remove to get to it? Is there a way to check if it is the module or programmer.
Old 08-20-2018, 11:39 AM
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jv9999
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The actuator is up by the brake pedal. There are two resistors that typically fail, they will be burned as they were under-rated at 2W and control the blend door. Look for a box with a bunch of vacuum lines on a connector. Be aware that there is a small nut holding that connector on, it's hard to see in the middle of the hoses. It's a fun place to get to. I'd take the driver seat out. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it is common.
Old 08-20-2018, 01:56 PM
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I have night mares when blend doors are mentioned, no heat but no defrost . Driving with hand out of window trying to scrape windshiels and steer and shift. Trade it in . Lease a new one every thing today is junk
Old 08-20-2018, 08:18 PM
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I have removed my programmer on my 88 and also had to fix the plastic clip that attaches to the blend door motor that moves the door inside the heater box located under the hood on the firewall on the passenger side. Had my programmer repaired by batee.com.

Here it is.





blend door

Last edited by HAD2HAV2; 08-20-2018 at 08:19 PM.
Old 08-21-2018, 06:32 AM
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kenmohr
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Originally Posted by HAD2HAV2
I have removed my programmer on my 88 and also had to fix the plastic clip that attaches to the blend door motor that moves the door inside the heater box located under the hood on the firewall on the passenger side. Had my programmer repaired by batee.com.

Here it is.




blend door

Also what all do I need to remove to expose it.
Old 08-21-2018, 06:50 PM
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You will need a FSM to check the Programmer. My blend door motor worked when I installed the re-built programmer. The programmer is located above the gas pedal and held on by a single 7mm screw at the bottom. The top of the programmer as 2 tangs that slide into an adaptor made into the firewall. Like jv9999 said there is a silicone junction that holds all the hoses that go to different locations where you want the air to come out. It is held on by a press nut. It’s hard to see because the programmer will only lower so far. I took small needle nose pliers and carefully twisted it off. You can add a regular nut when you put things back together. See the attached pics to see what you will be working with.
Old 08-22-2018, 06:00 AM
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Originally Posted by HAD2HAV2
You will need a FSM to check the Programmer. My blend door motor worked when I installed the re-built programmer. The programmer is located above the gas pedal and held on by a single 7mm screw at the bottom. The top of the programmer as 2 tangs that slide into an adaptor made into the firewall. Like jv9999 said there is a silicone junction that holds all the hoses that go to different locations where you want the air to come out. It is held on by a press nut. It’s hard to see because the programmer will only lower so far. I took small needle nose pliers and carefully twisted it off. You can add a regular nut when you put things back together. See the attached pics to see what you will be working with.
I do have complete control of all vents which makes me think the programmer is working. As a matter of fact the only thing that doesn't work is the blend door. I have a factory manual but can't find a test procedure to check the blend door motor. The programmer I am referring to is the control head.

I do believe this is my problem.
Old 08-22-2018, 10:33 AM
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I was able to use a 9v battery to test one. There's a 3 prong circuit board and 2 prong circuit board where the wires clip. I put the positive to the middle trace of the 3 and the negative to the right of it and it activated the motor.
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Old 08-23-2018, 11:19 AM
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Brian81CJ
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This is great info... I'm currently having a problem where only hot air comes out. So based on some of the replies, looks like my problem may be the blend door as well. I already bought the module repair kit from Batee so before I do that, I should check the blend door.
Is the blend door in the above pictures on the driver or passenger side?

Thanks!!
Old 08-23-2018, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian81CJ
This is great info... I'm currently having a problem where only hot air comes out. So based on some of the replies, looks like my problem may be the blend door as well. I already bought the module repair kit from Batee so before I do that, I should check the blend door.
Is the blend door in the above pictures on the driver or passenger side?

Thanks!!
Passenger.
Old 08-23-2018, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by HAD2HAV2
Passenger.
Thank you!
Old 08-23-2018, 11:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian81CJ

Thank you!
The motor is held on by 2 - 7mm screws. There should be a white plastic clip that attaches to the armature of the motor. Handle the plastic with care.
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Old 08-24-2018, 04:45 AM
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Originally Posted by HAD2HAV2
Passenger.
Is it correct that you can access it by removing the knee (carpet) pad and nothing else?
Old 08-24-2018, 04:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian81CJ
This is great info... I'm currently having a problem where only hot air comes out. So based on some of the replies, looks like my problem may be the blend door as well. I already bought the module repair kit from Batee so before I do that, I should check the blend door.
Is the blend door in the above pictures on the driver or passenger side?

Thanks!!
Let me know how you access it and how it works out. I know the temp control controls it and believe my main is OK as everything else does what it supposed to do.
Old 08-24-2018, 06:33 AM
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Originally Posted by kenmohr
Let me know how you access it and how it works out. I know the temp control controls it and believe my main is OK as everything else does what it supposed to do.
I'm hoping to get into it this weekend and will let you know. I hope I don't have to pull that carpeted bolster down, I couldn't get that thing off when I was replacing the carpet earlier this year and ended up replacing it in the car...

-Brian

Last edited by Brian81CJ; 08-24-2018 at 06:33 AM.
Old 08-24-2018, 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Brian81CJ
I'm hoping to get into it this weekend and will let you know. I hope I don't have to pull that carpeted bolster down, I couldn't get that thing off when I was replacing the carpet earlier this year and ended up replacing it in the car...

-Brian
The knee carpet has to come off. Use a mirror and light to locate the motor. I replaced my bread box years ago so I pulled the top dash also so I didn't have to work upside down. Removing the dash to replace the broken door clip made this job easier.


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Old 08-25-2018, 06:11 AM
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Originally Posted by HAD2HAV2
The knee carpet has to come off. Use a mirror and light to locate the motor. I replaced my bread box years ago so I pulled the top dash also so I didn't have to work upside down. Removing the dash to replace the broken door clip made this job easier.
I thought the knee pad removal would expose the part totally. So that is not true then.
Old 08-25-2018, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by kenmohr
I thought the knee pad removal would expose the part totally. So that is not true then.
Nope. You're going to half to look up. It's black and so is the heat/cold box. Look to the left of center you'll see it.

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